to keep things safe, put one fuse per Donut, after soft start, holders in case
ZM:
I trust your advice. I'll order some inline fuse holders and do some surgery. Thanks for keeping us alive!
Jim:
Appreciate it!
Regards,
Scott
Hey Scott, beautiful build - That is the most impressive ACA power supply I’ve seen - Got headroom? 😀
Zen wrote:
just one thing - when Big Donut is not surrounded with big Faraday Case, it'll maybe result in need of greater clearance to surrounding apparatuses ........ (sources,preamps)
but , that's manageable[/QUOTE]
——————————-
Zen - Forgot to mention that xformer and supply board are in a separate housing and about 4 feet away from the amp... Thanks for reminding us the importance of isolation 🙂
just one thing - when Big Donut is not surrounded with big Faraday Case, it'll maybe result in need of greater clearance to surrounding apparatuses ........ (sources,preamps)
but , that's manageable[/QUOTE]
——————————-
Zen - Forgot to mention that xformer and supply board are in a separate housing and about 4 feet away from the amp... Thanks for reminding us the importance of isolation 🙂
MesaM love your designs...industrial/different/awesome. I love the bonded non traditional heatsinks/cooling.
to SRMcGee #5491
Hello Scott,
excellent work! A really good F6....
I like monoaural - builds. No crossover from one channel to the other.
Greets
Dirk 😀
Hello Scott,
excellent work! A really good F6....
I like monoaural - builds. No crossover from one channel to the other.
Greets
Dirk 😀
Folks:
Thanks again for the kind words!
My initial impressions are very positive; I let the F6 burn in overnight using my modified FryBaby2 as the source and now, about 11 hours later, it's playing in my main (basement) system. On the slightly warm side of neutral, wide soundstage, and a little forward. The F6 sounds natural, in the sense that with eyes closed, the presentation sounds real.
Oh, and my Elsinores are loving them. There's gobs of headroom.
Pretty damn cool.
I know most of you already have an F6 but, in a post-COVID world, you're all invited over for a listen.
Regards,
Scott
Thanks again for the kind words!
My initial impressions are very positive; I let the F6 burn in overnight using my modified FryBaby2 as the source and now, about 11 hours later, it's playing in my main (basement) system. On the slightly warm side of neutral, wide soundstage, and a little forward. The F6 sounds natural, in the sense that with eyes closed, the presentation sounds real.
Oh, and my Elsinores are loving them. There's gobs of headroom.
Pretty damn cool.
I know most of you already have an F6 but, in a post-COVID world, you're all invited over for a listen.
Regards,
Scott
Attachments
Power Switch
Scott,
Very nice build. What power switch are you using in the front panel?
Thanks.
Bruce
Scott,
Very nice build. What power switch are you using in the front panel?
Thanks.
Bruce
Folks:
This could have been completed in 2020, but I built plenty last year; better to start off the New Year with something fun.
Regards,
Scott
Bruce:
The power switch is a 25mm diameter anti-vandal switch with a blue ring LED illumination, manufactured by Langir on a custom order basis (Langir part no. L25-F/R Z2 A R B 24). I selected Langir because their reputation was on a par with Schurter and Langir's pricing was far lower than the other high quality alternatives. I hosted three group buys for those switches 8-9 years ago (see, for example, Large Illuminated Anti-Vandal Switch) and used one of the few units I reserved for myself.
I tried a smaller-diameter anti-vandal switch on another project and regretted it; the button on a 19mm switch is just too small for my stubby fingers. 25mm diameter switches feel just right for me.
These days, anti-vandal switches are pretty easy to find. You might consider looking for a bi-color unit and pairing it with Mark Johnson's H9KPXG soft start board, which could toggle the color of the switch's LEDs as the amp is turned on and off. Just a thought...
Regards,
Scott
The power switch is a 25mm diameter anti-vandal switch with a blue ring LED illumination, manufactured by Langir on a custom order basis (Langir part no. L25-F/R Z2 A R B 24). I selected Langir because their reputation was on a par with Schurter and Langir's pricing was far lower than the other high quality alternatives. I hosted three group buys for those switches 8-9 years ago (see, for example, Large Illuminated Anti-Vandal Switch) and used one of the few units I reserved for myself.
I tried a smaller-diameter anti-vandal switch on another project and regretted it; the button on a 19mm switch is just too small for my stubby fingers. 25mm diameter switches feel just right for me.
These days, anti-vandal switches are pretty easy to find. You might consider looking for a bi-color unit and pairing it with Mark Johnson's H9KPXG soft start board, which could toggle the color of the switch's LEDs as the amp is turned on and off. Just a thought...
Regards,
Scott
Attachments
Scott,
That's an impressive looking setup you got there... imposing DIY Pass amplifiers flanked by big tower speakers, woo hoo! 🙂
That's an impressive looking setup you got there... imposing DIY Pass amplifiers flanked by big tower speakers, woo hoo! 🙂
Whoa! I find it fairly intimidating to imagine drilling a 25mm hole in a 10mm thick aluminum front panel! Lots of clamps to keep it solidly locked in position, lots of cutting fluid, and lots of bravery. The drill bit alone appears to cost USD 27.00, zounds.
MJ,
A drill press with a good quality Forstner bit (and of course a decent amounts of patience, cutting fluid, clamps, and bravery) can yield decent results! 🙂
Slow and easy does the trick, and stop from time to time to clean the shavings.
A drill press with a good quality Forstner bit (and of course a decent amounts of patience, cutting fluid, clamps, and bravery) can yield decent results! 🙂
Slow and easy does the trick, and stop from time to time to clean the shavings.
Mark:
I cheated and used Front Panel Express. But yeah, doing it yourself would be daunting.
Regards,
Scott
I cheated and used Front Panel Express. But yeah, doing it yourself would be daunting.
Regards,
Scott
F5
Hello everybody,
Posting some images of my recently completed First Watt F5 monoblocks.
It was a fun project. Still need to build speakers to properly test it 🙂
Hello everybody,
Posting some images of my recently completed First Watt F5 monoblocks.
It was a fun project. Still need to build speakers to properly test it 🙂
Attachments
Fugly!

you made custom purchase at Modushop, as whole case, or you bought elements of your choice, to complete it?

you made custom purchase at Modushop, as whole case, or you bought elements of your choice, to complete it?
Whoa! I find it fairly intimidating to imagine drilling a 25mm hole in a 10mm thick aluminum front panel! Lots of clamps to keep it solidly locked in position, lots of cutting fluid, and lots of bravery. The drill bit alone appears to cost USD 27.00, zounds.
i'm lucky to live in an area surrounded by many metal workshop with giant heavy tools, which some produce fastener bolt as big as my leg, and most importantly not too expensive labour cost. i think that investing on metal tools is not effective unless you are on production/service job, for woodworking is still affordable price.
i built my own chassis with 10mm aluminium plate, rough square cut and cleaned by milling station @2HP motor. so much fun watching the operator man on working 😀
What an awesome set of builds over the past few posts!
Elwood: not sure what made me smile more in your image - the ohm's law circle or the fire extinguisher on your bench 😉
Don't let this info fall into the wrong hands!
Attachments
you made custom purchase at Modushop, as whole case, or you bought elements of your choice, to complete it?
I have purchased standard 4U 230mm wide Galaxy cases from Modushop and mounted 250x200mm heat sinks on the front panels myself.
It turned out not too hard to do. At least not harder than making back panel holes for AC socket or drilling and tapping heat sinks 😀
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