Nothing to be sorry man!! Please!! All the luck with your accounting class!!
Also... Yes. I've followed de ASR Directiva thread, but as @HammerSandwich said, it won't meet my budget and it's an active design. Heissmann acoustics is another alternative (with DXT), but in the end... I think SB17+SB26+Augerpro, price/performance wise IT's the way to go... I calculate it should be around USD$300 per speaker (not accounting for the enclosure) which is spot on. If there is a cheaper woofer alternative with SB26+Augerpro I would also jump on it!
Also... Yes. I've followed de ASR Directiva thread, but as @HammerSandwich said, it won't meet my budget and it's an active design. Heissmann acoustics is another alternative (with DXT), but in the end... I think SB17+SB26+Augerpro, price/performance wise IT's the way to go... I calculate it should be around USD$300 per speaker (not accounting for the enclosure) which is spot on. If there is a cheaper woofer alternative with SB26+Augerpro I would also jump on it!
Thanks! And yes, all 3d printed. I have plans to print the cabinet as well, but making it from MDF would certainly be faster and cheaper. We'll see.
For me the price difference isn’t too much. The total cost for the DIY is around £600 per speaker compared to £490 per Genelec. Here is how the prototype waveguide looks and the woofer, I plan on building a test box soon. If I am happy with the performance I’ll either use a better printed waveguide, sand and try to make use of the current waveguide or get the front baffle CNC from MDF with the waveguide integrated.
Strangely enough, my room is almost the same size. 5x2.5x2.3m! The Genelecs sound awesome but struggle even with a 4th 120hz HP for high level playback!
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Passive XOs have been posted, though you'd obviously have to rework them for different drivers.
There is a nice thread here with crossover examples and measurements, cost would be quite low
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/revel-m105-copy-diy-build.29465/
It does look like they printed it with the mouth down on the bed which is why the inner contour is so lumpy. There is going to be a lot of work to sand and fill that out.
If you want to continue with what you have start with coarser grit like 80 or 120 grit to remove the material more quickly to get to the point you want add some filler, then fill sand, rinse repeat until the surface is getting smoother progressively working through the grits. Stop when you have had enough or the surface is smooth enough for you.
If you have or got some scrapers the process would go quicker
If you want to continue with what you have start with coarser grit like 80 or 120 grit to remove the material more quickly to get to the point you want add some filler, then fill sand, rinse repeat until the surface is getting smoother progressively working through the grits. Stop when you have had enough or the surface is smooth enough for you.
If you have or got some scrapers the process would go quicker
Prototype box completed and some very rough REW EQ and time alignment. Measurements performed inside. Unfortunately this meant a 2.8ms gate on the measurments due to reflections, I plan on taking this outside and using VituixCad when the weather permits. Looking promising so far though. Did some mono-listening with a Genelec 8030c side by side, both high passed at 120hz. They sound more similar than different, although so far I would say I can here some resonance from the DIY box in the 400hz ish region. Will do proper distortion measurements when outside. (Far = farfield near=near field for the picture labels).
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Don't write off those Peerless woofers because they are cheap.
There are quite some extremely well known and respected brands out there that basically use exactly those woofers, or a derivative from it. (even shown in this topic in a nice grey finished box)
Maybe an idea to use a battery backup system or a UPS for those 3d printers
I do sanding and the use spray filler, 2-3x. This fills pretty good and you are free with the next layers of colour.
With some fine tuning of my print configuration I get way nicer surfaces now. Only needs a few minutes sanding (but starting rough, 60-80. Not to much pressure. 120 as last step is enough for the spray filler)
You probably already know this, so apologies for telling you how to suck eggs - Those wiggles between 6-20k are possibly just your mic/boom setup so no need to try and correct those.