These pics are totally normal since I used all the standard stuff from the DIY store. While it's not too impressive compared to the fine projects in this thread, it felt like an accomplishment for me. I built the ACA which was fun but this project was a challenge for me and took lots of time putting together all the pieces, building it, problem solving, etc.
Next time I'll spend some time getting a custom front panel or something to make it look unique, put the LED holes on the front or something to make it more unique.
Here are more pics - https://photos.app.goo.gl/1xURKbb8MXJC89yo7
Next time I'll spend some time getting a custom front panel or something to make it look unique, put the LED holes on the front or something to make it more unique.
Here are more pics - https://photos.app.goo.gl/1xURKbb8MXJC89yo7
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It is quite impressive, don't you worry about that. And it is unique cause you made it yourself. The most important question: how does it sound yo you? I see you use Schiit pre, is it a good match?
The amp sounds incredible! I’ve never heard anything so crisp and clear. Good recordings sound amazing. It’s like I can hear if the guy playing the stand up bass clipped his finger nails that day or not. A brush on a snare drum sounds like you can count the metal wires sliding across the surface. With electronic music it’s a bit more difficult because a bad sample or two in a loop is so obvious that it distracts me, but a good professionally mastered recording sounds awesome.
The Schiit pre works good with this amp vs the ACA. It has three modes; a passive stage, a JFET buffer and a tube gain stage. The JFET is gain +1 and the tube is gain +5. The ACA in balanced monoblocks sounded sweet with the buffer mode but I’m pretty sure it was clipping if I turned on the tubes because it sounded off. With the F5, I can turn on the tubes no problem. It seems to like it and it’s much louder. However I will say the only sonic difference is the loudness. The tubes don’t add a better sound to the amp.
At some point I added all the costs up and it was about $700. But I bought the pieces over 8 months so it wasn’t too bad. Well worth it, for the sound and for the experience. So much fun.
The Schiit pre works good with this amp vs the ACA. It has three modes; a passive stage, a JFET buffer and a tube gain stage. The JFET is gain +1 and the tube is gain +5. The ACA in balanced monoblocks sounded sweet with the buffer mode but I’m pretty sure it was clipping if I turned on the tubes because it sounded off. With the F5, I can turn on the tubes no problem. It seems to like it and it’s much louder. However I will say the only sonic difference is the loudness. The tubes don’t add a better sound to the amp.
At some point I added all the costs up and it was about $700. But I bought the pieces over 8 months so it wasn’t too bad. Well worth it, for the sound and for the experience. So much fun.
My M2x
18V SMPS rails, IqA 1.8 , Heatsinks @ 53degC
this was a warm up build in preparation for the real Sissy
..dB
18V SMPS rails, IqA 1.8 , Heatsinks @ 53degC
this was a warm up build in preparation for the real Sissy
..dB
Db,
Interesting how you made a +/- supply from a V+ SMPS. Is that the same concept used in the B1 v2 buffer? Nice work! You should win a prize for "Class A amp, thinnest chassis"
Vince
Interesting how you made a +/- supply from a V+ SMPS. Is that the same concept used in the B1 v2 buffer? Nice work! You should win a prize for "Class A amp, thinnest chassis"
Vince
My current project, Aleph 5
My third amp build, my second power amp, and my first PASS amp!
Unlike previous builds I leapt into buying kits/parts before doing much research. I wanted to go Class A and the Alephs were adjustment free. I'm now thinking I should have gone much bigger on the case/heatsinks!!! I will probably end up cranking down the bias 🙁 or putting a couple of 12v PC fans wired in series... As it is, I've had to think laterally on how to fit all in to the case... The trafo is huge!
My third amp build, my second power amp, and my first PASS amp!
Unlike previous builds I leapt into buying kits/parts before doing much research. I wanted to go Class A and the Alephs were adjustment free. I'm now thinking I should have gone much bigger on the case/heatsinks!!! I will probably end up cranking down the bias 🙁 or putting a couple of 12v PC fans wired in series... As it is, I've had to think laterally on how to fit all in to the case... The trafo is huge!
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A new BA-3 continues
I was working a little bit on on my BA-3.
Trafos are from Sedlbauer (300W each, output is at 24,4V)
PSU is running and tested at +/- 34,6 V (I expected around 33V)
Stuffing the `heaters`with the matched FETs.
Greets from Dirk
I was working a little bit on on my BA-3.
Trafos are from Sedlbauer (300W each, output is at 24,4V)
PSU is running and tested at +/- 34,6 V (I expected around 33V)
Stuffing the `heaters`with the matched FETs.
Greets from Dirk
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This isn't a criticism, just a suggestion for everyone. Rotating a photo and reducing the size of photos for posting on the forums is easier than you might think.
By reducing your photos to 800x480 pixels, you can save server and desktop disk space and have a photo that's large enough and easy enough to view.
Here are some photo editors. Some are free and others are not.
I use Graphical Image Manipulation Programs, aka, G.I.M.P..
It's free and cross platform capable, meaning it can be used on Linux, Windows and Mac. It is more complicated, but an excellent editor with tons of features.
25 Best Online Photo Editor Softwares & Apps (Free and Paid)
By reducing your photos to 800x480 pixels, you can save server and desktop disk space and have a photo that's large enough and easy enough to view.
Here are some photo editors. Some are free and others are not.
I use Graphical Image Manipulation Programs, aka, G.I.M.P..
It's free and cross platform capable, meaning it can be used on Linux, Windows and Mac. It is more complicated, but an excellent editor with tons of features.
25 Best Online Photo Editor Softwares & Apps (Free and Paid)
Gimp is nice and quite powerful, and I always install it on my PCs. But it is slow to load.
So, if want a really simple program, powerfull enough for web publishing, I recommend Paint.NET.
It is free, fast end simple!
🙂 morten
Yes, that's true. Makes you think there's something wrong, but it does some checks and takes a little bit to load.
Thanks for the recommendation.
It might just be the forum software reoptimizes the images when uploaded. I know mediawiki and other web software does this, so im sure it is an option. There are so many addons to vbulletin, it just might be a switch need toggling.
Sizing might be a factor of what level donation a member provides. Sideways photos are just not formated by the user correctly.
I apologize!
I should apologize for posting pics with too many pixels and
not having turned them into the correct direction! Sorry!
I did not wanted to stretch anybodys backbones / muscles.
Will try to do better!
Greets Dirk
I should apologize for posting pics with too many pixels and
not having turned them into the correct direction! Sorry!
I did not wanted to stretch anybodys backbones / muscles.
Will try to do better!
Greets Dirk
I feel like your PSU rectifier heat sinks will be too small. Just something to keep in mind as you bring your new amp into service.
Although yes, I’d agree that uploading full eight plus megapixel photos straight from the phone or camera is over the top and too much for those with slow internet (and takes a toll on the server) in this day and age 800x480 (just over a third of a megapixel) is very small and results in far too little detail being left in the photo.
I’d say a more reasonable size would be 1280 pixels on the long edge (eg. 1280x768 if 4:3) Although even that is a bare minimum usable size far as I’m concerned.