What a beautiful flower, i'd almost suspect there's an Italian greaseball somewhere in your family line.
(wish i could say the same about the herbs popping out of the chess board, probably too occupied admiring the elegant hot water tube movements in your tub, hey ?)
(wish i could say the same about the herbs popping out of the chess board, probably too occupied admiring the elegant hot water tube movements in your tub, hey ?)
Those fracking weeds again...they really got bad last year (breakup time, again - neither one of us were doing a damn thing around here out of spite and the weeds saw this as their golden opportunity to move in and take over.
My backyard late last year:
Here it is today. The bald patch is where she took out the things that she didn't want (furniture, etc that I either owned or certainly could have used) and BURNED it. Ah, the battles we wage in the name of love...
Many different bloods flowing in these veins but I'm not sure if there is any "Italian greaseball" - could be. Who knows what's tangled in the roots of the family tree.
*******************************************
Doing some finishing touches - made the top attach with no visible fastenings. Metal pins slip into the front plate and I added a small aluminum angle to the bottom of the top to attach to the back plate. Solid and elegant.
I weighed it using my bathroom scale with it in my arms (it occurs to me it's heavy, lugging it around). It's 52 pounds, which is more than I expected. A sum of the parts I guess.
My backyard late last year:

Here it is today. The bald patch is where she took out the things that she didn't want (furniture, etc that I either owned or certainly could have used) and BURNED it. Ah, the battles we wage in the name of love...

Many different bloods flowing in these veins but I'm not sure if there is any "Italian greaseball" - could be. Who knows what's tangled in the roots of the family tree.
*******************************************
Doing some finishing touches - made the top attach with no visible fastenings. Metal pins slip into the front plate and I added a small aluminum angle to the bottom of the top to attach to the back plate. Solid and elegant.
I weighed it using my bathroom scale with it in my arms (it occurs to me it's heavy, lugging it around). It's 52 pounds, which is more than I expected. A sum of the parts I guess.
Hey, John. I noticed, that there is another newer version of the PCB. Could you post some gerber files, so that we can make the board in a factory, you promised me last time, but I forgive you, as long as the newer version is better! 😀
Thanks Peranders,
I went from knowing nothing (at the beginning of the Patchwork project) to knowing enough now to put it all together without worrying that it'll burn the house down!
Still, I know nothing 🙂
Ooops! Kalmara I missed your post. I'll get the Gerbers together and post them here. Stay tuned
I went from knowing nothing (at the beginning of the Patchwork project) to knowing enough now to put it all together without worrying that it'll burn the house down!
Still, I know nothing 🙂
Ooops! Kalmara I missed your post. I'll get the Gerbers together and post them here. Stay tuned
What's the lead spacing of the signal input pads, power pads, outputs, etc.?
Fairly standard stuff: TO-264 outputs, 5mm pin spacing on the terminal block, the faston spade connectors are for .25" spades and the holes are 5mm also.
Electros are all 5mm. Trimpot is a 3296W and the output stage emitter resistors are 3.75watt Dale's - just bend the leads to fit.

Could somebody check this over?
Download test.xls from Sendspace.com - send big files the easy way
http://www.filedropper.com/test_38 (same file, different host)
Download test.xls from Sendspace.com - send big files the easy way
http://www.filedropper.com/test_38 (same file, different host)
Could somebody check this over?
The Panasonic 2SA1123 / 2SC2631 will make great substitutes for the 2SA970 / 2SC2240 and are available at Digikey. These have the correct pinout.
digi-key carries for the BD139:
SOT-32-3, TO-126-3 (?)
TO-126-3 (Straight Leads)
TO-225-3
What's the difference between TO-92 and TO-92-3?
SOT-32-3, TO-126-3 (?)
TO-126-3 (Straight Leads)
TO-225-3
What's the difference between TO-92 and TO-92-3?
Lead spacing for these caps?
CAPACITOR, 100nF C4, C16, CZ
CAPACITOR, 100pF C18
CAPACITOR, 1uF C9, C7, C8
CAPACITOR, 2.2uF C6
CAPACITOR, 220pF C10
And the 2SA1381, what hFE do I need?
CAPACITOR, 100nF C4, C16, CZ
CAPACITOR, 100pF C18
CAPACITOR, 1uF C9, C7, C8
CAPACITOR, 2.2uF C6
CAPACITOR, 220pF C10
And the 2SA1381, what hFE do I need?
Lead spacing for these caps?
CAPACITOR, 100nF C4, C16, CZ
CAPACITOR, 100pF C18
CAPACITOR, 1uF C9, C7, C8
CAPACITOR, 2.2uF C6
CAPACITOR, 220pF C10
And the 2SA1381, what hFE do I need?
C4, C16 are ceramic bypass - NPO/COG. Pin spacing on board is 5mm.
CZ can be ceramic or film. Board spacing is 5mm.
C8, C9 are film. 15mm lead spacing.
C7 is film like this 10mm lead spacing.
C6 is similar to C7. It has multiple pin spacing, from 5mm to 16mm.
C10 can be silver mica or NPO/COG ceramic (what I'm using). Pin spacing is 5mm and 7.5mm
Get the "F" class for 2SA1381.
I'd like to use X7R bypass caps because I already have them (and they're much, much cheaper). Do you think that downgrading will result in a tangible performance drop?
How about C18?
For C6, I'm assuming it's 5mm, 12.5mm, and 16mm?
Can I replace the 1N4148 with 1N4004 (higher specs)?
How about C18?
For C6, I'm assuming it's 5mm, 12.5mm, and 16mm?
Can I replace the 1N4148 with 1N4004 (higher specs)?
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C10 looks like it only has one pair of holes, and it seems to me that the pitch is something like 3.5mm?
Are there any caps whose tolerances are crucial, besides C10?
Are there any caps whose tolerances are crucial, besides C10?
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C5 doesn't look like it's in the BOM at all.
What the hell is up with the 30 minute edit limit? Grrrr
What the hell is up with the 30 minute edit limit? Grrrr
I'd like to use X7R bypass caps because I already have them (and they're much, much cheaper). Do you think that downgrading will result in a tangible performance drop?
How about C18?
For C6, I'm assuming it's 5mm, 12.5mm, and 16mm?
Can I replace the 1N4148 with 1N4004 (higher specs)?
X7R for bypass are fine - I certainly couldn't hear a performance drop (maybe because it doesn't exist 😉 )
C18 is not on the design. See latest board layout above.
1N4004 will work as well.
C10 looks like it only has one pair of holes, and it seems to me that the pitch is something like 3.5mm?
Are there any caps whose tolerances are crucial, besides C10?
Again, see latest board layout.
Nothing is critical. 10-20% for everything is ok (nice to have C5 5%). C10 is for input RF, tolerance is not critical.
If you are making a PCB then I advise that all the caps should have multi pin pitch options.
Not really needed, these are common sizes and really wouldn't be a problem sourcing them. Laying out a board is hard enough without allowing for every conceivable cap size.
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