I don't know what I'm missing here but why don't you break that link? That's how I had it running on my CD650 with just the one master-clock. The extra clock feed was certainly nice, it will be the icing on the cake on my Arcam, on which I've just got the Pass D1 output stage running - can't stop listening to music now!!!
Hi Simon,
just don't understand what to do exactly, you've let pin 4 alone ? And fed a /2 at pin 2?
Matthieu
just don't understand what to do exactly, you've let pin 4 alone ? And fed a /2 at pin 2?
Matthieu
I think you break the link between pins 2 & 4 and connect 4 to ground. Then feed the clock to pin 2.
Actually, I didn't ground anything, but I cut the trace between pins 2 and 4, then fed a clock signal (11.2Mhz) to pin 2.
Simon, I'm pretty sure Pin 2 should have bck which is 11.2MHz / 2. I'm surprised it works with a full 11.2MHz.
Still no progress with my cd94 btw🙁
Lee.
Still no progress with my cd94 btw🙁
Lee.
I've tried to un link 2 & 4.
The same.
Then played with Rs : 47R and wihte noise came from both channel then set only at right, R like 300 and wihte noise only.. at left.
Then I decided to remove that mod until I find a better way.
Fitted back the BCK link and removed all.
No more sound, dead silence! +/-5/-15 all fine, power all around and links OK.
I think I've killed my best player :'(
That overheating feeling may be involved, so much regs in a plastic case... or not.
I hate DIY!
The same.
Then played with Rs : 47R and wihte noise came from both channel then set only at right, R like 300 and wihte noise only.. at left.
Then I decided to remove that mod until I find a better way.
Fitted back the BCK link and removed all.
No more sound, dead silence! +/-5/-15 all fine, power all around and links OK.
I think I've killed my best player :'(
That overheating feeling may be involved, so much regs in a plastic case... or not.
I hate DIY!
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TDA 1541 A
Pin2 BCK works with 11,2.. but more jitter and hotter chip. Better take a divider after clock.
Pin4 it doesn't matter what you do with in multiplexed Mode. Internaly pin 4 is connected to nothing and has only in simultanous mode function as DATA R input.
TDA 1541 non A
There you can feed pin4 with BCK (connect pin2) or better with BCK *2. While no OS BCK is 2,8.. (BCK *2 = 5,6.. for pin4) and with OS it is 5,6.. (BCK*2 = 11,2.. for pin4)
Maybe your TDA is heat death Malefoda
Pin2 BCK works with 11,2.. but more jitter and hotter chip. Better take a divider after clock.
Pin4 it doesn't matter what you do with in multiplexed Mode. Internaly pin 4 is connected to nothing and has only in simultanous mode function as DATA R input.
TDA 1541 non A
There you can feed pin4 with BCK (connect pin2) or better with BCK *2. While no OS BCK is 2,8.. (BCK *2 = 5,6.. for pin4) and with OS it is 5,6.. (BCK*2 = 11,2.. for pin4)
Maybe your TDA is heat death Malefoda
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Very interesting. Well then, perhaps I connected pin 4 only then! I know it didn't work with 11.2Mhz fed to 2 & 4 together. I can't remember now.
I will get a C2 clock and feed the thing /2 eventually.
Simon
It's in my Arcam Alpha now (my CD650 sort of died). It sounds absolutely wonderful. Compared to the stock op-amps the vocal presentation is so much more complete, solid and interesting to listen to. The first thing I often notice is the three-dimensionality of the image, which is fantastic. The top and bottom end are very good, the bass being both controlled and potent. There is, perhaps, a very slight haze to the sound but the overall impression is one of exceptional musicality, the life is brought out of every recording with ease.
So, err, I'm a fan!!! I'd like to know how to increase the bias now...
So, err, I'm a fan!!! I'd like to know how to increase the bias now...
Than you do nothing else than cut the trace between 2 and 4 and it plays? You have that N1 TDA? Is it different from TDA A?
TDA A don't care what you do with pin4 while i2s (pin27 is connected with +5v). You can cut the trace between 2 und 4. Do this by non A and it stops function.
The other different between A and non A is that A has no DEM Cap inside. That gives possibility to synchrone shift with clock.
Hearing a difference by feeding pin4 different on TDA A is nonsens like hearing a difference by clocking the DEM pin16 and 17 at TDA non A
For example cutting pin 16 or 17 from extern DEM Cup without getting distortions is like cutting trace between 2 and 4 the safest way to indentify a relabed non A that on wondrous now a crown carries.
You have the non A and 2/4 is connect together?
I messured temperatures from 46,2 celsius. My fingers tell me that is hot, but it's normal.
But when the TDA is
no reason to 
it is a lucky chance to take a Crown inside 🙄
No, it's a A S1 Single Crown, and 4 linked to 2 as in your note.
Well I don't know if I'll change it, it's full like an egg there, heat is defo an issue in this plastic case.
If I understand well, clocking issues also warm the IC?
And as for the 42°C, with box closed the top lid is at 37°... how much more inside...
Thanks,
Matthieu
Well I don't know if I'll change it, it's full like an egg there, heat is defo an issue in this plastic case.
If I understand well, clocking issues also warm the IC?
And as for the 42°C, with box closed the top lid is at 37°... how much more inside...
Thanks,
Matthieu
On every clocked IC
frequenz increase = power consumption inrease = temperature increase
frequenz decrease = power ...
frequenz increase = power consumption inrease = temperature increase
frequenz decrease = power ...
Before looking for a TDA, can't the SAA7220 being the fried one?
It played months before going to that clock and heat issue, change impacted the TDA so I think it is the TDA...
A spare R1 for test someone?
It played months before going to that clock and heat issue, change impacted the TDA so I think it is the TDA...
A spare R1 for test someone?
CD 650-got one for 50euros,changed 470uF psu caps with Elna CeraFine 1000uF,changed TDA's suplly caps with panasonic puerism,(wish i can get some OSCON SG series...:removed stupid 14x of decoupling smd's and replaced with 100nF MKS(...next will be separate 78xx and 79xx for each,saa7220,7210,and for the mighty 1541,and separate suplly for out NE5532's(of course,changed stupid 220uF 10v at the out to 4.7uF BP Pureism,and out from cap straight to the out,bye bye mute transistors).......and resoldered EVERY leg of every pcb......sound????? whaaaaaaaa.....cant beleive that those old machines can give such sound.....1541 is hell of a dac...with those CDM2 and 7210 and little of psu playing its a high end player....sorry on bad english,regards from Croatia,Zagreb......
Hi Chivvyp
Over the years, I've seen this come up time and again, in all the Philips CD series.
I traced it to Wiring Defects - poor design on the part of Philips engineers, or too much interference by the beancounters.
The chances are that it affects every Philips CD ever made, and it's just a matter of time before it shows up on any given one, and the more you play with your deck (don't stop!), the closer the critical time comes.
Download the CD650 pdf, it deals with the problem and the solution in detail.
Regards
Menahem Yachad
Israel
Condor Audio |
I have a Magnavox CDB610 which I picked up for a piddling.
Beautiful machine, sound is warm and smooth, fairly good detail, tight bass and wonderful mids.
A very good all rounder.
If some mods could improve the sound even more, that would be great, but the issue, at least for me, is do I have the skills to pick up my iron and make some changes. Not sure.
If I'm not, then the only option is to pay someone to do it for me, and that could get expensive.
Maybe I'll just keep it as it is for now, as I wouldn't want to spoil such a great sounding machine.
Cheers
Beautiful machine, sound is warm and smooth, fairly good detail, tight bass and wonderful mids.
A very good all rounder.
If some mods could improve the sound even more, that would be great, but the issue, at least for me, is do I have the skills to pick up my iron and make some changes. Not sure.
If I'm not, then the only option is to pay someone to do it for me, and that could get expensive.
Maybe I'll just keep it as it is for now, as I wouldn't want to spoil such a great sounding machine.
Cheers
