Hi promitheus,
thank you for the parts, i also received them and built 4 channels. The PCBs are very nice quality and were easy to solder due to the grid groundplane.
Now all i need is a transformer and cases for my double-stereo set who fit under my players.
And some 47k resistors for R1, that should fit for the concorde system.
Is the quality of R1 very important for the sound?
The attached pic shows the assembled parts for one mono channel.
Greetings
Ralf
thank you for the parts, i also received them and built 4 channels. The PCBs are very nice quality and were easy to solder due to the grid groundplane.
Now all i need is a transformer and cases for my double-stereo set who fit under my players.
And some 47k resistors for R1, that should fit for the concorde system.
Is the quality of R1 very important for the sound?
The attached pic shows the assembled parts for one mono channel.
Greetings
Ralf
Attachments
promitheus said:
Even the best cost 1€ piece. Its only 2 pieces
OK, to keep it as you selected the parts i´m gonna use Farnell Nr. 340789 WELWYN 47k 0,1% 0,25W Metalfilm
For the capacitive load by C14 and C16 (Ortofon suggests 200-600pF for the Concorde Pro) i plan to use Farnell Nr. 3040008 LCR COMPONENTS 390pf 1% polystyrene Capacitor and the same as 200pf in parallel.
Is polystyrene known for good sound?
Did anyone experiment with different materials for C14 and C16, maybe with polypropylene WIMA FKP2 series?
Thanks for your efforts,
Ralf
My favorite ist the XLR connector.
You can use thicker cables and you need to drill a round hole.
The best solution is to use a 4 or 5 pin XLR so you can transfer the voltages separately. The most important is not to mix up the grounds from the 2 power supplies, so you dont have any ground loops.
You can use thicker cables and you need to drill a round hole.
The best solution is to use a 4 or 5 pin XLR so you can transfer the voltages separately. The most important is not to mix up the grounds from the 2 power supplies, so you dont have any ground loops.
That is propably the best way to go. I did use a SUBD connection though. No ill effects whatsoever Explanation here:My favorite ist the XLR connector.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=44878&highlight= I used SUBD mainly because I had to supply both the BosoZ and the Pearl, and didnt want too many cables. Works just fine
Steen
Edit, the SUBD's are with goldplated pins and sockets.
Using the same type of connector for power and signal is what I would consider unfortunate, pretty much a "no way".
Imagine what happens if (when) somebody connects the power to signal?
Now the DB25 could in theory also be connected to a com port on a computer, but the risk that will happen by accident is pretty slim.
Magura
Imagine what happens if (when) somebody connects the power to signal?
Now the DB25 could in theory also be connected to a com port on a computer, but the risk that will happen by accident is pretty slim.
Magura
The DSUB is only used for the power supply Signal is comming in from goldplated RCA's! If that was your concernUsing the same type of connector for power and signal is what I would consider unfortunate, pretty much a "no way".
Steen
Ohh, ofcourse Francois, I see that clearly now Thanks a lot. With a DSUB for the supply, that would never have happened I hate to say it, but Magura is right As a matter of fact my supply is comming from a DSUB25, you can not put that in the RCA sockets So I guess I am on the safe side?I think he is basically saying that some people could accidentally use the XLR connector (to power the Pearl) as an signal input/output. In any case, using a 4 or 5 pins connector will be safe with regural 3 pins XLR.
Steen
Connection....
I used a 4 pole XLR for the pearl I build for a friend - I like the stable "feel" of a XLR - once you have plugged it in, its not gonna go anywhere....
I have soldered some 25 pin SUB-D in our recording studio, and it was a heck of a work, the space is small, and it does not accept thick cables, even though it was "studio grade" connectors with die cast metal housings.
If you dont want XLR, what about SpeakOn ? standard comes in 4 pole, and there is also an 8 pole - it also locks in place, which I like, the only problem is if a PA audio dude hooks up a 1200 watts poweramp to your RIAA ;-)
Cheers !
Hans - signing off for holiday in spain.....
I used a 4 pole XLR for the pearl I build for a friend - I like the stable "feel" of a XLR - once you have plugged it in, its not gonna go anywhere....
I have soldered some 25 pin SUB-D in our recording studio, and it was a heck of a work, the space is small, and it does not accept thick cables, even though it was "studio grade" connectors with die cast metal housings.
If you dont want XLR, what about SpeakOn ? standard comes in 4 pole, and there is also an 8 pole - it also locks in place, which I like, the only problem is if a PA audio dude hooks up a 1200 watts poweramp to your RIAA ;-)
Cheers !
Hans - signing off for holiday in spain.....
Nonetheless, in the end you have to hook up your gear What do you suggest then, to avoid any faults? I did make a decision as said earlier, DSUB25 for the supply and RCA's for signal. Ofcourse you can hook up the supply cable to a PC with a DSUB25 connector, but what the heck Who would ever try a thing like that, except for the girlie thingie.... I dont think it would ruin anything though.5 pin XLR is just as bad an idea, as plenty of older equipment is using 5 pin XLR for signal
Steen
Thats why I used two leads for each pole Thats affordable with 25 connectionsand it does not accept thick cables,
Have a nice trip, Hans Wish it was me, but I guess I used up my holidays in Tunesia earlier onHans - signing off for holiday in spain.....
Steen
The DSUB25 is a good solution.
The requirements for the connector are simple. It should not be found in any other place in an audiosystem. It should be able to carry the load. Finally it should not be too much of an odd fish, in order to be able to obtain a spare in a few years when the Mrs. have snapped it clean off the chassis with the vaccuum cleaner
Magura
The requirements for the connector are simple. It should not be found in any other place in an audiosystem. It should be able to carry the load. Finally it should not be too much of an odd fish, in order to be able to obtain a spare in a few years when the Mrs. have snapped it clean off the chassis with the vaccuum cleaner
Magura
I better get a few spares then Otherwise, as always, you are rightFianlly it should not be too much of an odd fish, in order to be able to obtain a spare in a few years when the Mrs. have snapped it clean off the chassis with the vaccuum cleaner
Steen
steenoe said:Thats why I used two leads for each pole Thats affordable with 25 connections
Have a nice trip, Hans Wish it was me, but I guess I used up my holidays in Tunesia earlier on
Steen
Yes, theres plenty of pins to solder on, the problem for me was the space around them, and in the neck of the connector.....But it was a couple of years ago, and my soldering skills could have improved since then......a little scary to be away from my soldering station and DIY for almost a month......I fear a will have a zillion of new ideas when I get home.....
Steen, are you really that busy building ships here in the summertime, that you only have 2 weeks of holiday ?? What about fishing ???
Cheers!
Hans - who's bringing both spinning and fly fishing rods on holiday..
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