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Good choice.
I especially like the look of the black anodized aluminum but can see they won't couple well with my CablePods.
I ordered .250 1/4" 4"x4" Aluminum sheet plate from ebay. I will drill them to spec -
250 1 4" Mill Finish Aluminum Sheet Plate 6061 4" x 4" | eBay
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Joined 2009
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Yes, the black plates £091-602 I believe and the BPP-Premium gold binding posts to suit.
I've doubled up on the front baffle just behind the driver only, as that's what I had in the scrap pile. But seem to have lost the relevant router bit so I'll have to wait for a trip to the store now. In the meantime I'm starting to glue up the side panels to the rear panel. The front panel will be glued in after routing. Then I'll do some simple braces from the scrap bits and finally the top and bottom can go on ( I modified the design to allow the top and bottom to go on last).
The drivers are slowly cooking at my friends house, he says they don't sound promising, somewhat metallic. Well, pretty much what I'd expect for a raw driver fresh from it's birth. It'll loosen up and the sound will fill out nicely in the box - judging by what others have to say.
I've doubled up on the front baffle just behind the driver only, as that's what I had in the scrap pile. But seem to have lost the relevant router bit so I'll have to wait for a trip to the store now. In the meantime I'm starting to glue up the side panels to the rear panel. The front panel will be glued in after routing. Then I'll do some simple braces from the scrap bits and finally the top and bottom can go on ( I modified the design to allow the top and bottom to go on last).
The drivers are slowly cooking at my friends house, he says they don't sound promising, somewhat metallic. Well, pretty much what I'd expect for a raw driver fresh from it's birth. It'll loosen up and the sound will fill out nicely in the box - judging by what others have to say.
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Joined 2009
Paid Member
Just got hands on 10M3 and 10P, gonna try them both with different class D and compare.
And er... just noticed, what exactly this 812mm(31 31/32) dimension should be linked to? In 7.3 design alike dimension gives driver center height off floor. Seems to me it should be corrected or maybe just removed as front panel height can be achieved anyway from back panel height and port size.
And er... just noticed, what exactly this 812mm(31 31/32) dimension should be linked to? In 7.3 design alike dimension gives driver center height off floor. Seems to me it should be corrected or maybe just removed as front panel height can be achieved anyway from back panel height and port size.
Hello Everyone
My Alpair 10.3 s arrived here in Bangalore after changing three hands from US due to the schedule changes at my friend's end who was to originally carry them for me.
Now as I am about to place the order for wood(Birch Ply-19mm) What cabin design I should opt for ?
1.Mostly I listen to 70's to 90's rock with very occasional Jazz(When I want to sound snobbish!
2.WAF and real estate the Horns are out-essentially between pencil 10.3 s BR book shelves What and why Should I choose a particular design
3.This will be installed in my Bedroom with a NAD 320BEE and a PC with all the music in .WAV form and Maudio DAC
4.I may go in for a Tube amp later...and I like reasonable low end and the upper end should be smooth yet present noticeably.
Thanks a lot folks...
My Alpair 10.3 s arrived here in Bangalore after changing three hands from US due to the schedule changes at my friend's end who was to originally carry them for me.
Now as I am about to place the order for wood(Birch Ply-19mm) What cabin design I should opt for ?
1.Mostly I listen to 70's to 90's rock with very occasional Jazz(When I want to sound snobbish!
2.WAF and real estate the Horns are out-essentially between pencil 10.3 s BR book shelves What and why Should I choose a particular design
3.This will be installed in my Bedroom with a NAD 320BEE and a PC with all the music in .WAV form and Maudio DAC
4.I may go in for a Tube amp later...and I like reasonable low end and the upper end should be smooth yet present noticeably.
Thanks a lot folks...
Based on experience with a wide of drivers by Mark and others, I've found that a floorstanding MLTL delivers more bass extension, dynamics and articulation than any "bookshelf" sealed or vented enclosure for the same driver.
If there's any way that limited floor space could still accommodate the footprint of Pensil, I doubt you'd reget the choice.
If there's any way that limited floor space could still accommodate the footprint of Pensil, I doubt you'd reget the choice.
That's interesting, i don't doubt you just that i was led to believe a "bookshelf" monitor design would image better then a floorstander, and also be the better choice for floorspace limited small rooms.
So i am curious, given a 13.5'x9.5'/8'h ceiling drafting room/alt system, would you still stand by the above advice to go with the Pencil over a bookshelf monitor?
For a room that size, I'd probably go with a smaller driver, such as A7.3, but in a word - yes - as much for the economic practicality of decent pair of floor stands costing more than the difference in material cost between the bookshelf size and the floorstanders, as well as occupying at least the same net footprint of floor space
I have desk top mini-monitor FR enclosures at both work and home computers, but how many folks actually put "bookshelf sized" speaker on a bookshelf? Now, surrounds and centre channel speakers for home theatre set up are a different story - those can be constrained as to physical dimensions.
I have desk top mini-monitor FR enclosures at both work and home computers, but how many folks actually put "bookshelf sized" speaker on a bookshelf? Now, surrounds and centre channel speakers for home theatre set up are a different story - those can be constrained as to physical dimensions.
A solo A7.3 is tempting for that room. I have a 18wpc Scott 222c which would be sufficient only i also like my single digit SET's and would want the option to cycle those amps thru the system from time to time. Not so sure a 2A3 SET would work so well with the A7.3 even in that small of a room. I generally use the Scott 222c with the HDTV for concert/music material.
MP3: While my 7's are gen2, not gen3, in my listening room of apprx 18' x 24' the MA7.2's in Pensil cabinets sound glorious at low listening levels driven by 2A3 mono blocks…..you really can't go wrong with the 7s in Pensil cabinets unless you want to rock out at 90db+. I think you'll love them….you can always switch to your Scott if the 2A3s are insufficient for your purposes.
Of the speakers we have made, the trapezoidal miniOnkens in general produce the best image/soundstage, whether they reach the floor or not. They don't always work out as well as a more traditional floorstanders. They usually don't go as low.
It is often the case that small stand-mounts have an edge with imaging because the smaller boxes inherently have smaller panels and there is less box signature. The shape is important too.
dave
I'm generally more content with the simpler approach of a floorstander - for me they're hardly much more work to build than a "monitor" size, don't need stands that can cost more than the drivers, and as Dave notes, when properly designed, almost always produce deeper and more dynamic bass than the smaller enclosure.
"Holographic" imaging or any of the other minutia of n'th degree performance just aren't as important to me now as they were 30yrs ago.
"Holographic" imaging or any of the other minutia of n'th degree performance just aren't as important to me now as they were 30yrs ago.
I have been using my 10m,s for the last year or so in the larger 25ish liter boxes on stands, because of my 1 year grandsons fascination with those pretty shiny cones i recently turned them towards the wall and put the smaller 16ish liter 10ps on top where he can,t reach, still not sure which i like better i am still impressed with both.
Sure...The least I can do!
I am yet to finish the gluing,as I am stuck with how exactly I can proceed to stuffing and sealing the back plate,not having gone with the internal cleats suggested.
Currently I am thinking to have a stepped hole of 90 dia /110 dia and have the center cut pieces for the driver,turned to a stepped dia plate to go in to the hole(ref attached sketch) ,on which I can have the banana binding posts.So to add to stuffing I can remove this plate which will anyway be flush,reach across to bottom corners till just above the vent .And will be handy for sealing the bottom half of the back plate.
I have also taken the suggestion of a double baffle for the speaker mounting and glued a 12 mm MDF and cut a through hole for speaker clearance.This week end it should be done,except finishing.Also I am going in with M3 hex bolt and D nut,as I am concerned this wooden screw mounting may not last for long given I may have to remove and mount the speakers many a times during the stuffing and finishing stages.
Suggestions /advice welcome...Thanks a lot folks
