Regarding earth and chassis then until now all my metal audio chassis (PSU's included) has direct galvanic connection to the yellow/green wire and then signal gnd has connection to chassis via a NTC. If following strictly the P3 building guide only the PSU chassis will have green/yellow wire connected. But after reading the following posts it is ok to have a direct galvanic connection to earth from the PSU to the P3 chassis. And then also in P3 chassis have signal gnd connected to chassis via a NTC.
Curious what people think of Audioquest Directionality? I was somewhat skeptical about some of their practices, such as a battery connected to the shield, which seems like it is only connected at 1 end(?). A couple of years ago our AQ rep brought in 2 pairs of Type 9 speaker cable, 1 w/ DBS, I was quite surprised at the degree of apparent noise reduction.
My brain has also been "fooled" by an AQ salesperson and also other occasions where you can see and know which cable is connected (speaker, interconnects, power). I found out that the only way to avoid "brain fooling" is a correct executed double blind test.
I hear you, but this is an age old debate, and of course my take on it justifies my position, lol big surprise there! Part of the debate is that many of us use the creative side of our brain when we listen to music, people trained in music more likely to use the logical side, never keep them straight rt, lt??? When doing a double blind it is highly likely that you are using the logical side of your brain, sounds almost like the Heisenberg Uncertain Principle, we influence what we measure.
As for being fooled, that's in part why I have been asking about it here, but I really trust my ears in most regards. I was not a fan of AQ's cables prior to this demo, and the difference was not insignificant, until I bought into, hook, line and sinker, Garth's designs. I don't actually know if Garth was involved in the design of their DBS, up until now I just assumed it pre-dated his arrival at AQ.
I am not easily influenced by a vendor and if I don't like what I hear will either say so or lose interest fast. I'm also not really interested in changes that after evaluating I have to say, yeah, I think I heard a difference, although those little things can add up, but it seems more like work than fun.
As for being fooled, that's in part why I have been asking about it here, but I really trust my ears in most regards. I was not a fan of AQ's cables prior to this demo, and the difference was not insignificant, until I bought into, hook, line and sinker, Garth's designs. I don't actually know if Garth was involved in the design of their DBS, up until now I just assumed it pre-dated his arrival at AQ.
I am not easily influenced by a vendor and if I don't like what I hear will either say so or lose interest fast. I'm also not really interested in changes that after evaluating I have to say, yeah, I think I heard a difference, although those little things can add up, but it seems more like work than fun.
As an aside, as I understand it the DBS is only connected at 1 end. If there is a detectable difference, good or bad, wouldn't that lead back around to tying 1 end of the shield, source, to gnd?
I have a friend that is a "cable believer" and I am not. But when we experiment (just for fun) I hear the exact same difference that he does. The difference is that I know my brain has been fooled and I insist to change back and forward a lot of times until I find out that my brain was fooled.
If there really was such a big difference between two high quality cables it should be easy for a manufacture to prove it with measurements to backup their claims.......but they never do. But now this is not a "cable-thread"......but interesting topic........anyway 🙂
If there really was such a big difference between two high quality cables it should be easy for a manufacture to prove it with measurements to backup their claims.......but they never do. But now this is not a "cable-thread"......but interesting topic........anyway 🙂
Now P3 kit in Store has changed status to "low stock".
What does that mean? ....less than 10 ?
What does that mean? ....less than 10 ?
Wow less than 24 hours and they are already gone!
Yes, maybe we will see some people express their "sadness" about this.
I was able to control my greediness so only ordered 3 kits 🙂
I was able to control my greediness so only ordered 3 kits 🙂
I thought it said only 1 kit per customer per month? 🙂
I think Jim mentioned there were only 50 kits and that he had more parts but just needed PCBs, so I wouldn't expect a long wait for those who missed out.
For those who managed to snag a kit, happy building (soon).
I think Jim mentioned there were only 50 kits and that he had more parts but just needed PCBs, so I wouldn't expect a long wait for those who missed out.
For those who managed to snag a kit, happy building (soon).
Wow, the first time I wasn't too late
Hello PEARL 3 - builders
I put 10 Ohm - resistors between ground-output PSU (where audioground from PEARL 3 is attached) to earthground at IEC-inlet.
This slight groundlift has taken away all hum. It is deadsilent. So, I had pretty sure a groundloop. It was 50Hz-hum...
Happy Christmas! Especially to those 'greedy boyz' who were fast enough to grab a PEARL 3 - pioneerkit...
I can't wait, I can't wait,... 😆
Cheers
Dirk
I put 10 Ohm - resistors between ground-output PSU (where audioground from PEARL 3 is attached) to earthground at IEC-inlet.
This slight groundlift has taken away all hum. It is deadsilent. So, I had pretty sure a groundloop. It was 50Hz-hum...
Happy Christmas! Especially to those 'greedy boyz' who were fast enough to grab a PEARL 3 - pioneerkit...
I can't wait, I can't wait,... 😆
Cheers
Dirk
Attachments
The build guide refers to C8 default 220 uF, 3.2 Hz subsonic. Is there an advantage to getting it closer to warp resonance?
Is it intended that there eventually will be a DIYA store version once the Pioneer version has sold out?
If so what is the likely end version max gain likely to be? [I have an original Kondo Ai (E) cartridge
which I adore...It was rebuilt by Kondo shortly before his death and has been in a drawer for the
past 20 odd years! The impedance and output are exceptionally low]
If so what is the likely end version max gain likely to be? [I have an original Kondo Ai (E) cartridge
which I adore...It was rebuilt by Kondo shortly before his death and has been in a drawer for the
past 20 odd years! The impedance and output are exceptionally low]
At least for my tone arm, Grace 707MKII, the arm is floating metal, grounded only through the cartridge ground wire. The turntable plinth is insulating. So my ground post will be at shield/chassis ground, which will be isolated from the signal ground. Board grounds go to signal ground, not shield/ chassis.
I must add, this is only a going in proposition. If it works, great. If it doesn’t some tinkering will be required. It is a best practice, not the only practice.
I think the reason some cables are directional is because it can be hard to tell if all boxes maintain chassis isolation unless someone imposes that requirement. As I noted, I bought a very nice digi attenuator only to find that it tied chassis to signal internally. There are many situations where partial chassis isolation can be worse than none. But if you build all the bits you are master of your destiny.