If you ask me, I think you should run on pensil. You will get a lovely bass sound with a fantastic mid range. Go for that.
I have tried the 11MS in different sized rooms and they have worked well in all of them. From 10m2 to 25m2.
I have tried the 11MS in different sized rooms and they have worked well in all of them. From 10m2 to 25m2.
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The carpet design is very good btw...Hi Acko, I found all information on the internet and it's free to the public.
I use it for making and designing the building plans and also I looked at how to damp this speaker.
Just find it in my previous posts here: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/pearl-acoustic-sibelius.378803/post-7527630
If you want to built the Sibelius Clone like I did you don't regret of it.
At SoundImports there are 5 drivers on stock.
https://www.soundimports.eu/en/markaudio-alpair-10-gold.html
I also have a matched pair of the MAOP11 Gen.2 and I likt to build also something nice for them in the future.
HelloElfriede,
What type of musical genres do you prefer?
And what amplifier do you plan to pair with the speakers?
Music preferences
Jazz, Classic, Chamber Music, vocals, „world music“. Sometimes I listen to Rock and Pop, no Hard Rock
Currently I run an old Lector VFI 70 (35 Watts at 8 Ohms) and an old Exposure VII/VIII
I like to listen to lower volume, the speakers should already sound dynamic at a lower level. I listened to some other speakers where they only got envolving on a higher volume level.
And, I like to listen between 1 (3 feet) and 2 (6 feet) meters listening distance
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3 feet distance is within nearfield; 6 feet would be close to semi nearfield.
Smaller drivers might also do the trick for you (like the Pluvia 7), but might lack the low frequency impact. Let others chime in.
For 5.25" category you can also take a look at the Pluvia 11 in addition to the Alpair 11MS.
Smaller drivers might also do the trick for you (like the Pluvia 7), but might lack the low frequency impact. Let others chime in.
For 5.25" category you can also take a look at the Pluvia 11 in addition to the Alpair 11MS.
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That close, narrow directivity of a fullrange driver becomes serious, as well as lack of low-bass reinforcement from room.
At the foot of my bed there's a collection of up-firing tall cans and LX-configured pairs; and the close wall built-up as quasi-OB/rear-horn for various vintage drivers. (There are pics in the gallery.)
At the foot of my bed there's a collection of up-firing tall cans and LX-configured pairs; and the close wall built-up as quasi-OB/rear-horn for various vintage drivers. (There are pics in the gallery.)
...or as Dave suggests, organ music.
For that I'll need a pair of Kleinhorns... and a much bigger room. ;-)
For that I'll need a pair of Kleinhorns... and a much bigger room. ;-)
Well I am ready to chime in and after reading some of these recent posts and I wish we could have a shootout between the original and the clones.
I just dropped of my cabinets using the Homdasnl design to my refinisher and asked if he could do them in a gloss black finish? My cabinets were professionally built by a custom speaker manufacturer in Toronto Canada and cost approximately $900 USD in parts and labor.
They were constructed in Baltic birch and I had to use a thinner layer than what the plans called for. If I went with the same thickness the price almost doubled. So mine will be a little unique due to the thickness of the wood and adapting them to the dimensions of Hondasnl plans. They won’t be exactly like the originals but I think I am in the ballpark and would be happy with those results at 1/5 the cost.
So, am ready to throw down the gauntlet and if anyone who has the originals, is also up to a shootout challenge, then I am up for it. It’s not so much to be confrontational, but more of a quest to satisfy my curiosity in order to see just exactly how much of a difference, if any can be perceived in a objective blindfold test???
Any takers???
I just dropped of my cabinets using the Homdasnl design to my refinisher and asked if he could do them in a gloss black finish? My cabinets were professionally built by a custom speaker manufacturer in Toronto Canada and cost approximately $900 USD in parts and labor.
They were constructed in Baltic birch and I had to use a thinner layer than what the plans called for. If I went with the same thickness the price almost doubled. So mine will be a little unique due to the thickness of the wood and adapting them to the dimensions of Hondasnl plans. They won’t be exactly like the originals but I think I am in the ballpark and would be happy with those results at 1/5 the cost.
So, am ready to throw down the gauntlet and if anyone who has the originals, is also up to a shootout challenge, then I am up for it. It’s not so much to be confrontational, but more of a quest to satisfy my curiosity in order to see just exactly how much of a difference, if any can be perceived in a objective blindfold test???
Any takers???
Let them play for a few days and you don't regret of them.
You can add some long hair wool like I did if needed (Edit: you can see it on the drawing and pictures).
Looking forward to you experiences. 👍
You can add some long hair wool like I did if needed (Edit: you can see it on the drawing and pictures).
Looking forward to you experiences. 👍
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My refinished sad it will be at least three weeks before he can get to them, so they will probably be coming home in a few months but they will be worth the wait.
I already have the 10.3 drivers and binding posts wire etc. I also have two bags of the filler material and the acoustic wool was installed while the cabinets weee being constructed.
The one question that keeps popping into my brain is how critical is all of this stuff overall, in terms of deviating a little from the cabinet specs, using a driver with round verses square voice coil wire, filling the stuffing to a lower level, etc.
My guess is that it does not make that much of a difference depending on how much deviation from the plans are incorporated in your final product.
In other words, if you make a minor change from the plans, will that translate into a 42hz low end drop off as compared to the 39hz drop off of an original unit?
And if that was the case, could you actually hear it in a blindfold test?
I already have the 10.3 drivers and binding posts wire etc. I also have two bags of the filler material and the acoustic wool was installed while the cabinets weee being constructed.
The one question that keeps popping into my brain is how critical is all of this stuff overall, in terms of deviating a little from the cabinet specs, using a driver with round verses square voice coil wire, filling the stuffing to a lower level, etc.
My guess is that it does not make that much of a difference depending on how much deviation from the plans are incorporated in your final product.
In other words, if you make a minor change from the plans, will that translate into a 42hz low end drop off as compared to the 39hz drop off of an original unit?
And if that was the case, could you actually hear it in a blindfold test?
Great effort, well done 👍…
They were constructed in Baltic birch and I had to use a thinner layer than what the plans called for. If I went with the same thickness the price almost doubled. So mine will be a little unique due to the thickness of the wood and adapting them to the dimensions of Hondasnl plans. They won’t be exactly like the originals but I think I am in the ballpark and would be happy with those results at 1/5 the cost.
As for thickness of panels, the original Sibelius use 24mm for their Baltic birch type and 32mm for oak wood version. So, depending on your actual thickness selected may be alright with this ‘deviation’
The one question that keeps popping into my brain is how critical is all of this stuff overall, in terms of deviating a little from the cabinet specs, using a driver with round verses square voice coil wire, filling the stuffing to a lower level, etc.
There are much more significant differences that affect the enclosure alignment between the Sibilus driver and the A10.3. While quarter-wave enclosures tend to be more tolerant of different drivers, an optimum enclosure is still better. Damping is used to tune the box to your room & tastes (ie less if you like too much bottom, or more if you find the ripple annoying or the bass too much in your room
I am pretty sure that A 10.3 Pensil or FHXL will outperform the same drivers in a Sibilus clone/eductaed guess.
dave
@planet10 I still love my sealed A7.3's. Have you ever tested the Mark Audio's in a nautilus style tapering tube, where the back energy is all absorbed (as much as feasible). As a true A/B test of what the driver is doing vs the cabinet?
I can't help thinking that you are right about the above, and that the Pensil would probably be a better choice without having the Pearl's tweaked specs.
Maybe someone nice can draw up the Pencil plans in 30mm solid timber to have the aesthetics (which is probably why most people like the Pearls) with the correct dimensions?
I can't help thinking that you are right about the above, and that the Pensil would probably be a better choice without having the Pearl's tweaked specs.
Maybe someone nice can draw up the Pencil plans in 30mm solid timber to have the aesthetics (which is probably why most people like the Pearls) with the correct dimensions?
Keep the internal dimensions as-designed. The only variation is external. Effective vent length will be greater than designed, but with this particular alignment the difference in tuning is minimal & will be completely swamped by variations in room acoustics, listening position & amount of damping used (it's adjustable in the pensils by design).
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