I believe 3U/300 Modushop - as reference - will serve 45W of dissipation, which Old Soul is having per channel
T-Bed is name of (already) Family of my test-bed chassis ; just on first one I made L bracket for pcbs, while later I realized that flat plate is more practical
no - of recent amps, just LuDEF is calling for L or T bracket - because LU1014 on one channel is mounted upside-down
for Old Soul - just rummage through myriad of my amps pictures and you'll see how pcbs can be mounted (original Babelfish M25/SissySITY thread, beginning)
though - for mounting of Ge thingy itself - you'll need piece of L or T bracket
be creative
if in doubt - make a sketch ( back of napkin good enough), post and I'll tell what I think
T-Bed is name of (already) Family of my test-bed chassis ; just on first one I made L bracket for pcbs, while later I realized that flat plate is more practical
no - of recent amps, just LuDEF is calling for L or T bracket - because LU1014 on one channel is mounted upside-down
for Old Soul - just rummage through myriad of my amps pictures and you'll see how pcbs can be mounted (original Babelfish M25/SissySITY thread, beginning)
though - for mounting of Ge thingy itself - you'll need piece of L or T bracket
be creative
if in doubt - make a sketch ( back of napkin good enough), post and I'll tell what I think
I like your address 
you have all the parts going on pcbs, including small heatsinkas and micas for cascode BD and needle end wire terminals for all fat connections, including those on HA!
what you need is thermal pads for mosfets and what you want as lower output (Ge or modern Si) , and input xformer , of course
no Tips and Tricks thread, too much work on other fronts, but whatever you have to ask, just shoot here
there is few tricks ( no more than common sense procedure) and I'll write that procedure as soon someone cries loud enough
input buffer setting being one area, output Iq and DC offset being second area of interest
do not forget to mount mica (plus some goop) for cascode BD
you have all the parts going on pcbs, including small heatsinkas and micas for cascode BD and needle end wire terminals for all fat connections, including those on HA!
what you need is thermal pads for mosfets and what you want as lower output (Ge or modern Si) , and input xformer , of course
no Tips and Tricks thread, too much work on other fronts, but whatever you have to ask, just shoot here
there is few tricks ( no more than common sense procedure) and I'll write that procedure as soon someone cries loud enough
input buffer setting being one area, output Iq and DC offset being second area of interest
do not forget to mount mica (plus some goop) for cascode BD
With what to stuff HA! ?
Howdy friends
Having just build a psu once, the store's universal PSU, I'm only half-sure what to put into the HA which will feed Old Soul... caps aren't too difficult, but what resistors to stuff into? the universal PSU has 4 pcs 0r47 3W, totaling 0r1 12W...
per rail: 4 x 18000 uF 50V, is this overkill? (expensive buggers, but numbers seem nice) - see here
Thank you!
Howdy friends
Having just build a psu once, the store's universal PSU, I'm only half-sure what to put into the HA which will feed Old Soul... caps aren't too difficult, but what resistors to stuff into? the universal PSU has 4 pcs 0r47 3W, totaling 0r1 12W...
per rail: 4 x 18000 uF 50V, is this overkill? (expensive buggers, but numbers seem nice) - see here
Thank you!
R on Cap Bank board - I'm using 0R1/5W WWound (rectangular whities)
just elevate them for 2-3mm and they will last 100 yrs
caps - whatever you fancy, snap-in, which means 10mm pin to pin, up to 35mm Dia
input xformer - schematic shows note with 3 types
also - whichever you fancy
my fave being Cinemag, but nothing wrong with Jensen
of course, nothing wrong with Edcor either, but you'll always have suspicion worm eating ya, they're too cheap
just elevate them for 2-3mm and they will last 100 yrs
caps - whatever you fancy, snap-in, which means 10mm pin to pin, up to 35mm Dia
input xformer - schematic shows note with 3 types
also - whichever you fancy
my fave being Cinemag, but nothing wrong with Jensen
of course, nothing wrong with Edcor either, but you'll always have suspicion worm eating ya, they're too cheap
HA! consists of 2pcs of Cap Bank boards and 2pcs of Mains NTC boards
generally - for simple primary (Europe, one NTC per Donut) , one NTC board is good for 2 Donuts
for Boyz in US, using 2 NTCs per Donut, there are two boards covering 2 Donuts
regarding Cap Bank board - one per channel is good for Dual Mono or Monoblocks
if you got one Cap Bank board, that is my mistake which I will rectify ..... you sure that you unpacked everything ?
