The knock test showed a bit of an improvement with the metal sheets, but the bracing was by far more effective/important.
^Yes. See here for more details on what the knock test really means: Cabinet bracing: measurements?
Alright Matthias!! What in the world?
This is NOT so subtle a tweak! Not in my system anyway... It's instantly "more" in the upper mids....I love it. MORE = more details, something new that wasn't there before? I'll know more when I go back to previous at some point..."Balance" could be the word? as opposed to "more"?
Is that what tracks with your intent? Is this backed by charts? Just curious.
...So, THANKS for continuing to play. Haha.
This is NOT so subtle a tweak! Not in my system anyway... It's instantly "more" in the upper mids....I love it. MORE = more details, something new that wasn't there before? I'll know more when I go back to previous at some point..."Balance" could be the word? as opposed to "more"?
Is that what tracks with your intent? Is this backed by charts? Just curious.
...So, THANKS for continuing to play. Haha.
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mbrennwa - I love this build and have been watching since I signed up. Very nice speakers.
I'm sure its been asked before, but was there ever any interest in a monkey coffin with more affordable drivers (and simpler crossovers), say from Dayton or SB? The obvious caveat being lower sensitivity so more suited to those with 50+ wpc amps.
I've only ever seen one other 3 way monkey box design posted and I think it was PETT and used really entry level Goldwood drivers and was voiced for an in wall install so not particularly useful design to everyone.
One could still take advantage of the waveguides from augerpro say using a sb26*** w/ 5" waveguide, a peerless NE***/dayton RS/sb15*** mid and any suitable 12" woofer. Like this build, could be ported or sealed.
I'm sure its been asked before, but was there ever any interest in a monkey coffin with more affordable drivers (and simpler crossovers), say from Dayton or SB? The obvious caveat being lower sensitivity so more suited to those with 50+ wpc amps.
I've only ever seen one other 3 way monkey box design posted and I think it was PETT and used really entry level Goldwood drivers and was voiced for an in wall install so not particularly useful design to everyone.
One could still take advantage of the waveguides from augerpro say using a sb26*** w/ 5" waveguide, a peerless NE***/dayton RS/sb15*** mid and any suitable 12" woofer. Like this build, could be ported or sealed.
The OSMC design was done based on the earlier polls on what kind of speakers people wanted, see the first post of this thread. We therefore did not think hard about using cheaper drivers.
If you are looking for a monkey coffin with cheaper drivers (or any DIY loudspeaker, really), do not prescribe drivers of certain manufacturers or model series out of the blue and then try to make things work with the prescribed drivers. One should carefully set the build targets in order to develop a clear concept of how the speaker works, and then find suitable drivers that will do what is needed to implement this concept.
If you are looking for a monkey coffin with cheaper drivers (or any DIY loudspeaker, really), do not prescribe drivers of certain manufacturers or model series out of the blue and then try to make things work with the prescribed drivers. One should carefully set the build targets in order to develop a clear concept of how the speaker works, and then find suitable drivers that will do what is needed to implement this concept.
I don't know about here, but have seen some projects on the Parts Express projects galleries and Tech Talk forum, that have similar types of speakers to what you seek, using more "pedestrian" drivers at a lower price. Have seen some really cool ones there and some are designed by well regarded contributors to this site as well as many others.
It's a skillset question... Sheet veneering after construction is its own artform and when veneering plywoods the type of corner joints matter when doing a final veneer process since the plys will telegraph through the veneer over time if the plys show in the corners.
I'm assuming multi-ply would be used? Sometimes referred to as Russian ply. It's identified by at least 15 layers as opposed to the typical 5-ply which these days is full of voids and to be avoided IMO. 15 ply is very dense—in the good stuff apple wood is used in the layers. The sheets are often 5x5.
If the carpenter has veneering chops—likely the most "professional" look would be veneering after the boxes are constructed especially if you are looking for a specific wood look. This is considerably more time consuming—but not unusual. In this case you'd build the cabinets out of Russian ply—usually it's birch (occasionally maple) veneered—then you veneer the finished box in your wood of choice.
If you are after a painted finish—build the cabinets out of Russian ply, with whatever corner construction makes sense to your builder, then fill all the edges etc—bondo or high quality wood fillers depending on your final desired finish. You can also use hardwood edge banding on the raw edges if you are careful about the tolerances when contructing.
5x5 multi-ply also comes in pre-finished sheets in a variety of colors. The finishes are super tough. These sheets are available here only from pro shops.
I'm assuming multi-ply would be used? Sometimes referred to as Russian ply. It's identified by at least 15 layers as opposed to the typical 5-ply which these days is full of voids and to be avoided IMO. 15 ply is very dense—in the good stuff apple wood is used in the layers. The sheets are often 5x5.
If the carpenter has veneering chops—likely the most "professional" look would be veneering after the boxes are constructed especially if you are looking for a specific wood look. This is considerably more time consuming—but not unusual. In this case you'd build the cabinets out of Russian ply—usually it's birch (occasionally maple) veneered—then you veneer the finished box in your wood of choice.
If you are after a painted finish—build the cabinets out of Russian ply, with whatever corner construction makes sense to your builder, then fill all the edges etc—bondo or high quality wood fillers depending on your final desired finish. You can also use hardwood edge banding on the raw edges if you are careful about the tolerances when contructing.
5x5 multi-ply also comes in pre-finished sheets in a variety of colors. The finishes are super tough. These sheets are available here only from pro shops.
Pfarrell
Yes it's multi-ply and they can source it already veneered. Corner connection then will be mitered.
I think I will go for that, with the 26mm option I have to do all the calculations and drawings again.
Matthias
I already considered that. The front baffle will be CNC-milled from both sides.
Yes it's multi-ply and they can source it already veneered. Corner connection then will be mitered.
I think I will go for that, with the 26mm option I have to do all the calculations and drawings again.
Matthias
I already considered that. The front baffle will be CNC-milled from both sides.
What Matthias said... plus I also sealed the back panel (foam tape)...and did the math on compression of foam and depth of rabbet to get a flush mount on the baffle when complete—all of which is a little bit guesswork. Oh, and something else I just thought of... I also embedded magnets in the corners from inside the baffle for adding grills. Though—we don't have small kids around much anymore—and I LOVE the look of the speaks sans grills... but the option is there.
