Playstation SCPH-1002 is the only one that's worthy of doing any modifications, just to be clear 😉
A little heads up on my precious.
I've replaced all of the stock capacitors, diodes and I've separated AVDD and DVDD of AKM DAC with TL431 shunt regulator with 27mA CCS.
As you can see, I've also replaced stock capacitors with Sanyo Oscon and I've improved local decoupling of DAC. Output stage is basically the same as Micks but I've added 220R resistor between DAC and output capacitor.
Greetings from Croatia
A little heads up on my precious.
I've replaced all of the stock capacitors, diodes and I've separated AVDD and DVDD of AKM DAC with TL431 shunt regulator with 27mA CCS.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
As you can see, I've also replaced stock capacitors with Sanyo Oscon and I've improved local decoupling of DAC. Output stage is basically the same as Micks but I've added 220R resistor between DAC and output capacitor.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Greetings from Croatia
HELP!!
Hi guys,
I just bought an SCPH-1001 and after taking it apart, i realized it has the AKM4310VM DAC inside. I thought the 1001 was suppose to have the AKM4309AVM in it?? Any thoughts? Is the 4310 DAC any better than the 4309? I know that they used the 4310 primarily with the SCPH-1000. Any help would be great, I'm really confused about this......i tried doing some research on the differences between the two but didn't come up with anything at all.
Hi guys,
I just bought an SCPH-1001 and after taking it apart, i realized it has the AKM4310VM DAC inside. I thought the 1001 was suppose to have the AKM4309AVM in it?? Any thoughts? Is the 4310 DAC any better than the 4309? I know that they used the 4310 primarily with the SCPH-1000. Any help would be great, I'm really confused about this......i tried doing some research on the differences between the two but didn't come up with anything at all.
Don't feel cheated.
BNWaddict: AFAIK the SCHP 1000/1001/1002/1003 are essentially the same thing, just for different markets (utilizing different video standards and power supply input voltages). I'm willing to accept that I'm wrong....
Blink: beautifully built. I suspect it sounds outstanding! I wonder if you've tried any dampening material since the photos were taken?
The power supplies that these things use is not great, but could be worse. I "discovered" by accident with some devices that dropping the supply voltage slightly can alter the sound dramatically. The noise floor disappears. Then use a small amplifier or transformer to step up the voltage. As long as the transformers are shielded with mu-metal (magentic and electric shielding) then there should be no problem. Mu-metal is pretty expensive, but so little would be required, it would be worth it. It is available as a foil. I think a 4" X 18" piece, .004" thick is under USD$20
note: I have not tried using transformers or the mu-metal on any of my Greystations, and cannot comment on the outcome , but my experience suggests that these additions would work well. If electrical shielding is only required, then copper foil is more than adequate.
I think I'll make a wooden enclosure for one of mine. If it is good enough for Bernard Salabert (PHY handmade single driver loudspeaker maker), it's good enough for me 🙂. If I ever get the capability to do some precision construction, I'd love to try an enclose such as Blink's. It does seem to me that Rega may have used these mechanism (or similar) for their cd players and transports. The more I think about audio/video playback, the more I am convinced that well built and implemented modular design consisting of the transport and DAC is the way to go. I wonder if any have hacked a PS3 and to what effect?
Flikoman:Please, can you repost your attachments so they can be opened up larger?
BNWaddict: AFAIK the SCHP 1000/1001/1002/1003 are essentially the same thing, just for different markets (utilizing different video standards and power supply input voltages). I'm willing to accept that I'm wrong....
Blink: beautifully built. I suspect it sounds outstanding! I wonder if you've tried any dampening material since the photos were taken?
The power supplies that these things use is not great, but could be worse. I "discovered" by accident with some devices that dropping the supply voltage slightly can alter the sound dramatically. The noise floor disappears. Then use a small amplifier or transformer to step up the voltage. As long as the transformers are shielded with mu-metal (magentic and electric shielding) then there should be no problem. Mu-metal is pretty expensive, but so little would be required, it would be worth it. It is available as a foil. I think a 4" X 18" piece, .004" thick is under USD$20
note: I have not tried using transformers or the mu-metal on any of my Greystations, and cannot comment on the outcome , but my experience suggests that these additions would work well. If electrical shielding is only required, then copper foil is more than adequate.
I think I'll make a wooden enclosure for one of mine. If it is good enough for Bernard Salabert (PHY handmade single driver loudspeaker maker), it's good enough for me 🙂. If I ever get the capability to do some precision construction, I'd love to try an enclose such as Blink's. It does seem to me that Rega may have used these mechanism (or similar) for their cd players and transports. The more I think about audio/video playback, the more I am convinced that well built and implemented modular design consisting of the transport and DAC is the way to go. I wonder if any have hacked a PS3 and to what effect?
Flikoman:Please, can you repost your attachments so they can be opened up larger?
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I hope the pictures will be OK this time.
In the meantime, I've moved shunt regulator to another place because of electromagnetic field and high peak voltages of PSU.
Local decoupling of DAC is very important (notice MLCC & MKT capacitors) and resistor between DAC and output capacitor (220R will be enough). DAC needs this resistor when driving capacitive load.
Shunt regulator with CCS is the ultimate mod/tweak and I recommend it to everyone.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
In the meantime, I've moved shunt regulator to another place because of electromagnetic field and high peak voltages of PSU.
Local decoupling of DAC is very important (notice MLCC & MKT capacitors) and resistor between DAC and output capacitor (220R will be enough). DAC needs this resistor when driving capacitive load.
Shunt regulator with CCS is the ultimate mod/tweak and I recommend it to everyone.
transport transplant?
Anybody ever tried to adapt a transport from another cd-player to a PS1?
I believe the plastic transport in these old machines are their weakest point (they sure are in mine), and unfortunately I can't trust the vendors of cheap KSM440's on ebay.
Anybody ever tried to adapt a transport from another cd-player to a PS1?
I believe the plastic transport in these old machines are their weakest point (they sure are in mine), and unfortunately I can't trust the vendors of cheap KSM440's on ebay.
A-dapta-transport and images.
Flikoman, thank you for the larger images. At least I can see them now🙂
ceteras: Ive never really had any problems with any of mine. There has to be a means to either get something better or improve the stock ones. I know that many of the Sony transports look cheap but actually work very well, even when worn. What is the problem with yours?
Nanook, my PS1 skips badly even with commercial CD's, and even after I've adjusted the laser trim pot, twice. That's why I don't trust the old plastics, but I'm going to give it another try, perhaps I'll get some newer versions just for the laser (SCPH102 or 9002).
a couple of suggestions....
The lasers are orientated in different directions in the various models of GreyStations. This is one of the shortcomings of the the SCHP-100X ones. The power supply and laser get in close proximity of one another and the heat from the power supply can be an issue.
I'd have to take a couple apart, but to change the laser you may have to create longer wiring to join the two. Can't remember if there is a ribbon cable involved or not (that would be the real issue I guess). Any new transport needs to use the same instruction set as the old one, regardless of what mechanism is used.
If you are wanting to make a new enclosure, then really no issue at all (AFAIK).
The lasers are orientated in different directions in the various models of GreyStations. This is one of the shortcomings of the the SCHP-100X ones. The power supply and laser get in close proximity of one another and the heat from the power supply can be an issue.
I'd have to take a couple apart, but to change the laser you may have to create longer wiring to join the two. Can't remember if there is a ribbon cable involved or not (that would be the real issue I guess). Any new transport needs to use the same instruction set as the old one, regardless of what mechanism is used.
If you are wanting to make a new enclosure, then really no issue at all (AFAIK).
I got three different non-SCHP-100X units along with the real thing from a multi-unit eBay sale ($9.00). Tore them all apart and couldn't find anything that was usable. There is a positioning post (that could be cut) on one end of all the others that fits into a recess on the metal frame. They all would require new wiring.
I even found one that used the same plugs. The laser would cycle up and down at turn-on, but nothing would respond to the remote. If I ever develop a problem I'll just look for a new 100x
I even found one that used the same plugs. The laser would cycle up and down at turn-on, but nothing would respond to the remote. If I ever develop a problem I'll just look for a new 100x
if your lens starts...
if your lens starts skipping the problem is only with sledg rails.the white plastic on aluminium which touches the rail track ,it loses its vertical alignment by friction and time so PLSASE ...NEVER TOUCH THE POTENTIOMETER its very delicate and risky and it is only for laser FOCUS .ALWAYS use the original SONY rated dark ink blue color disc. it SPINS GEOMETRICALLY FLAT and ACCURATE
ENHANCING MOTOR PERFORMANCE !!!!!. OTHER DISCS WOBBLES
CAUSES LASER TO LOSE ITS- - FOCUS-- WHICH IS CONTROLLED
BY THE POTENTIOMETER. if the pot gets damage REPLACE laser unit .
HA..HA..HA..[/IMG]
if your lens starts skipping the problem is only with sledg rails.the white plastic on aluminium which touches the rail track ,it loses its vertical alignment by friction and time so PLSASE ...NEVER TOUCH THE POTENTIOMETER its very delicate and risky and it is only for laser FOCUS .ALWAYS use the original SONY rated dark ink blue color disc. it SPINS GEOMETRICALLY FLAT and ACCURATE
ENHANCING MOTOR PERFORMANCE !!!!!. OTHER DISCS WOBBLES
CAUSES LASER TO LOSE ITS- - FOCUS-- WHICH IS CONTROLLED
BY THE POTENTIOMETER. if the pot gets damage REPLACE laser unit .
HA..HA..HA..[/IMG]
Last edited by a moderator:
Bad image insert removed above. Please try again, but paste the image URL, not the image itself.
Yes, indeed let us see a picture.
I'm still enjoying in the somewhat original state. It's the PS and the shigaclone fighting - I can't really decide...
Brgds
Actually, I believe the potentiometer on the pickup has a direct effect on the laser beam intensity.
The focus is done by processing the difference between PD1 and PD2 signals, it has nothing to do with the potentiometer above mentioned. I know it's very delicate, no problem, I can handle that.
Thanks for the advices, but unfortunately I don't understand all of it.
What's the "original SONY rated dark ink blue color disc" you mentioned?
As for the transport thing I said earlier in the thread, I actually meant another CD player mechanism/pickup, one with similar interface.
Usually, all CD player pickups have the same signals: there's PD1/PD2 for RF and focus, E/F for tracking, a laser diode and a photo diode, tracking and focus coils, tracking and spindle motors, and a limiter switch.
Some pickups use ABCD instead of PD1/PD2, where A + C = PD1 and B + D = PD2 (photodiodes placed in opposite corners of a 2x2 matrix).
This short clip is the only thing I could find searching the net: Playstation 1 CD-ROM - YouTube
PS 1001 AV cable
After reading the entire thread (while listening to my just acquired PS 1001) I would like to sample the audio output from the AV connector. I need to acquire a cable with the AV connector and RCA plugs at the other end. I found cables from Monster and BestBuy (RocketFish) but they include composite cables attached. Anyone know of a AV -- RCA cable?
Thanks,
Marvin
After reading the entire thread (while listening to my just acquired PS 1001) I would like to sample the audio output from the AV connector. I need to acquire a cable with the AV connector and RCA plugs at the other end. I found cables from Monster and BestBuy (RocketFish) but they include composite cables attached. Anyone know of a AV -- RCA cable?
Thanks,
Marvin
Hi everyone. I've been reading the thread and thinking about my little treasure, the 1001 I won off of eBay. I'm really happy this thread and all of you are here. The first time I played the 1001 I knew I had found a replacement for my Oppo 980H. This afternoon I took advantage of primo member Mick Feuerbacher tutorials. I adjusted the laser. And it did need adjustment at all 3 points. Everything went perfect. Well yes and know. I mistakenly rotated the trimmer that is to the right of the Bias and Gain trimmers. As you face the front of the console the 3 trimmers form a cockeyed triangle with the right side being longer. Did I do a bad, what is that trimmer for and I assume it needs to be readjusted. How so.
At any rate there was no sparks or smoke and it sounds even better now. After someone answers my question the output stage is next.
Regards,
Marvin
At any rate there was no sparks or smoke and it sounds even better now. After someone answers my question the output stage is next.
Regards,
Marvin
HELP! Laser and trimmers
Hi everyone. I've been reading the thread and thinking about my little treasure, the 1001 I won off of eBay. I'm really happy this thread and all of you are here. The first time I played the 1001 I knew I had found a replacement for my Oppo 980H. This afternoon I took advantage of primo member Mick Feuerbacher tutorials. I adjusted the laser. And it did need adjustment at all 3 points. Everything went perfect. Well yes and know. I mistakenly rotated the trimmer that is to the right of the Bias and Gain trimmers. As you face the front of the console the 3 trimmers form a cockeyed triangle with the right side being longer. Did I do a bad, what is that trimmer for and I assume it needs to be readjusted. How so.
At any rate there was no sparks or smoke and it sounds even better now. After someone answers my question the output stage is next.
Regards,
Marvin
Hi everyone. I've been reading the thread and thinking about my little treasure, the 1001 I won off of eBay. I'm really happy this thread and all of you are here. The first time I played the 1001 I knew I had found a replacement for my Oppo 980H. This afternoon I took advantage of primo member Mick Feuerbacher tutorials. I adjusted the laser. And it did need adjustment at all 3 points. Everything went perfect. Well yes and know. I mistakenly rotated the trimmer that is to the right of the Bias and Gain trimmers. As you face the front of the console the 3 trimmers form a cockeyed triangle with the right side being longer. Did I do a bad, what is that trimmer for and I assume it needs to be readjusted. How so.
At any rate there was no sparks or smoke and it sounds even better now. After someone answers my question the output stage is next.
Regards,
Marvin
I've been listening to to my PS1 unmodified for a while now and I really like it. I have a 1001. I've been practicing my soldering skill and am now ready to do the output replacement. I do have a few questions. There seems to some differing opinions as to using the 3.3 or 4.5 caps for the DC blocking. What is considered the best? Also what's the best place to order caps. The wima's seem to be mostly available overseas. I'm in the US. I don't have the skills to make a linear power supply. Are there any over the counter one I could buy? Could I hire a skilled modder to make me one?
Thanks!
Thanks!