As a quick check, You may simply want to put another 220ohms in parallel to r22 on the fly and double the feedback so to bring down the gain closer to 40db. I think the opamp should be able to handle it, stability wise. These op amp should be unity gain stable.
Have done due diligence in listening to the Sparkos discrete opamp for two days after the initial comparison made above and can report that 1) it is clearly inferior to the stock NJM2068D and, further, 2) it is not, in general, an acceptable opamp for the P3.
Because...
It has poor dynamic range, dull presence, and a lack of timbral accuracy (especially in the bass). Began this comparison (post #4653 above) with Spark's statement that his discrete opamps "deliver a much more realistic and detailed sound." They most assuredly do not.
So have decided to try the Burson V7 Vivid Pro and have ordered a pair. Should be here soon and will continue my reporting on opamp rolling against the 2068D.
Interesting to note that the NJM2068D costs $1.27 at Digikey and has proven better to my ears than 5 other opamps (so far).
Because...
It has poor dynamic range, dull presence, and a lack of timbral accuracy (especially in the bass). Began this comparison (post #4653 above) with Spark's statement that his discrete opamps "deliver a much more realistic and detailed sound." They most assuredly do not.
So have decided to try the Burson V7 Vivid Pro and have ordered a pair. Should be here soon and will continue my reporting on opamp rolling against the 2068D.
Interesting to note that the NJM2068D costs $1.27 at Digikey and has proven better to my ears than 5 other opamps (so far).
@barbosas You don't need to reduce the gain if the stock resistor values are in place. A 6.5mV moving magnet cartridge isn't going to make Pearl 3 blink in low-gain.
Make sure the jumper pins are soldered properly and verify that the little metal bit is in place in the female part of the jumper.
Also, can you post another photo or two that's better lit? it's difficult to be 100% sure when looking at the resistor bands. (Although things look pretty good, I've been staring at the photos a lot.)
@Craigl59 You've already figured it out... they are wonderful audio opamps. Quiet, good GBW, unity-stable, etc... devices that were truly made for audio by people who know what they are doing.
Make sure the jumper pins are soldered properly and verify that the little metal bit is in place in the female part of the jumper.
Also, can you post another photo or two that's better lit? it's difficult to be 100% sure when looking at the resistor bands. (Although things look pretty good, I've been staring at the photos a lot.)
@Craigl59 You've already figured it out... they are wonderful audio opamps. Quiet, good GBW, unity-stable, etc... devices that were truly made for audio by people who know what they are doing.
Guys, appreciate all your inputs and found the culprit.
Went to the basics, made sure all iron pre inputs were working fine with a dac input.
After that, I reconnected the Rega Phono MM pre amp, and surprise surprise, the issue remained there.
I had a damn broken RCA cable, that broke between my first test of the iron pre with the rega phono amp, and my second test with the Pearl 3.
first test sounds good, no hum or hiss paired with an M2x, next will try with a Dynaco ST70.
Another happy client:
Went to the basics, made sure all iron pre inputs were working fine with a dac input.
After that, I reconnected the Rega Phono MM pre amp, and surprise surprise, the issue remained there.
I had a damn broken RCA cable, that broke between my first test of the iron pre with the rega phono amp, and my second test with the Pearl 3.
first test sounds good, no hum or hiss paired with an M2x, next will try with a Dynaco ST70.
Another happy client:
If you don't break RCA cables or bend opamps pins or create magic smoke, you are no audio diyer. 
What about the Mark Johnson's blind tests that ranked the MC1458 and LF353 the highest? Have you tried these two op amps?
Don't know. 6L6 sent me two blind opamps -- the red and blue ones -- then refused to tell me their names. May have said something about neoplatonism as well but I don't remember...
(Oh, did I forget to add the LOL?)...
And as regards systems and testing.
It IS possible to identify characteristics that are universal and apply to all systems. FR and dynamic range are two that will affect all systems to a lesser or greater degree. I refute the idea that you cannot test because everyone's system is different. A bad component is a bad component and a bad FR will be heard with the same deficiency by all and on all systems.
When I was teaching musicology in Minnesota in the 80s there was a movement afoot to disallow tests because "you can't really test for understanding can you?"
Well I was taught in the German tradition and, yes, you can test for understanding just as musicians can test for listening. Their ability to listen well while performing is essential to professional play. As Rousseau said "the bad musician does not hear himself."
When you learn to listen for specific audio characteristics (dynamic range, timbral accuracy, etc.) they are characteristics that appear on all systems. Centering in on these universal characteristics makes review information helpful and applicable.
They sound like what they sound like whether they are painted red or blue or yellow or green.
They sound like what they sound like whether you know "their names" or not.
I noticed that wildly opinionated listeners suddenly became unwilling to express a preference, in a blind test. Fearful of contradicting the hive-mind? Hard to know. Might be just coincidence.
I don't know what kind of clowns you dealt in the past, but if someone took the time to send me some op amps I will certainly tell them what I prefer! AND return them to sender after I was done.
I would also like to know what opamp I liked so I could recommend it to my friends without getting a lecture in neoplatonism..
I remember that M2x board 'cheeseburger' or whatever it was called, M2x board with the AD797 sounded horrific vs the other one ips7(?) that was very good using the lme49720.
I would also like to know what opamp I liked so I could recommend it to my friends without getting a lecture in neoplatonism..
I remember that M2x board 'cheeseburger' or whatever it was called, M2x board with the AD797 sounded horrific vs the other one ips7(?) that was very good using the lme49720.
If you don't break RCA cables or bend opamps pins or create magic smoke, you are no audio diyer.
At least three times!
I got dual Burson V5, V6 Classic and Vivid. The Vivid do sound more "clear" in the DAC. When I had them on the original P3, I liked the Vivid better too. Although on that board all the Burson were a bit -background- noisy.
Maybe I should buy the V7s too. Another pair... yikes. I don't want to pull them off the DAC because they sound quite good in there.
Come to think about it.... I could also test the opamps in the DAC and the op amp tester... and then... i will go nuts.
I wonder if we should the P3 op amp rolling to the other thread.
I don't know what kind of clowns you dealt in the past, but if someone took the time to send me some op amps I will certainly tell them what I prefer! AND return them to sender after I was done.
I would also like to know what opamp I liked so I could recommend it to my friends without getting a lecture in neoplatonism..
I remember that M2x board 'cheeseburger' or whatever it was called, M2x board with the AD797 sounded horrific vs the other one ips7(?) that was very good using the lme49720.
What did you say? I can't hear you!
Maybe we need this opamp
https://www.tokopedia.com/san-audio/op-amp-dual-hi-end-clown-series?extParam=ivf=false&keyword=hi-end&src=search&refined=true
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