Philips CD104 tweaks

Tube output is working... and not.

I added the tube stage after the 1540 (see diagrams posted earlier). Good news is that there is music and so dar as I can judge it is ok. Bad news is the additional sounds...

With additional sounds I mean :
- lots of hummmmmm...... well, that should be not too difficult to solve, perhaps the transistor schema suggested before. Or... Humm due to incorrect heater supply?? I noticed that the 6,3V supply does not give more then 5V!!! I need a bigger TX, the 6V 800mA probably gives not enough room for the TL1085.
- digital noises; When I press play there is this "weewee plop plop buzzzzz" before the music starts. The weewee plop plop stops then but the higher buzzzz continues through the music. It is like R2D2 does an intro before the music starts and then wisstles along.

The digital noise must be due to 2 things; first the removed muting stage, well nothing to do here I guess as that is gone forever and second the lack of filtering (except for the RC 22ohm/150nF after dac).

I can live with R2D2 doing the intro's but I want to get rid of the higher buzzz. Would anybody have a suggestion for a better method of filtering between dac and tubes?

Thanks,

Jeroen
 

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JeroenR said:
Tube output is working... and not.

I added the tube stage after the 1540 (see diagrams posted earlier). Good news is that there is music and so dar as I can judge it is ok. Bad news is the additional sounds...

With additional sounds I mean :
- lots of hummmmmm...... well, that should be not too difficult to solve, perhaps the transistor schema suggested before. Or... Humm due to incorrect heater supply?? I noticed that the 6,3V supply does not give more then 5V!!! I need a bigger TX, the 6V 800mA probably gives not enough room for the TL1085.
- digital noises; When I press play there is this "weewee plop plop buzzzzz" before the music starts. The weewee plop plop stops then but the higher buzzzz continues through the music. It is like R2D2 does an intro before the music starts and then wisstles along.

The digital noise must be due to 2 things; first the removed muting stage, well nothing to do here I guess as that is gone forever and second the lack of filtering (except for the RC 22ohm/150nF after dac).

I can live with R2D2 doing the intro's but I want to get rid of the higher buzzz. Would anybody have a suggestion for a better method of filtering between dac and tubes?

Thanks,

Jeroen


Hi.

Hum possibly due to heaters or maybe the HT supply.
Try a battery supply for the heaters or disconnect while playing to see if the noise disappears.

Add more capacitors to HT.
It may also be due to too much current being drawn causing a drop in voltage - use regulator for lower HT as per my previous post.

For filtering, see Thorstens circuit for other dacs and adapt the filter [ use choke etc] He has posted a revised circuit I believe.

Cheers for now and good luck, JeroenR, I will be away now for 5 weeks or so.

Andy
 
poynton said:



Hi.

Hum possibly due to heaters or maybe the HT supply.
Try a battery supply for the heaters or disconnect while playing to see if the noise disappears.

Add more capacitors to HT.
It may also be due to too much current being drawn causing a drop in voltage - use regulator for lower HT as per my previous post.

For filtering, see Thorstens circuit for other dacs and adapt the filter [ use choke etc] He has posted a revised circuit I believe.

Cheers for now and good luck, JeroenR, I will be away now for 5 weeks or so.

Andy

Hi Andy,

Thanks again.

Have a great time on the Azores. 🙂

I'll keep posting.

Jeroen
 
CD104 Service Manual

It would appear that several participants in this thread have a copy of the CD104 Service Manual.

I have just been able to replace the CD104 that I foolishly scrapped about ten years ago(before I had web access and was aware of the mechanism it uses) and as I am sure that the replacement will benefit from some care and attention (replacement electrolytics etc) I would be very grateful if someone could send me a copy of the Service Manual (and any other relevant information). Please email it to :

mail DOT tcaas AT btinternet DOT com

Thanks in anticipation,

Geoff
 
CD104 Mod

Hi all

I modified a cd104

Decoder pcb: removed saa7030 (NOS)
In place of the two TDA1540p: two TDA1541a S1 ((parallel)
Power PCB 7917 replaced by 7915.
added 9705 on the heathsink.
nothing is cahanged in clocking
nothing is changed in I/V stage


result compare to non modified CD104 and 2 only NOS modified
(SAA7030 removed) one's the one with the 2 TDA1541a sounds IMHO far out the best. (round nice sound).

My wife (first violinist at the Rotterdam Phil) and son (trying to become a prof concert pianist) voted both for the 1541a parallel mod.

see attached foto
 

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Re: CD104 Mod

Onnosr said:
Hi all

I modified a cd104

Decoder pcb: removed saa7030 (NOS)
In place of the two TDA1540p: two TDA1541a S1 ((parallel)
Power PCB 7917 replaced by 7915.
added 9705 on the heathsink.
nothing is cahanged in clocking
nothing is changed in I/V stage


result compare to non modified CD104 and 2 only NOS modified
(SAA7030 removed) one's the one with the 2 TDA1541a sounds IMHO far out the best. (round nice sound).

My wife (first violinist at the Rotterdam Phil) and son (trying to become a prof concert pianist) voted both for the 1541a parallel mod.

see attached foto

Very interesting. Did you have to put some jumper cables across the 7030 holes ? (maybe after the photo was taken or you put the jumpers underneath the board
 
Re: Re: CD104 Mod

jives11 said:


Very interesting. Did you have to put some jumper cables across the 7030 holes ? (maybe after the photo was taken or you put the jumpers underneath the board


Hi Jives

Thank you for replying on my posts.

I used a 24 DIL socket on the place of the SAA7000

This offers easy plug in Of the SAA7000 or a (second) 24 DIL socket with the four jumpers on it to compare NOS with 4xOS.

The TDA5141a is 16 bit so pin 16 from the SAA7000 has to stay low.

Next goal is to change to balanced DAC and try as I/V
two Beyer TR's (see photo) They have a balanced 25 ohm input !
In some post Guido Tent advised that.
But my problem is to learn how and wich signals
from the SAA7000 to one of the TDA1541a's I have to invert.
Perhaps you or somebody else can give me the light.

GRTZ

Onno
 

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