Aha! Good information.
0.0065V * 200 = 1.3V
1.3V to 24V is a difference of 25db. Still plenty
0.0065V * 200 = 1.3V
1.3V to 24V is a difference of 25db. Still plenty
Boydk: Raised the issue of "new" cartridge status above and would like to know if AT sends out cartridges in sealed containers. Denon and Ortofon do, Hana does not. Have received one Hana cartridge sold to me as new that was clearly used and another that was questionable. Without the correct microscope it's hard to determine the actual state of the needle. Are there any other ways to ensure you are getting what you paid for?
Question is: Do you trust the seller??
If yes...... then there´s no issue.
If no, buy somewhere else.
Audio Technica (at least those MC´s I´ve bought), have a seal, you need to cut/break to open the box. The cheap MM´s are not sealed.
but pretty difficult to open the outher hardboard box without it being visible.
That said...... I´ve never in 50+ years bought a new cartridge at a dealership, that was opened/used, and then camouflaged as being
unopened 😉
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@Boydk I completely agree.... cartridges are one of the very few things I only buy new from a dealer. Even if nowadays we have to order them and wait.
There are too many things that can go wrong and dealers provide warranty and support... and in the case of the Grados you get the trade in...
Now, some dealers will also make deals.... but they are reputable dealers.
That means... no online cartridge shopping for me.
OK, I suppose I might buy a cartridge from the likes of Zu Audio.... but there's always the risk of "finger pointing" if something goes wrong.
There are too many things that can go wrong and dealers provide warranty and support... and in the case of the Grados you get the trade in...
Now, some dealers will also make deals.... but they are reputable dealers.
That means... no online cartridge shopping for me.
OK, I suppose I might buy a cartridge from the likes of Zu Audio.... but there's always the risk of "finger pointing" if something goes wrong.
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The case where I was sent a used cartridge sold as new was from an established West Coast dealer.
This same dealer sold me a "new" Prime TT that came in a clearly-labeled "refurbished" box. Had to contact VPI and they actually forced this dealer to send me the proper Prime.
Have not had good luck with audio dealers and the Hana ML purchased recently was shipped directly from the West Coast distributor. It came with no seal. This dealer knew I needed a second one and offered me one he had been using for some time in his salon. When i declined he advertised it on his e-mail list as "open box."
Am always looking for a reputable dealer and if anyone knows one for Hana cartridges in the USA their recco will be appreciated.
This same dealer sold me a "new" Prime TT that came in a clearly-labeled "refurbished" box. Had to contact VPI and they actually forced this dealer to send me the proper Prime.
Have not had good luck with audio dealers and the Hana ML purchased recently was shipped directly from the West Coast distributor. It came with no seal. This dealer knew I needed a second one and offered me one he had been using for some time in his salon. When i declined he advertised it on his e-mail list as "open box."
Am always looking for a reputable dealer and if anyone knows one for Hana cartridges in the USA their recco will be appreciated.
And then, there´s the "good ones" ...... even in China/HongKong.
Over the years I´ve bought 5 cartirdges and my 12" Jelco HERE
Lot´s of scribble and conspiracy theories on the web regarding 2juki, but everything I´ve got from him has been genuine and unopened 😉
Hello,
The Pearl 3 that I built and measured has BOM value parts, other than the Op-Amp being a OPA1656. Using my AP analyzer the Pearl 3 "low" gain setting measured just a fraction over 50dB. My target would be more like 36 dB.
The goal at least for me would be to spread the gain across the amplification chain; Pre-Pre-Amp (Pearl 3) => Pre-Amp / Line stage => power amp.
Currently I am using the Ortofon 2M Blue cartridge.
With clicks and pops the Pearl 3 itself may not pin the output to the rails. However if the next amplification stage is a WAHMMY and if the WHAMMY input voltage is 10Volts RMS that would result in some serious clipping. A fix may be a resistive pot between the Pre-Pre-Amp and the Pre-Amp / line stage. If there is less Pre-Pre-Amp gain less resistive attenuation would be required.
I am speaking personal preference here, nothing bad about the Pearl 3.
Thanks DT
Guys,
I was talking about optical tables for VIBRATION control, NOT optical CARTRIDGES. Please check them out on Newport site. Good stuff, totally unaffiliated.
I was away and found the discussion going off the rail..
I like plowing of the LP with every listening session, the passage of time, and everything degrading in life. I came to accept it. Every time I listen to a record is not the same as it was as I am not the same. 🤣
I was talking about optical tables for VIBRATION control, NOT optical CARTRIDGES. Please check them out on Newport site. Good stuff, totally unaffiliated.
I was away and found the discussion going off the rail..
I like plowing of the LP with every listening session, the passage of time, and everything degrading in life. I came to accept it. Every time I listen to a record is not the same as it was as I am not the same. 🤣
I believe I have finally tracked down the source of the distortion (even after correcting the huge transistor error I made, spotted by 6L6).
My power supply is putting out far too much voltage according to the spec (measured from either rail to ground):
25v unloaded
22v loaded
I double checked and made sure I was using the BOM spec'd transformer (Talema 15v+15v/15a), and double checked that I had to-spec resistors in all the right places).
Is the right solution to get a lower voltage transformer, or am I missing something easier?
Thank you
My power supply is putting out far too much voltage according to the spec (measured from either rail to ground):
25v unloaded
22v loaded
I double checked and made sure I was using the BOM spec'd transformer (Talema 15v+15v/15a), and double checked that I had to-spec resistors in all the right places).
Is the right solution to get a lower voltage transformer, or am I missing something easier?
Thank you
@AkimoSD: If you are using the stock PSU it will produce those higher voltages that then get regulated down to 15 vdc on the two main boards. It is certainly not the problem. I am using Thatcher's Flex reg PSUs and can control them from 15 to 25 vdc fed into the main boards. None of those values have any effect on distortion.
Am assuming you are measuring the PSU directly and not the voltage on the two main boards.
Suggest you look at the individual values of your parts; cannot think of any other cause. Don't remember...did you check the continuity for the SMDs?
Am assuming you are measuring the PSU directly and not the voltage on the two main boards.
Suggest you look at the individual values of your parts; cannot think of any other cause. Don't remember...did you check the continuity for the SMDs?
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The Philosophy of the Calculus. Likely one of the best parts of all of science - outside of Physics, of course.
@AkimoSD: After some thought I suggest you should look at your solder joints. Loose/intermittent connections can cause distortion. Start with the SMDs and carefully place a drop of solder on each leg -- after it is heated. If you have a SMD soldering heat gun this is easier and more secure. They are not expensive on Amazon.
Also, the Mend It Mark You Tube videos show Mark soldering in exemplary fashion. You can use his SMD soldering examples as a means of developing technique. Here's a good one for this purpose:
Also, the Mend It Mark You Tube videos show Mark soldering in exemplary fashion. You can use his SMD soldering examples as a means of developing technique. Here's a good one for this purpose:
@tonyEE and @grataku :
Yesterday I was loading some new/used vinyl on the player and I kept thinking "not knowing if this is going to be a keeper or not is fun." With a CD you drop it in and play and expect perfection. But with a 1960s jazz record there are an infinite number of playback feelings.
So, when you get near perfection it's time for a lap snuggle with that favorite spaniel, right? Got one of those yesterday with the closest to perfect album I have yet encountered, the 2022 reissue of "Workin' with the Miles Davis Quintet" Prestige CR00608. Told Boydk about this and, of course, he had one of the original pressings from 1964.
If you haven't heard this one give yourself a treat and load it up...
Yesterday I was loading some new/used vinyl on the player and I kept thinking "not knowing if this is going to be a keeper or not is fun." With a CD you drop it in and play and expect perfection. But with a 1960s jazz record there are an infinite number of playback feelings.
So, when you get near perfection it's time for a lap snuggle with that favorite spaniel, right? Got one of those yesterday with the closest to perfect album I have yet encountered, the 2022 reissue of "Workin' with the Miles Davis Quintet" Prestige CR00608. Told Boydk about this and, of course, he had one of the original pressings from 1964.
If you haven't heard this one give yourself a treat and load it up...
Craigl59,
Thanks for the ideas. Unfortunately, I'm still in limbo. I used a cheap hot air soldering gun for the smd's and everything tested out okay with very clean looking solder joints. Since my eyesight is questionable, I had a much younger friend check the parts and joints with no areas of concern.
The only odd thing I'm aware of is that for R27, I get the lowest, but still distortiony audible output at 680R (2.78v). This seems like a lot of resistance since the kit shipped with a 220R as standard (at which value, I'm seeing far too much voltage and huge amounts of distortion).
Does this indicate anything?
Thanks
Thanks for the ideas. Unfortunately, I'm still in limbo. I used a cheap hot air soldering gun for the smd's and everything tested out okay with very clean looking solder joints. Since my eyesight is questionable, I had a much younger friend check the parts and joints with no areas of concern.
The only odd thing I'm aware of is that for R27, I get the lowest, but still distortiony audible output at 680R (2.78v). This seems like a lot of resistance since the kit shipped with a 220R as standard (at which value, I'm seeing far too much voltage and huge amounts of distortion).
Does this indicate anything?
Thanks
@AkimoSD: 2.78volts over R27 with a 680 ohm resistor is perfect. That means the actual voltage is 4.1 mA -- nicely within Randy's 3-5 mA range. You need to rethink your corrective process and ask yourself what other possibilities you haven't considered. Whenever I find the problem I always think "why didn't I try that earlier?" If you are certain about your soldering (and we have been able to ascertain the correct orientation of all transistors) that only leaves part problems. You might go ahead now and reorient the DIP switch just to make sure it is OK for the future. But as long as you are keeping it inactive, it will not be the culprit. Have you looked carefully at all the connecting cables and rca sockets? And checked the ground connections for security? A melted RCA terminal can cause distortion.
As @Craigl59 already pointed out..... This doesn´t indicate anything, and is within perfect of approx. 4mA.
And agree with you going back and meticously check everything. Since you have the error on both channels, there´s no
doubt in my mind, that you´ve made a mistake on both boards.
.
Example: On my second build when first tested, I used tiny little 1/8 watt old Philips metal film resistors. They are extremely small and hard to read
color rings. The gain was extremely low, and load settings did not do anything. What happened was, that some 100 ohm had mistakenly
fallen into the 1K ohm drawer and of course made it to the R9 position.
This can so easily happen, so what to do?
Meticously check and measure all resistors and be absolutely sure, that it´s the right value for every single one. Then check capacitor values.
Then check every single transistor, be sure they are "turned" the right way, and make sure you haven´t swapped NPN/PNP, fet for ZTX
and vice versa.
Make sure, the opamp is turned the right way too.
It´s a boring job, but if you don´t approach it carefully, you´ll probably have a hard time finding the fault. Upside is, when you find
it in one channel, it´s most likely the same in the other channel.
Regarding voltage, only one place to measure....... The output pin of 7815/7915 (the most right pin seen from the front on both). If you have approx.
+15 and -15, everything is fine. I received a batch of 7815 that only gives out 14,6 volt, and it doesn´t matter. Pearl-3 works perfectly anyway.
Crossing my fingers, and hope you´ll get it solved 👍
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