Yes, I am also skeptical of the value of replacing that fuse.
If you want to improve the SMPS, there are lots of other ways to do that, many of which have been discussed in this thread. Increase/Better capacitance, replacing diodes, shielding, common mode choke…
Another option is to replace the SMPS with a linear power supply.
If you want to improve the SMPS, there are lots of other ways to do that, many of which have been discussed in this thread. Increase/Better capacitance, replacing diodes, shielding, common mode choke…
Another option is to replace the SMPS with a linear power supply.
Thanks for the info Coris and eganz1. makes perfect sence re smps.
About the murata caps... I thought as you that is why I tried parallel the original Tks and then the oscon. I Dont understand it... but it definetly sounds better with just the 10uf Miurata in this position.
I have read in other area that in similar situations when using these modern Muratas a lower value adequate and I have also read they should not be paralleled. I must admit I have also read the exact opposite.
Well I tried both and this is my result. I must admit I cannot back rhis up with measurement. Just used my ears
About the murata caps... I thought as you that is why I tried parallel the original Tks and then the oscon. I Dont understand it... but it definetly sounds better with just the 10uf Miurata in this position.
I have read in other area that in similar situations when using these modern Muratas a lower value adequate and I have also read they should not be paralleled. I must admit I have also read the exact opposite.
Well I tried both and this is my result. I must admit I cannot back rhis up with measurement. Just used my ears
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Yes, it have to be a temporized fuse right there, as the power up impulse current is quite important in that place... If one will connect/disconnect frequent the player from/into wall, then this fuse can blow away...
Hello,
this post is sleeping... 😴
Coris, news about the Clock/Divider ?
I'm searching actually a solution to replace regulator 5V, 3.3V with a low noise solution. Also a bridge rectifier with schottky...
Is somebody have a "good deal" for a AC filter ?
What do you think about Bybee, Stein Pad, ...
Coris, I know already your opinion about this... 😉
this post is sleeping... 😴
Coris, news about the Clock/Divider ?
I'm searching actually a solution to replace regulator 5V, 3.3V with a low noise solution. Also a bridge rectifier with schottky...
Is somebody have a "good deal" for a AC filter ?
What do you think about Bybee, Stein Pad, ...
Coris, I know already your opinion about this... 😉
Hi Asterix007
Yes, the thread it become like sleeping sometimes.... If you will come with some controversial themes/subjects for discussions, then it can be enough active...😀
I just got the Clock divider boards. Next week is planed to be dedicated to this task (assemble it, testing).
To replace the rectifier diodes with Schottky is a good idea, and is quite simple to do it. I will suggest you keep the legs of the old ones, to solder on it the new diodes... Doing so, one will not thermal stress unnecessary the board traces/vias, by solder/unsolder these diodes. Just cut out the old one, and use their legs.
When about 5v power rail, this it come from SMPS, it deliver quite important amount of Amperes, and is not possible to be regulated it further to get the same 5v output. I mean it may be possible, but the amount of work is quite important, risky, and unnecessary...
The 3,3v is obtained from local regulators (powered by 5v rail) for the targeted devices. If one intend to improve these small 3,3v regulators for some of the sensitive components it feed with power, then may one want to improve only these regulators. For example the regulators around DAC chip. This is not very easy task! And quite risky...
A more reasonable improvement it can be made by replacing the +/- regulators for analogue stage of the player. These regulators (+/-15v, +/-12v) are as usual unequal, doe to a cheap production process for the player. Also the analogue power it may have an improved filtering. I may suggest to provide adjustments to all the analogue power rails. to precisely set it up their output tensions.
Yes, the thread it become like sleeping sometimes.... If you will come with some controversial themes/subjects for discussions, then it can be enough active...😀
I just got the Clock divider boards. Next week is planed to be dedicated to this task (assemble it, testing).
To replace the rectifier diodes with Schottky is a good idea, and is quite simple to do it. I will suggest you keep the legs of the old ones, to solder on it the new diodes... Doing so, one will not thermal stress unnecessary the board traces/vias, by solder/unsolder these diodes. Just cut out the old one, and use their legs.
When about 5v power rail, this it come from SMPS, it deliver quite important amount of Amperes, and is not possible to be regulated it further to get the same 5v output. I mean it may be possible, but the amount of work is quite important, risky, and unnecessary...
The 3,3v is obtained from local regulators (powered by 5v rail) for the targeted devices. If one intend to improve these small 3,3v regulators for some of the sensitive components it feed with power, then may one want to improve only these regulators. For example the regulators around DAC chip. This is not very easy task! And quite risky...
A more reasonable improvement it can be made by replacing the +/- regulators for analogue stage of the player. These regulators (+/-15v, +/-12v) are as usual unequal, doe to a cheap production process for the player. Also the analogue power it may have an improved filtering. I may suggest to provide adjustments to all the analogue power rails. to precisely set it up their output tensions.
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Ok Coris,
Based on your comments, I looked at these caps again.
With just the Muratas, the sound it detailed open and fast. However, it was missing some body/fullness/harmonics to the notes... which I think is what your comment was referring to..
With just the 270uf Oscon SPs in place, the fullness returns along with the speed and detail. This is the best option I have found as it has the best of both. So it is best not to parallel the OSCONs with the Muratas. It also sounds better than the stock Tks.
Now I am looking forward to the clock mod and maybe a new post dac stage in the future.
Based on your comments, I looked at these caps again.
With just the Muratas, the sound it detailed open and fast. However, it was missing some body/fullness/harmonics to the notes... which I think is what your comment was referring to..
With just the 270uf Oscon SPs in place, the fullness returns along with the speed and detail. This is the best option I have found as it has the best of both. So it is best not to parallel the OSCONs with the Muratas. It also sounds better than the stock Tks.
Now I am looking forward to the clock mod and maybe a new post dac stage in the future.
You may try 2700µ (6v) or even more on DAC AVCC... Then I would like to read from you about how you will appreciate that "best"...
Actually I have all the needed PCBs for my mod/kit (post DAC, clock, etc). There are to be mounted some chips with thermal pad on few of these boards. Is quite a pain to solder that pad with classical soldering tools, and the quality results are average...
I work full speed these days to finish, or almost finish my infra-red soldering station, to have a more professional approach with these boards... But, as I said, I will want to assembly and test the clock divider next week...
Can you imagine? I had no even time to open my new Oppo HA-1 DAC/amplifier... Are enough mods which it still waiting there too, and I`m very excited to start this work...
Actually I have all the needed PCBs for my mod/kit (post DAC, clock, etc). There are to be mounted some chips with thermal pad on few of these boards. Is quite a pain to solder that pad with classical soldering tools, and the quality results are average...
I work full speed these days to finish, or almost finish my infra-red soldering station, to have a more professional approach with these boards... But, as I said, I will want to assembly and test the clock divider next week...
Can you imagine? I had no even time to open my new Oppo HA-1 DAC/amplifier... Are enough mods which it still waiting there too, and I`m very excited to start this work...
Coris...
What type of caps do you recommend at this point? I don't think oscon come in that value?
I have upgraded/increased the caps prior to this point on the board FYI
The mods sound very interesting and I can imagine you have your hands very full.
I look forward to hearing your results.
What type of caps do you recommend at this point? I don't think oscon come in that value?
I have upgraded/increased the caps prior to this point on the board FYI
The mods sound very interesting and I can imagine you have your hands very full.
I look forward to hearing your results.
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First you may find the smallest dimensions for the large capacity caps. The lowest ESR/ESL cap is recommended. Also placed as close as possible to the targeted chip power pins, with the shortest connections (AVCC is distributed symmetrical on both sides of the ES9018 chip, and it have to be identical decoupled for each side). And at least one may care for a good mechanical stability for the construction.
Tantalum SMD caps are best suitable for this task, but at high capacities are quite expensive. I have very good results with (not the cheapest ones) electrolytic types...
This subject was also discussed here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/196474-ess9018-try-new-try-more-20.html
Tantalum SMD caps are best suitable for this task, but at high capacities are quite expensive. I have very good results with (not the cheapest ones) electrolytic types...
This subject was also discussed here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/196474-ess9018-try-new-try-more-20.html
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Hi Coris... more investigation then:
The Tantalums are expensive - Here are some I was looking at:
I have a question about the voltage rating... is 6.3v not too low in this position?
The Tantalums are expensive - Here are some I was looking at:
- Vishay Tantalum - Solid SMD 2200uF 6.3volts (possibly stacked to double the value)
Alternates are: - Nichicon HZ Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 6.3volts 2700uf
- Nichicon CG Aluminum Organic Polymer Capacitors 6.3V 2700uF
I have a question about the voltage rating... is 6.3v not too low in this position?
We may clarify if is about AVCC of the ES9018 chip to be decoupled or some other power rails. As I understood, you was talking about the AVCC of the DAC...
The DAC chip is powered with 3,3v (standard), bout it can be powered here with a little bit more (3,6v - 3,8v). AVCC it may be 4v safe for this chip. In this case the decoupling caps rated 6,3v are very safe. One can go even lower to 4v rated caps. But to have a good safe guard, 6,3v is just right for a cap in this position.
You can of course use higher tensions caps, but their dimensions become then too big, to long the legs/connection wires, and all this it may not be so reasonable...
The DAC chip is powered with 3,3v (standard), bout it can be powered here with a little bit more (3,6v - 3,8v). AVCC it may be 4v safe for this chip. In this case the decoupling caps rated 6,3v are very safe. One can go even lower to 4v rated caps. But to have a good safe guard, 6,3v is just right for a cap in this position.
You can of course use higher tensions caps, but their dimensions become then too big, to long the legs/connection wires, and all this it may not be so reasonable...
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Thanks Coris,
I undestand the 6.3v cap voltage is above the 3.3v line voltage. It is just so much lower than the 25v originals. The concern was if there was enough of a safety margin.
I will give the 2700uf nichicon hz a try and see how it sounds.
I presume the voltage regs and dac in the Oppo 105d can handle this increased value long term.
I undestand the 6.3v cap voltage is above the 3.3v line voltage. It is just so much lower than the 25v originals. The concern was if there was enough of a safety margin.
I will give the 2700uf nichicon hz a try and see how it sounds.
I presume the voltage regs and dac in the Oppo 105d can handle this increased value long term.
What do you mean about "25v original"?
ES9018 DAC is powered on AVCC by a 3,3v regulator, which is set it up to 3,4v in Oppo design (if I remember well...). Where from this 3,3v regulator is powered from is another story (not very important for this approach).
If you will decouple the AVCC at the chip pins, with a 6,3v rated cap, then is very safe to do it.
The 3,3v regulator it have build in a current limit protection circuit, which it will protect it from the large currents developed on power on sequence, by the large capacity cap on its output.
I`m using 4 x 2700µ distributed on both sides of the chip, and it works well for me since quite long time ago now... Actually at 3,8v AVCC.
ES9018 DAC is powered on AVCC by a 3,3v regulator, which is set it up to 3,4v in Oppo design (if I remember well...). Where from this 3,3v regulator is powered from is another story (not very important for this approach).
If you will decouple the AVCC at the chip pins, with a 6,3v rated cap, then is very safe to do it.
The 3,3v regulator it have build in a current limit protection circuit, which it will protect it from the large currents developed on power on sequence, by the large capacity cap on its output.
I`m using 4 x 2700µ distributed on both sides of the chip, and it works well for me since quite long time ago now... Actually at 3,8v AVCC.
25v was referring to the voltage of the original cap oppo used in that location...
Thanks... for the clarification.
Thanks... for the clarification.
I see... They use the highest safe tension for a whole stage in the device, or because production reasons. Or for unknown (own) reasons...
However, the reasonable reasons are as decried in the posts above...😉🙂
However, the reasonable reasons are as decried in the posts above...😉🙂
The Regulators you refer to above that generate the 3.3v supply are the 317/337?
So you use 2700uf post dac...
Do you use the same low esr cap or do you switch to a more "audio grade" electrolytic cap.
My basic understanding is that these types of low esr caps may not "sound" as good in the analogue stages. This may not be an issue as they are not in the audio signal path.
So you use 2700uf post dac...
Do you use the same low esr cap or do you switch to a more "audio grade" electrolytic cap.
My basic understanding is that these types of low esr caps may not "sound" as good in the analogue stages. This may not be an issue as they are not in the audio signal path.
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Modifying AVCC regulator is not an easy operation and is enough risky. I do not recommend/suggest getting into this for those do not know very well the device.
At least going into revealing very many details of this mod it may not be my intention, and it is quite difficult to guide a modification through a forum discussion.
I publish a picture here indicating the area of the AVCC regulator (for 105 model). For the rest, sorry...
Using low ESR caps for decoupling purposes is a must. The decoupling caps are in a way in audio signal path. Indirectly. The caps used for decoupling may not be very appropriate for directly use in audio signal path (filtering, signal separation), or it may "sounds" different. So one may use the appropriate components for the right place in a circuit. Also experimenting is a good way to get results...
Best is in my opinion, to not use caps at all directly in audio signal path, but decoupling accordingly some of the circuits involved in audio signal process, it have quite important impact for the signal quality.
At least going into revealing very many details of this mod it may not be my intention, and it is quite difficult to guide a modification through a forum discussion.
I publish a picture here indicating the area of the AVCC regulator (for 105 model). For the rest, sorry...
Using low ESR caps for decoupling purposes is a must. The decoupling caps are in a way in audio signal path. Indirectly. The caps used for decoupling may not be very appropriate for directly use in audio signal path (filtering, signal separation), or it may "sounds" different. So one may use the appropriate components for the right place in a circuit. Also experimenting is a good way to get results...
Best is in my opinion, to not use caps at all directly in audio signal path, but decoupling accordingly some of the circuits involved in audio signal process, it have quite important impact for the signal quality.
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