That's definitely a Sharp pinout, BUT pins 9 and 16 must be connected together. Just a short piece of wire is all that's needed and solder the wire to pin 9 & 16 on the 26 pin connector and your are good to go. I can't say exactly what that part does, but I use it and it works 100%. I believe it tells that panel that it is hooked up to a PC and not a Mac. I could be wrong, but it's the closest guess I have.
Is the cable for Mac or PC? That pinout is for PC. Mac is wired up different, but if for PC, do the trick above. My info is direct from Sharp, so can't go wrong there.
Is the cable for Mac or PC? That pinout is for PC. Mac is wired up different, but if for PC, do the trick above. My info is direct from Sharp, so can't go wrong there.
skywayflies 2
Thanks, that last bit of info is what did it. It came up fine after using a regular vga cable and shorting 9 to 16. It's a shame that the color is not the 1.4M as it is described on the '143 panels' list. the slow response is not as distracting as the relief map effect of having only 512 colors. Now can you tell me if it's really bad to run something on less than the amount of juice it asks for? It's powered by a 12V 1.25A adapter I cobbled together out of some lying around. It's supposed to get 1.95A. The hardest was to find a tip that would fit, but the standard hp printer tip (round) worked.
Thanks, that last bit of info is what did it. It came up fine after using a regular vga cable and shorting 9 to 16. It's a shame that the color is not the 1.4M as it is described on the '143 panels' list. the slow response is not as distracting as the relief map effect of having only 512 colors. Now can you tell me if it's really bad to run something on less than the amount of juice it asks for? It's powered by a 12V 1.25A adapter I cobbled together out of some lying around. It's supposed to get 1.95A. The hardest was to find a tip that would fit, but the standard hp printer tip (round) worked.
It's always best to go with the same amount of current or more current than required. Going lower can cause the main fan to slow down in some systems and over heat the panel, or the picture quality won't quite be up to par since all the goodies on the inside aren't fully powered.
Equal or more, but not less. If you can, try a 12v 2amp or higher amperage, it might prove to work better AND the power supply won't suddenly die due to being overworked and even the possibility of fire if used for long periods. No joke, I have lit some up in my time in electronics geekery.
Equal or more, but not less. If you can, try a 12v 2amp or higher amperage, it might prove to work better AND the power supply won't suddenly die due to being overworked and even the possibility of fire if used for long periods. No joke, I have lit some up in my time in electronics geekery.
What about in parts? Since it obviously cannot be used in a projector, I was thinking of the really neat fan that is inside it to cool the LCD in the projector I will (eventually) build. Most of the time these motors have their requirements marked on them. After that the requirements of the display itself should be significantly lower. As it was explained to me the highest consumer of electric power is a motor followed by an element that heats something. Would I be able to use the display part of this thing using a lower amp power supply. It sure wouldn't need the cooling since it would not be on top of a heat producing ohp.
9 & 16 must be connected and it help another DIYer get his cable working. I use this way for all sharp cables and not a complaint with it. He couldn't get his cable working until he soldered a wire from pin 9 to 16 on the 26 pin connector.
If you don't plan to use the fan, then you don't need a power supply at 2 amps. You are right, the fan takes pretty much most of the juice.
If you don't plan to use the fan, then you don't need a power supply at 2 amps. You are right, the fan takes pretty much most of the juice.
Looking over that pinout more, it does say pin 9 & 16, but not as plain as the info I received way back when. You got to admit, if I missed it the first time, anyone could. That's my cop out and I am sticking to it, LOL.
Where did you get the idea pins 9 & 5? Did I goof up in a post?
Me to busy? Nope, dedicated to ebay and DIYaudio
Where did you get the idea pins 9 & 5? Did I goof up in a post?
Me to busy? Nope, dedicated to ebay and DIYaudio
hey uvodee, could you make me a cable please? I have a sharp panel. Just E-mail me at k2jibba@gmail.com if you can.
thanks,
Jeff
thanks,
Jeff
Sharp QA-1200
I'm looking for "the cable" as well, for a sharp QA-1200.
But really, all I would need to make my own is a vga extension cable right? I know how to solder, but if they are still available for $15, I would really rather just buy it from a pro.
Thanks guys!
mike
sheilaridez@hotmail.com
I'm looking for "the cable" as well, for a sharp QA-1200.
But really, all I would need to make my own is a vga extension cable right? I know how to solder, but if they are still available for $15, I would really rather just buy it from a pro.
Thanks guys!
mike
sheilaridez@hotmail.com
VGA to MAC
found the nview spectra runs on Belkin Mac-VGA Adapter set to 640x480 sync to green its model#F3H1381
with a gender changer. works for me. (spectra date 1990)
found the nview spectra runs on Belkin Mac-VGA Adapter set to 640x480 sync to green its model#F3H1381with a gender changer. works for me. (spectra date 1990)
so winners58 is that all you would need for the nview specttra? i have one as well without cables and suck at soldering so I was looking for an adapter. if not uvodee do you still make cables for the nview spectra?
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