I rotated mine for easier access. Wish I'd known the Scanspeaks came in silver coned livery (as in Matthias's image)... Such a nice detail!
Yay! Thanks Don. Just got a shipping notice for the components for Matthias's Xover tweaks...
pfarrell, I am looking forward to read your opinion about the tweaks! Can you add the new parts to your xover such that you can go back and forth between the original / tweaked version and compare the result (using some crocodile jumpers or similar)?
Matthias,
I think I should add an additional brace to my tower. 2 reasons,
1. longer unsupported wall length below woofer, tower is 230mm longer.
2. The recommended port placement at mid height lands right on a brace.
I could solve both problems with added brace. Looking for your thoughts/approval.
Thanks,
Don
I think I should add an additional brace to my tower. 2 reasons,
1. longer unsupported wall length below woofer, tower is 230mm longer.
2. The recommended port placement at mid height lands right on a brace.
I could solve both problems with added brace. Looking for your thoughts/approval.
Thanks,
Don
Sure, add braces as you feel comfortable, there is no rocket science or black magic involved. It's generally considered a good idea to position the braces at irregular intervals in order to make life hard for resonances.
Don—you may find that all you need is some blocking in the corners... Post an interior pic...
Here are a couple pics. All 3 reinforcements are basically the same. Probably overkill but it's sturdy. Top two reinforcements are not actually finished (nor installed).
The cabinet seems really strong but the baltic birch ply definitely has a ring to it as opposed to a thud. It is probably too late to put an inner layer in as this was built off the interior dimensions. Open to suggestions.
Don
The cabinet seems really strong but the baltic birch ply definitely has a ring to it as opposed to a thud. It is probably too late to put an inner layer in as this was built off the interior dimensions. Open to suggestions.
Don
Attachments
Bracing looks good to me.
There is nothing wrong with adding some damping layers on the inside. Hawaphon works great. You could also use some bathroom tiles or metal sheets (as I did with my OSMCs).
There is nothing wrong with adding some damping layers on the inside. Hawaphon works great. You could also use some bathroom tiles or metal sheets (as I did with my OSMCs).
Thinking ahead
While I finish my speaker box construction, I thought I should order some wire.
Basically 2 applications - Crossover wiring and the cable from the Neutrik chassis connector to the speakers.
My two main questions are what size, AWG or mm, do I need for the speaker cable connection.
M, I think you double ran the woofer connection. Why was that?
And, roughly how much wire do you need for the xovers. Never done this before.
For my build I am thinking of going from the xover section to the speaker section through the floor. It will only require one connector per box which should be better. Comments?
Thanks,
Don
While I finish my speaker box construction, I thought I should order some wire.
Basically 2 applications - Crossover wiring and the cable from the Neutrik chassis connector to the speakers.
My two main questions are what size, AWG or mm, do I need for the speaker cable connection.
M, I think you double ran the woofer connection. Why was that?
And, roughly how much wire do you need for the xovers. Never done this before.
For my build I am thinking of going from the xover section to the speaker section through the floor. It will only require one connector per box which should be better. Comments?
Thanks,
Don
Don
See here for what I did with my Speakons.
Cable size for the xover is not critical, as long as it's big enough ;-) I don't remember the exact specs of what I used, but it's probably AWG 16 or so. I wouldn't want to go smaller than AWG 18, but I am pretty sure I wouldn't be able to hear a difference even if much thinner wires were used.
See here for what I did with my Speakons.
Cable size for the xover is not critical, as long as it's big enough ;-) I don't remember the exact specs of what I used, but it's probably AWG 16 or so. I wouldn't want to go smaller than AWG 18, but I am pretty sure I wouldn't be able to hear a difference even if much thinner wires were used.
Bracing looks good to me.
There is nothing wrong with adding some damping layers on the inside. Hawaphon works great. You could also use some bathroom tiles or metal sheets (as I did with my OSMCs).
M, what thickness Al did u use?
Thanks,
Don
Don, so great! Have you started on the Xovers yet? I didn't do the alu sheeting...FWIW. I have zero complaints. Ideally there would have been a way to hear with and without... and I opted for less cost... I also found some 6 conductor "tray cable", the link is on the page that Matthias linked to above, that I used to connect Xover boxes to speakers—which I guess you don't need since your Xovers are internal. Internally I used some silver coated copper cable I found a deal on, 14ga. those guys were having a sale. I did put in extra posts both on the cabinets and Xover boxes for later play with biamping or say NP Analog Crossover Network... Not that I currently feel ANY reason to do any of that...
If I were you I would make some sort of sled that you can mount the Xover panels to that you can slide in (and out) and secure in your lower "bay" with a hole cut in the upper birch panel I see in your pics for driver wires to pass through—or maybe it's just a notch at the back of that panel. Ideally you'd put some foam strips or come up with some plan to friction fit the sled so it can't vibrate etc...
If I were you I would make some sort of sled that you can mount the Xover panels to that you can slide in (and out) and secure in your lower "bay" with a hole cut in the upper birch panel I see in your pics for driver wires to pass through—or maybe it's just a notch at the back of that panel. Ideally you'd put some foam strips or come up with some plan to friction fit the sled so it can't vibrate etc...
I think it was 2mm or 2.5mm. I would have to open the box to check.
Thanks, M. Close enough. When you did the knock test, before and after, was the difference notable? I'm thinking the right "adhesive" could make a big difference. I think Bon did some work on that. I'll look back.
Don
Pfarrell,
Re paragraph 2, You are so right. I'll figure something out.
Thanks for the cable info. Looks perfect.
No on the xovers. I have the parts. Right now My mind is sort of occupied with how to get a great looking exterior. You set way to high of a standard.😀
My process and materials will be similar to yours but most likely not 10 coats.
Sorting out the colors now. My house is a 70's style California with a fair amount of clear red wood on the inside in living room and den area. It has definitely thrown me for a loop on most combatable. Especially since the designer space in my brain kind of got shorted in the gene set. TMI, sorry.
I will keep posting.
Don
Re paragraph 2, You are so right. I'll figure something out.
Thanks for the cable info. Looks perfect.
No on the xovers. I have the parts. Right now My mind is sort of occupied with how to get a great looking exterior. You set way to high of a standard.😀
My process and materials will be similar to yours but most likely not 10 coats.
Sorting out the colors now. My house is a 70's style California with a fair amount of clear red wood on the inside in living room and den area. It has definitely thrown me for a loop on most combatable. Especially since the designer space in my brain kind of got shorted in the gene set. TMI, sorry.
I will keep posting.
Don
- Home
- Loudspeakers
- Multi-Way
- Open Source Monkey Box