Ok, so this is the first version at picture.
MKII is probably the one to get.
There has also been a remake of it.
So far I am very happy with my Miracord 90. It can give me a good learning experience.
Belt driven 6.5 kg platter with a nice Clearaudio (it seems) carbon fiber tonearm.
I need to read a bit more about VTA and the adjustment.
Seems most use VTA to just adjust arm to be parallel without attention to the actual stylus angle. I guess the actual stylus angle is more important than having the tonearm parallel. Think most assumes that if tonearm is parallel then everything is ok.
MKII is probably the one to get.
There has also been a remake of it.
So far I am very happy with my Miracord 90. It can give me a good learning experience.
Belt driven 6.5 kg platter with a nice Clearaudio (it seems) carbon fiber tonearm.
I need to read a bit more about VTA and the adjustment.
Seems most use VTA to just adjust arm to be parallel without attention to the actual stylus angle. I guess the actual stylus angle is more important than having the tonearm parallel. Think most assumes that if tonearm is parallel then everything is ok.
Pretty certain it is a Satisfy, not Satisfy Carbon Fiber. Buying a new higher end ttbl opens up so many options, have never played w/ the SP 10 but suspect it is quite superb. I am a fan of the better Clearaudio ttbls, currently running an Ovation. One of the thinngs that appeals to me technically and sonically is their use of a magnetic spindle bearing to aid in lowering the noise floor. This is not unique to them, Project has some well regarded ttbls employing this technology, and there are probably many others.
One of the areas that DD ttbls have some criticism is "cogging" which is a very subtle speed variation as I understand it. Technics most recent drives have gone to great lengths to reduce this effect, but I'm pretty sure @6L6 can add much more insightful info on them. I have been quite intrigued with their new SL1200G, which is a little over $4K new.
I have written to Clearaudio to ask for which tonearm model it is and also how to dampen the "cue". It seems TT has been on shelve for some year so could need a bit of silicon oil in the damping mechanism. It looks like an easy DIY-task.
I was also looking at a Michell Gyro SE when I was searching for a TT. But then it starts to be expensive as the Michell was without a tonearm etc.
Clearaudio makes one of the "furniture TT's" that just stands at the floor and the weight is 3-400 kg.
Micro Seiki RX-1500 / RX-2000 also nice tables.
I was also looking at a Michell Gyro SE when I was searching for a TT. But then it starts to be expensive as the Michell was without a tonearm etc.
Clearaudio makes one of the "furniture TT's" that just stands at the floor and the weight is 3-400 kg.
Micro Seiki RX-1500 / RX-2000 also nice tables.
I'm sorry but my post was misleading. The SP-10 in the photos is not original version. Probably Mk 2 (can't see the power supply). $4000 is not unreasonable for table, plinth, tonearm, and power supply. If it hasn't been refurbished, you should probably do that. Restoration is straight forward for the Mk 2. The Mk2a and Mk 3 are not quite as easy.
Here are a couple threads with more details:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/the-incredible-technics-sp-10-thread.261735/
and
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/the-incredible-technics-sp-10-mk3-thread.275613/
I started playing the test-record I got recently. Everything about phase, channel balance, cross talk were ok.
Then I continued with tracking capability. 40, 50, 60 um were fine. But 70 um there was a little bit of distortion in right channel. Then I raised the antiskating one step end then 70 um was fine. Also 80 um. Maybe just a very faint distorsion. 90 um was distorted. But now I can't raise AS anymore as I am in the last groove. I could add some weight to the "weight". Is there a recommended method to do this (that also looks good
)?
I took if off to put it on a precision scale. It says 1.85g incl. the thin nylon thread. I could also just get a 2g or 2.6g.....or both.
I have a digital scale on the way to measure the cartridge VTF. So before experimenting a lot I will be sure the VTF is correct.
I don't think the arm / cartridge will be able to track at 100 um......but maybe 90 um with a bit of luck.
Then I continued with tracking capability. 40, 50, 60 um were fine. But 70 um there was a little bit of distortion in right channel. Then I raised the antiskating one step end then 70 um was fine. Also 80 um. Maybe just a very faint distorsion. 90 um was distorted. But now I can't raise AS anymore as I am in the last groove. I could add some weight to the "weight". Is there a recommended method to do this (that also looks good
)?I took if off to put it on a precision scale. It says 1.85g incl. the thin nylon thread. I could also just get a 2g or 2.6g.....or both.
I have a digital scale on the way to measure the cartridge VTF. So before experimenting a lot I will be sure the VTF is correct.
I don't think the arm / cartridge will be able to track at 100 um......but maybe 90 um with a bit of luck.
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Nope. That’s a Mk2.
Yes. Mk3 are a whole lot more expensive. Notably so.
Yes. But now you are talking about good used car money.
I was about to try to level the tonearm on my Miracord TT.
It seems it is done by loosening the screw at the back of the tonearm base as picture shows.
First......is it 100% sure that it is the way to do it?
It is an M6 screw and a 3mm hex key fits. I have a 3mm hex key with a handle so I can apply a lot of torque.
The problem is that I don't want to apply more torque than I did. It sits really tight.
I have a feeling that they could have used thread lock (like e.g. Loctite). The arm is factory adjusted to a specific cartridge. So it could be the case?
It is a steel screw in aluminium so it could also just be "stuck" by some oxidation.
What do you think?
If thread lock then acetone could dilute it. If oxidation then thin oil could help?
What to try first?
I think it would be quite stupid if the factory has used thread lock......
It is strange that no google search hits "something" about the topic......
I have sent a mail to Elac but it can take days before they respond......if they ever do.
I have sent a couple of mails to them before and never got a response.
It is a nice TT but their costumer service is "non existing".....so far......
It seems it is done by loosening the screw at the back of the tonearm base as picture shows.
First......is it 100% sure that it is the way to do it?
It is an M6 screw and a 3mm hex key fits. I have a 3mm hex key with a handle so I can apply a lot of torque.
The problem is that I don't want to apply more torque than I did. It sits really tight.
I have a feeling that they could have used thread lock (like e.g. Loctite). The arm is factory adjusted to a specific cartridge. So it could be the case?
It is a steel screw in aluminium so it could also just be "stuck" by some oxidation.
What do you think?
If thread lock then acetone could dilute it. If oxidation then thin oil could help?
What to try first?
I think it would be quite stupid if the factory has used thread lock......
It is strange that no google search hits "something" about the topic......
I have sent a mail to Elac but it can take days before they respond......if they ever do.
I have sent a couple of mails to them before and never got a response.
It is a nice TT but their costumer service is "non existing".....so far......
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Now I got response back from Elac in Germany regarding the tight screw:
Here is the response:
**********************
"The grub screw is designed in such a way that it cuts into the tube of the tonearm mounting in order to create a perfect ground connection at this point. This requires a little more torque to “safely” break through the anodized material.
- A long (15-20cm) Allen key with a T-handle is best suited for this. This is the best way to put pressure on the screw (to prevent it from slipping) and turn it at the same time. The large length of the tool helps to transfer the force to the screw for loosening.
- An angled Allen key also works. To do this, insert the short side into the screw head and use the long side (15-20cm) as a lever to loosen it. However, it is important to ensure that the tool does not work its way out of the screw head due to the high leverage. When “leveraging”, sufficient pressure must be exerted on the screw head at the same time.
The screws are very tight! We know that, and it cannot be avoided at this point."
************************
I will measure if I have secured the screw enough after adjusting (if tonearm is grounded as it should).
Here is the response:
**********************
"The grub screw is designed in such a way that it cuts into the tube of the tonearm mounting in order to create a perfect ground connection at this point. This requires a little more torque to “safely” break through the anodized material.
- A long (15-20cm) Allen key with a T-handle is best suited for this. This is the best way to put pressure on the screw (to prevent it from slipping) and turn it at the same time. The large length of the tool helps to transfer the force to the screw for loosening.
- An angled Allen key also works. To do this, insert the short side into the screw head and use the long side (15-20cm) as a lever to loosen it. However, it is important to ensure that the tool does not work its way out of the screw head due to the high leverage. When “leveraging”, sufficient pressure must be exerted on the screw head at the same time.
The screws are very tight! We know that, and it cannot be avoided at this point."
************************
I will measure if I have secured the screw enough after adjusting (if tonearm is grounded as it should).
I have such unit underway to me. A replacement PSU instead of the small SMPS that original followed the TT.
I asked elac.de if they would recommend to "upgrade" the PSU. I had expected an answer like that I should not do that and that warranty would not cover the TT anymore etc. But he attached the picture below and recommended to do it. It is from a company called Sbooster. They do PSU for various HiFi products. Then I found a HiFi shop in Germany (with help form Elac) that had it in stock and it has been shipped.
I just still wonder how much of a difference this can do. If the small SMPS is able to keep the platter stable and within specs then how can this bigger and probably more silent PSU improve the sound?
The cartridge circuit does not use the PSU. They share chassis ground probably and if the SMPS creates some ground noise it can of course affect the cartridge signal. But other than that.........but now I try it as it was recommended.
I wonder about replacement belts?
Do you get them when it is needed or does they store well when they are not used so you can have them "on shelf" for several years?
I asked elac.de if they would recommend to "upgrade" the PSU. I had expected an answer like that I should not do that and that warranty would not cover the TT anymore etc. But he attached the picture below and recommended to do it. It is from a company called Sbooster. They do PSU for various HiFi products. Then I found a HiFi shop in Germany (with help form Elac) that had it in stock and it has been shipped.
I just still wonder how much of a difference this can do. If the small SMPS is able to keep the platter stable and within specs then how can this bigger and probably more silent PSU improve the sound?
The cartridge circuit does not use the PSU. They share chassis ground probably and if the SMPS creates some ground noise it can of course affect the cartridge signal. But other than that.........but now I try it as it was recommended.
I wonder about replacement belts?
Do you get them when it is needed or does they store well when they are not used so you can have them "on shelf" for several years?
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I had a belt in my Linn LP12 for over 25 years with no issues. It was replaced when the technician installed the Lingo and then recently when the Karousel was installed.
Linn belts are best stored in Highlands single malt whisky. Or maybe it's the owner that gets stored that way... I don't remember, but I have listened to the same belt in the LP12 while drinking countless gallons of single malt whisky over the years with no untoward slips -or falls.
I think you're worrying too much.
Ok, then I will get a couple gallons of Macallan 25 or maybe 18 can do it.
As a contrast I also like Lagavulin and Talisker.......and many others........Springbank also good.
I was just worried they were "out of belts" when I needed it.
I got the new upgrade PSU installed and it runs. But I have not yet had time for a longer listening test.
As a contrast I also like Lagavulin and Talisker.......and many others........Springbank also good.
I was just worried they were "out of belts" when I needed it.
I got the new upgrade PSU installed and it runs. But I have not yet had time for a longer listening test.
Glenlivet, Glen Moray and Glenmorangie are the brands that I have up front... there are more in the 2nd and 3rd rows. I tend to like the ones with aging in port and sherry casks. Nost of them are around 12 years old and have reached a balanced between smoothness and bouquet where we drink them in them fancy sniffer glasses. She Who Must Be Kept Happy bought us some special one for the Highlands and Isles... (*)
Talisker is an acquired taste. I like its saltiness but my wife doesn't.
I'm pretty sure there are a couple of Lagavulin bottles in the "storage closet"... most likely 12 and 15.
She prefers the sweetness of the port barrel aged.
Macallan 25, actually the brand, is simply way overpriced, IMHO. I was given a bottle for Christmas and for my taste it was a bit on the sweet side.
If you have enough scotch whisky, you will always have enough to belt down. ( An American Idiom... "to belt" is to gulp booze fast ).
(*) Did you know there are specialized glasses for whiskeys from different parts of Scotland? Crazy huh? Their cuisine is haggis but their whisky is sublime.
Talisker is an acquired taste. I like its saltiness but my wife doesn't.
I'm pretty sure there are a couple of Lagavulin bottles in the "storage closet"... most likely 12 and 15.
She prefers the sweetness of the port barrel aged.
Macallan 25, actually the brand, is simply way overpriced, IMHO. I was given a bottle for Christmas and for my taste it was a bit on the sweet side.
If you have enough scotch whisky, you will always have enough to belt down. ( An American Idiom... "to belt" is to gulp booze fast ).
(*) Did you know there are specialized glasses for whiskeys from different parts of Scotland? Crazy huh? Their cuisine is haggis but their whisky is sublime.
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A classic Lagavulin is 16 years old. They also make a version that has got some months in Sherry casks (very good!).
I don't think you can get it in "casks strengths" but a lot has happened recent years introducing new types.
Back in time a Talisker was 10 years old but they also produce other variants. I have been there a couple of times and also at Islay to visit Lagavulin and Laphroaig. It can be quite "windy" over there........I found out.
Yes, Macallan is very nice but expensive. Most settle for a 12 years version.
The glass I use is the standard tasting glass they use many places when you visit a distillery. A glass like this:
You must try a Springbank some day!
I don't think you can get it in "casks strengths" but a lot has happened recent years introducing new types.
Back in time a Talisker was 10 years old but they also produce other variants. I have been there a couple of times and also at Islay to visit Lagavulin and Laphroaig. It can be quite "windy" over there........I found out.
Yes, Macallan is very nice but expensive. Most settle for a 12 years version.
The glass I use is the standard tasting glass they use many places when you visit a distillery. A glass like this:
You must try a Springbank some day!