• WARNING: Tube/Valve amplifiers use potentially LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGES.
    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
    performed by someone who is thoroughly familiar with
    the safety precautions around high voltages.

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Russian ST70 wannabe, 6F12 instead of the 7199.... EL34 in straight triode only mode....
 

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It's finally done. The project that kept getting put on the back burner for me that I really wanted to complete.

Design by Alex Cavalli which is a streamlined Futterman OTL. Parts from the four corners of the Internet - I've been buying parts here and there for years. I couldn't really get a front design that I liked which would set it apart from my other pieces. I wanted a vintage look for sure and finally settled on something that might include wing designs from the 1930s and a pilot light from many eras. The front panels were ultimately done by Front Panel Express. The rest of the design started falling into place this year. The wings, in particular, were a bit difficult for me to align with the pilot light as they came from a jewelry supply store so had their own mounting holes...which were not quite what was needed for a panel mount. Many drill bits and measuring(s) later they were done.

The rest of the parts are working really well together. 6922 or 6DJ8 tubes on the input and 6N6P output tubes. Gold Point stepped attenuator, Cardas input jacks, DH Labs Pro Studio interconnect as input, Cardas output wire, the 370DAX transformer and a Muffsy power breakout board which holds a MeanWell 120V -> 5V transformer for the pilot light. I am currently using photo flash caps which are 410uF. In the future I may change these to something lower. Who knows? There are no LEDs on the amp boards and I decided to skip the NFB circuit. So no, the amp isn't particularly great with Grados. As expected.

The amp is a treat with Sennheiser HD600s, of course. It's also happy with a pair of AT-ESW9. There is a musical rightness to it, even with mediocre sources. With great sources: it's delicious! Like most great components, though, it's difficult to describe what it is doing other than giving me more insight and emotion than many other amps I own.
Wow congrats on finishing the Bijou! This takes me back. My kit (also with photoflash caps) still remains on the backburner as the cans I listen to nowadays are low impedance... but maybe one day I'll finish it.
 
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Russian ST70 wannabe
Neat work Tony. What PCB did you use? Also what was the noise like? Noticed the heater wiring wasn't twisted all the way to the EL34's. I've always struggled slightly wiring htrs on octal sockets on power valves which are pins 2 & 7 unlike a small signal triode like the 6SN7 which have htrs on pins 7&8. Wonder why they wired power valves differently?

Andy.
 
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Andy,
i am sure i will raise quite a lot of eyebrow's, the psu is nothing you probably have seen...
noise os quite good, excellent even....twisted wires for ac heaters need not go all the way....
we made a pcb to incorporate all psu parts and then some...so that wiring is kept to minimum....
will post as built and revisions, the 6f12 has far too much gain than the 7199...
 

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There are lots of reasons to use a vacuum tube rectifier . . .

Marketing and Sales: Looks pretty; is said my many to "sound good"; can make it an all tube amplifier.

Negative Performance: A direct heated tube rectifier has a quick turn on; makes the B+ voltage less stiff than solid state rectifiers; has a B+ voltage drop.

Positive Performance: Indirect heated tube rectifiers have a soft start; TV damper diodes have an even longer time soft start.
 
I hope nobody is using a directly heated rectifier tube to delay the B+ turn on time.

Unless, you are using a special application, like this one for example:

A separate 6.3VAC filament winding (dedicated to the rectifier tube Only, No other filaments on this winding),
and a 5Y3 5V 2.0Amp filament, in series with a 0.65 Ohm 10 Watt resistor.
At power on, the 5Y3 cold filament is Much less than 1 Ohm, so lots of the 6.3VAC is across the 0.65Ohm resistor, eventually the 5Y3 filament warms up to 2.5 Ohm, then the filament is at 5V, and the 0.65 Ohm resistor drops 1.3V from the 6.3V filament winding.
 
The delay time will vary depending on the rectifier tube type.
If the cold amplifier does not provide a full load on the 1/2 cold 1/2 warm rectifier, than there will be little or no delay of B+.

When the amplifier is turned on cold, it is not just cold rectifiers, it is cold output tubes.
I expect 2A3 or 300B AC filaments will warm up very quickly.
But I know that a KT88 filament warms up very slowly.
That means the time varying load on the rectifier at cold power up varies according to the rest of the amplifier tubes.

YMMV

By the way, why do you need delayed B+ ?
 
it is not the delay per se, but the avoidance of surges, hence the soft starting wherein inrush of currents to the transformer and psu caps are mitigated, the impedances along with the rectifier dynamic impedance all collaborate to achieve this soft starting...yes, with a delay of course...

in my 6C33 SET, i used a 10k power resistor from psu rectifier cap to the tube circuits to achieve a ramping up of voltage whilst waiting for the filaments to warm up to operating temperature, and at which time the series resistor is them shorted out by relay contacts to bypass that current limiting resistor...it has been almost 12 years since ad the amp still lives on....https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/my-russian-set.216206/
 

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Some photos of the Acrosound TO-300 ultralinear amplifiers which I just built. I'm at the stage of checking for errors and performance testing. There's 4 mono channels of amplification.
Octal plug setup for McIntosh c8 and c8s preamps.
6sl7 6sn7 and 2 matched 6l6 per amplifier, solid state rectified.
~20 watts per channel and they are very nice to listen to with 12 db of global feedback.
Power supply is 3x overkill, ultra beefcake! And there's 4 of them.

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