No, I'm not! I designed those PCBs for personal use because I could not find ready-made ones available. I am happy to make copies available to fellow DIYers who like them as they are.
Yep I am looking...there is none at the moment.
There is also another option I learn how to design PCBs...
Maybe someone is interested to make them for us poor greedy drillers who dont want to drill anymore...
))
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Many people just skim over the posts and end up missing valuable bits of information. If you read this one thru the end, you may find something useful.
The HiFi2000 heat sinks, both the single-piece 300mm and the dual-piece 400mm have their fins spaced at 10mm. The same is true for the Conrad heat sink. That means the spaces between the fins also occur in the same 10mm interval. If you have a PCB with mounting holes on a 10mm grid, you can align them with the spaces between the fins and drill through-holes instead of blind-holes.
You can then insert a screw between the fins and attach to a female-female style standoff on the heat sink’s flat surface. That will save you the additional work of tapping those holes.
The HiFi2000 heat sinks, both the single-piece 300mm and the dual-piece 400mm have their fins spaced at 10mm. The same is true for the Conrad heat sink. That means the spaces between the fins also occur in the same 10mm interval. If you have a PCB with mounting holes on a 10mm grid, you can align them with the spaces between the fins and drill through-holes instead of blind-holes.
You can then insert a screw between the fins and attach to a female-female style standoff on the heat sink’s flat surface. That will save you the additional work of tapping those holes.
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Great idea, grimberg - and if you're not lucky enough that all the holes come between the fins, there are any number of videos on youtube on how to tap holes. That's how I learned, and I'm not the least bit handy - but now I have a power amp (ESP P101) to show for it, with heat sinks I drilled/tapped myself. Bring on the M2!
Some people like going to the dentist, too.......but to each his own!
Glad you reminded me, its been 6 months too long since I have visited the dentist. Time to go.
Figuring out solutions for mechanical challenges, or even just refining well known procedures is really gratifying. A few years ago I bought one of this on sale. It takes away a lot of the anxiety associated to tapping threads.
Shop our G8748 - Hand Tapping Machine at Grizzly.com
But even after I became comfortable with the process, I decided that there really isn't any reason to always drill and tap blind holes. That's when I decided to use the female-female style standoff with screws whenever possible.
Shop our G8748 - Hand Tapping Machine at Grizzly.com
But even after I became comfortable with the process, I decided that there really isn't any reason to always drill and tap blind holes. That's when I decided to use the female-female style standoff with screws whenever possible.
They are made in Australia and the company sells them directly. If you only need one pair, try and find other members in the area where you live to share a bigger order. The savings are worth the effort.
Conrad Heatsinks
Conrad Heatsinks
Does anyone know if the Transistor kit in the DiyStore
F-5 Transistor Kit – diyAudio Store (BETA)
Will work for the M2 as well, looking at schematic, answer seems to be yes, but better to ask before spending.
Already reached out to Spencer for the matched pair of input transistors.
Dave
F-5 Transistor Kit – diyAudio Store (BETA)
Will work for the M2 as well, looking at schematic, answer seems to be yes, but better to ask before spending.
Already reached out to Spencer for the matched pair of input transistors.
Dave
Never mind .....
Post 13 clears up my confusion, not the same things at all.... for Q6/7
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/281520-official-m2-schematic-2.html#post4494869
Some how missed that in post 1!
Post 13 clears up my confusion, not the same things at all.... for Q6/7
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/281520-official-m2-schematic-2.html#post4494869
Some how missed that in post 1!
Tapping threads is easy.
What is more tricky is correctly drilling holes in precise locations so that every single hole has less than 0.5 mm error of where it should be.
Adds a few grey hairs every time. Hahahaha