I got the Whammy exchanged with a 10k Goldpoint in a box (some calls it a passive pre....but this time it drives a pre) to get lower gain in the total loop from TT to power amp. It is still very very silent and of course with lower gain even more silent than before. If I crank it up to max. the hiss is still quite low.
The gain now is perfect. Normal listening level is Goldpoint set to 1 o'clock. Don't think I will ever pass 3 o'clock other than for some "test occasions".
Sound is very very good. Very detailed and natural sound. 3D imaging at least on par with my digital setup. I have to listen more to actual verify if 3D imaging is even better......maybe it is.
In picture the Goldpoint is placed at shelf below TT. Goldpoint is pushed back as I use as short IC's as possible. 2nd image shows from side the IC between P3 and IP. Think I have seen IP implementations where wires from built-in pot is almost as long as the IC's I use here so should not be much of a difference to have pot in its own box. The sound tells me that it works fine.
Now I can concentrate in the weekend to level the tonearm and swap out the anti-skating weigh with a slightly heavier one.
I also want to isolate mains cables from signal cables a little better. Behind such a rack there are really many cables.
The gain now is perfect. Normal listening level is Goldpoint set to 1 o'clock. Don't think I will ever pass 3 o'clock other than for some "test occasions".
Sound is very very good. Very detailed and natural sound. 3D imaging at least on par with my digital setup. I have to listen more to actual verify if 3D imaging is even better......maybe it is.
In picture the Goldpoint is placed at shelf below TT. Goldpoint is pushed back as I use as short IC's as possible. 2nd image shows from side the IC between P3 and IP. Think I have seen IP implementations where wires from built-in pot is almost as long as the IC's I use here so should not be much of a difference to have pot in its own box. The sound tells me that it works fine.
Now I can concentrate in the weekend to level the tonearm and swap out the anti-skating weigh with a slightly heavier one.
I also want to isolate mains cables from signal cables a little better. Behind such a rack there are really many cables.
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The Schiit seems punchier than the F6 for this specific speaker. I listen to a lot of rock/heavier music which seems better suited for the Ragnarok 2. I haven't had it that long (about a month), so I'm still evaluating. However, the F6 sounds fantastic, the Akitika is fine but I could take it or leave it. I'm moving that system upstairs to the bonus room. We are completing a small interior design project and I'm losing valuable floor space...Thank you @msikk just out of curiosity apart from the simplifying your amp/preamp combo from F6+Akitika preamp to Schitt Ragnaraok 2 was their any difference in sound for better and is Schitt better now with Forte III 😉
As my current setup includes most of the time Ropieexl streamer with Pi3 (Salas LPSU) -> Soekris R2R -> HPA1 clone preamp -> SissySIT R3 -> Forte III, I love the way R3 powers the Forte's and makes the music lively/dynamic and imaging being its forte.
I was running all tube stuff before (VTA ST-120, PH14, SP13) but I got tired of chasing bad tubes, grounding issues, etc. I'm happy with the setup for now!
The point of this exercise is to demonstrate that Wayne's design, if the Pearl 2 is any guide, sounds fab....but that it MAY BE unproductive to get your knickers twisted up over which power supply implementation to use.Here are some power supply
implementations and their effect upon noise. The Murata NDTD1215C was used in Cordell's "THD Multiplier" IIRC. With respect to noise, owing to the cap multiplier on the JFET stage, there isn't a whole lot of difference. Regrettably, the "Simple Switcher" has gone to its heavenly reward and is now unobtanium.
I can get some friends over to listen to the P3 fueled by Silent Switcher, Murata, a couple other little SMPS bricks (which are cheap) OR the CRC supply using an Amveco toroid with the 7815/7915, Sjostrom, Jung-Didden or Salas regs. I am agnostic and will report back.
I started with a simple CRC into the 79/79 regs. Yesterday I swapped that out with a Salas UltraBIB. I noticed a reduction in noise, but I can't say that the sonics were significantly better. At some point I'd like to bypass the monolithic regs and go direct from Salas, but I'm not in a terrible hurry to start butchering my boards. Anyways, I look forward to your findings.The point of this exercise is to demonstrate that Wayne's design, if the Pearl 2 is any guide, sounds fab....but that it MAY BE unproductive to get your knickers twisted up over which power supply implementation to use.
I can get some friends over to listen to the P3 fueled by Silent Switcher, Murata, a couple other little SMPS bricks (which are cheap) OR the CRC supply using an Amveco toroid with the 7815/7915, Sjostrom, Jung-Didden or Salas regs. I am agnostic and will report back.
By the way, the frequency response chart in the video presentation displays a minor artifact/glitch of the AP measurement system. Change the number of readings per second to 8...allows the analog analyzer to settle a bit better at the 200Hz mark.
The video is worth setting aside some time to watch.
The video is worth setting aside some time to watch.
Congrats nice cabinets are those from modushop.biz? Can you please provide the link?Finished! Testing power supply and preamp on my untidy workbench.
View attachment 1264981
I have listened to it a little bit, and first impressions are very good!
Thanks
Got this from Gianluca yesterday 😉
https://modushop.biz/site/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=971
https://modushop.biz/site/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=971
Thanks! Yes, they are from Mudoshop: https://modushop.biz/site/index.php?route=product/product&path=33_287_289&product_id=256Congrats nice cabinets are those from modushop.biz? Can you please provide the link?
They are 170 mm deep, which is a bit tight for the preamp boards if you are planning on using XLR connectors. But it makes for a nice compact unit.
I have now spent some time leveling the tonearm (VTA). It was set a bit high. Adjusted VTF again and also anti-skating by use of a test record. It can track 80um and almost 90um. So that is fine.
After a bit of listening I find sound very detailed and far from the very warm sound I got from the NAD riaa. I thought that.....ok.....that is the "sound of vinyl".
What I want to try is to dial in some pF. My goal is to get the sound just a little bit less "bright".
Could that be the way to do it?
In the moment all dips are set to off. So only the 47k resistor as load.
The cartridge spec says:
I only have load capacitance from the RCA cable and that is not very much. Maybe 40 pF or so.
What is your experience with how load capacitance changes the sound of the "high end" (it is a MM cartridge)?
After a bit of listening I find sound very detailed and far from the very warm sound I got from the NAD riaa. I thought that.....ok.....that is the "sound of vinyl".
What I want to try is to dial in some pF. My goal is to get the sound just a little bit less "bright".
Could that be the way to do it?
In the moment all dips are set to off. So only the 47k resistor as load.
The cartridge spec says:
I only have load capacitance from the RCA cable and that is not very much. Maybe 40 pF or so.
What is your experience with how load capacitance changes the sound of the "high end" (it is a MM cartridge)?
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