Another aspect I consider is acoustic depth. It is a lot easier to design the crossover when the acoustic depths match. The depths I've set for each size waveguide align well with the same nominally-sized woofer.
Not really concerned about that as these will be active. I've never bothered with passive, I'm driven crazy by the passive filter process in vcad and say "What am I doing, I have DSP"
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No worries, you understood me perfectly, and the order of your quotes also demonstrated why I was frustrated 🙂
Any good reason to remove the pins, and print them facing upright? I have seen this can cause lines, but seems nicer than having to add large supports.
If anyone is into wood turning I have (finally) developed a decent way to 3D print an adapter plate that allows for lathe mounting, driver fixing, horn fixing and accurate exit angles.
By removing the pins you could get a nicer mounting surface by printing directly on the bed but you lose the ability to easily centre the driver for mounting. You could make separate pins or use another mounting method. The ridges that appear towards the mouth are from the same size layer lines being stacked progressively less on top of each other. This can be fixed by printing with a variable layer height with a slicer that has that function.
Every orientation has benefits and pitfalls so it becomes a matter of choosing which compromise you want to accept.
Hi @augerpro , I have went through this entire thread (it took quite a while) and found it really insightful. Is there any news on the SB16PFC & SB21SDC speakers you're currently working on? I'm new to DIY and figured a good place to start would be this budget build using your waveguides, and was hoping that I could follow along as you progress with the project!
In my region I'm able to order custom CNC MDF panels and 3D print (SLA resin) from vendors in China through TaoBao. I'm still new to XO design, CTC distance, cabinets and ports so I'm unsure of how I should start, especially since these should be carefully optimised for the drivers used.
Also are any of the current waveguides compatible with SB19ST-C000-4? I understand your work with SB19 was discontinued but was wondering if the waveguides can also be used here since SB19 is much more affordable.
Thanks for all the work put into these waveguides, very inspiring!
In my region I'm able to order custom CNC MDF panels and 3D print (SLA resin) from vendors in China through TaoBao. I'm still new to XO design, CTC distance, cabinets and ports so I'm unsure of how I should start, especially since these should be carefully optimised for the drivers used.
Also are any of the current waveguides compatible with SB19ST-C000-4? I understand your work with SB19 was discontinued but was wondering if the waveguides can also be used here since SB19 is much more affordable.
I was contemplating between DIY with augerpro WG and the Behringer 2030A because of its good directivity and how affordable it in Singapore ($162.58 USD). How would Behringers compare to a DIY build using augerpro SB21SDC and SB16PFC?
Thanks for all the work put into these waveguides, very inspiring!
@microplastic26 - the quote I included in italics was what someone else on ASR posted.
I am a believer that DIY will out perform commercial speakers for the cost in most cases because we don't need to add a 200-400% markup to stay in business. But other people disagree. If you enjoy the DIY aspect of building something yourself and have the tools on hand, then it is even more likely that a DIY design will be a better choice for you.
I am a believer that DIY will out perform commercial speakers for the cost in most cases because we don't need to add a 200-400% markup to stay in business. But other people disagree. If you enjoy the DIY aspect of building something yourself and have the tools on hand, then it is even more likely that a DIY design will be a better choice for you.
And we usually don't pay ourselves a huge hourly rate.
Not to mention the fun and joy it gives.
How about a hybrid approach? I'm working on a horn/driver combo to replace the K400/K55V in the Klipschorn. This is the PRV WGP26-50 horn. I 3D printed a mouth extension to match the K400 opening and also flares out the horn. The massive driver is the Celestion CDX14-3030. It has a 1.4" exit so I also printed a 1.4" to 2" adapter.
@microplastic26 I had intended to finish the boxes and start measuring after I installed the supercharger on my car. But as these things tend to do, the power forced me to modify the transmission because 1-2 shift would slip under full throttle. I finished that last weekend so I can get back to prototyping speakers. But I move slow...
Presumably when you are not in your supercharged car!
It ran out of filament 95% through the print, and when I changed it failed to pull it through. Will try again soon.
Dissappointing but it happens. If it makes you feel any better here is a small selection of my own failed prints for one reason or another....
Got mine from a friend, look pretty rough and need lots of surface prep work and painted. Some of the screw mounting holes don't look like they have much filament keeping them there. Not sure how they'd handle screw pressure. I think my friend said it was 20% gyroid infill. I always request 100% but he mentioned his research suggesting much lower infill.
Not really liking the aesthetics of the woofer smaller than the waveguide so I may move up to using an 8" woofer. Might even try to make it cardoid with some slots. We'll see. Still a lot of worth to do rearranging the garage workshop before I can start cutting wood.
It needs work taking the STL file and tweeking it, but you can adapt it to remove the extra flat surface and add screw holes on the curved part.
I have done this on the 8 inch for SB29TXN to match the size of the 8 inch woofer.
Maybe @augerpro can provide STEP file with only the waveguide profile . It would be much easier than what I did since I was not always ending with completely flat surface at the edge. (I'm also used to 3d volumique but not on surface so it might come from me !)
It will be fine since there is "wall" where the screw is. I have also done mine with 15 or 20 gyroid. 100% would takemuch more time to print. It increase cost but also risk of failure ... Maybe I would do it for a final version when I know that every thing is fine.. Not for a proto. With Gyroid, you can also make some holes behind on top and fill with epoxy using a syringe ...
My builds with 8 and 6.5" augerpro waveguides.
