The arm weight must match the compliance of the cartridge you want to use. If there is a miss match there, performance will likely suffer. This is the principal criteria. After that came head interchangeability, ease of use, etc. For exemple, Denon DL 103 or Ortofon SPU will not perform there best on an light arm made for Audio technica AT 150 or Ortofon 2m black.
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Big rig is Technics SP10 mk2 with SME V and ZYX Airy 3. @6L6 is the foremost SP10 ambassador and cheerleader.
Little rig is a crappy 70's Sansui belt drive with Shelter 901. I have a SOTA Nova and SME IV that will replace that when a shelf is ready. This shelf is taking longer than expected, but I trust it will be beautiful when the fabricator is done.
Never played with an SL1200 or SP10, back in the day Audiophiles kind of slammed them. Perhaps rightfully so, back then cogging was probably more of an issue. I recall B&O had a Flux(?) Drive, copper running thru magnetic field(?), kind of fuzzy at 4:30 AM, that was pretty interesting. Fast forward to today and I have been trying to get mgmt. to bring in the SL1200G, kind of want 1 as a second(?) table.
Sad to say that somewhere in storage I have a Goldmund ST4, wonderful and quite funky table, super PIA to get adjusted but to me it sounds like an old LP12, but with terrific bass, virtually 0 tracking distortion and rock solid sound stage/image.
Sad to say that somewhere in storage I have a Goldmund ST4, wonderful and quite funky table, super PIA to get adjusted but to me it sounds like an old LP12, but with terrific bass, virtually 0 tracking distortion and rock solid sound stage/image.
I was at Nordsø Records today to have a look at a couple of records. I observed they sold a test records and I grabbed it. It was the only one.
Seems to be German but instruction in both German and English. I need to read it all (and understand) before I play it. Will be interesting!
I got a couple of jazz records. Purchased "blind" as I did not know the bands. I asked and got a "hint". One "normal" jazz and another experimental 2 x mezzo sax. I took it but I think I need to be very relaxed when I put it on the table. Probably not yet "jazz-prepared/educated" for this yet.
Other one is jazz like this:
What do you think?
Seems to be German but instruction in both German and English. I need to read it all (and understand) before I play it. Will be interesting!
I got a couple of jazz records. Purchased "blind" as I did not know the bands. I asked and got a "hint". One "normal" jazz and another experimental 2 x mezzo sax. I took it but I think I need to be very relaxed when I put it on the table. Probably not yet "jazz-prepared/educated" for this yet.
Other one is jazz like this:
What do you think?
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I received the P3 Kit chassis and I have started to see how I can place transformer, UDP3 board in a relative intelligent way.
Think I will install the spade connectors and use those instead of the terminal blocks.
The steel chassis top and bottom have the well known "lips" so to be sure not to conflict with those I installed the IEC from inside (as I did with iron pre). But this time hole is large enough so IEC can be installed from outside. Think there is just enough space for the "lips" to install IEC also from outside. I just did it "my way".
Now as I use UDP3 board and need to drill holes for this board I don't care about the pre-drilled holes but just wondered about how close one of the holes is to the IEC. The "lips" has to be at the back to go around the back panel.
Think I will install the spade connectors and use those instead of the terminal blocks.
The steel chassis top and bottom have the well known "lips" so to be sure not to conflict with those I installed the IEC from inside (as I did with iron pre). But this time hole is large enough so IEC can be installed from outside. Think there is just enough space for the "lips" to install IEC also from outside. I just did it "my way".
Now as I use UDP3 board and need to drill holes for this board I don't care about the pre-drilled holes but just wondered about how close one of the holes is to the IEC. The "lips" has to be at the back to go around the back panel.
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I don't install the on/off/ switch and led at front panel to have as simple wiring as possible.
I will use the hole in front panel to eventually "catch" the light from the green onboard LEDs if I am in doubt if board is "on" 🙂
I will use the hole in front panel to eventually "catch" the light from the green onboard LEDs if I am in doubt if board is "on" 🙂
Looking at post #997 in Pearl3 thread to see how the P3 kit PSU board is made and how it is mounted in a chassis I think I can conclude that in the steel chassis kit the pre-drilled holes has been "turned" 180 degree.......but I will not make noise about this in P3 thread......as I could be wrong.....and I need to drill new holes anyway!
I just realized that the green terminal blocks for UDP3 is very intelligent made. They close parallel so it can take thin wires. Then it can close directly on the wires from power cable and transformer.
I just realized that the green terminal blocks for UDP3 is very intelligent made. They close parallel so it can take thin wires. Then it can close directly on the wires from power cable and transformer.
The PSU mounting holes are 180deg wrong? Also, the photo you are referencing is Randy’s, and that chassis had a blank floor plate, he drilled it himself.
And as somebody brought up SP-10, yes, they are incredible tables. Absolutely incredible, if you get one you’ll shake your head and wonder why you bothered with anything different. They just work, and sound better than every other table I have ever heard.
And as somebody brought up SP-10, yes, they are incredible tables. Absolutely incredible, if you get one you’ll shake your head and wonder why you bothered with anything different. They just work, and sound better than every other table I have ever heard.
The “lips” touch the inside of the front panel, not the outside of the rear.
The back panel fits flush with the top and bottom panels when installed correctly.
About the holes:
I think the four holes for the PSU board.......the placement looks stange....like they are 180 degree wrong......or am I 180 degree wrong today?
Also the single hole for yellow/green looks a bit far away?
These steel cover can only be turned one way (caused by the "lips".....they bended in one end).
I think the four holes for the PSU board.......the placement looks stange....like they are 180 degree wrong......or am I 180 degree wrong today?
Also the single hole for yellow/green looks a bit far away?
These steel cover can only be turned one way (caused by the "lips".....they bended in one end).
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The EPA-100 is amongst the best arms ever made. Ruby bearings, dynamic damping, very fine tolerance. The Technics broadcast-grade turntables and associated gear were, and still are, reference grade. The very best engineers they had designed these, and this was pre-CD, so it was the “ultimate” source.
Ok, he writes it is without the original head shell for the tonearm.
If I did not have my own TT yet I could have grabbed this one.
It is just a couple of km from where I live.
If I did not have my own TT yet I could have grabbed this one.
It is just a couple of km from where I live.
