crt said:Thank's Jan
I will use lf356, because i'm on ROCK line.![]()
E..Heemm... Mr CRT have a Rock spirit.....with the LYNX Power Amplifier Project!! Amazing!😉
black said:the av 800 and holton ist wery beast ai laiket fan for anthony![]()
This thread is about the "LYNX" amplifier.
Although I'm not a moderator I'd recommend you to read the forum's regulation roundly before posting again!
hi jan,what distance(mm) from your PCB and Heatsink?
can i separate the heatsink of driver from output transistor?
because i think the pin(foot) of MJE15030 n 15031 is to short.
I will use 30pF to replace the original 33pF
Have you try lf357?
I see in datasheet this op amp is superior than lf356.
I know this devices is discontinue
and this device is still 'sale' in my favorite "electronic shop" with same price with lf356.
thank's
can i separate the heatsink of driver from output transistor?
because i think the pin(foot) of MJE15030 n 15031 is to short.
I will use 30pF to replace the original 33pF
Have you try lf357?
I see in datasheet this op amp is superior than lf356.
I know this devices is discontinue
and this device is still 'sale' in my favorite "electronic shop" with same price with lf356.

thank's
crt;
I use 8 mm spacers, but you ca easily use 10 or 12 mm spacers.
I use 8 mm spacers, but you ca easily use 10 or 12 mm spacers.
??? Please look at the attached picture.can i separate the heatsink of driver from output transistor? because i think the pin(foot) of MJE15030 n 15031 is to short.
Attachments
When you put in so much money(?), I wouldn't use LF357 nor LF356. They are more noisy and designed in the 80's with all this means. OPA134 would proably be an excellent choice if you think OPA627 is too expensive. AD8610 in an adapter (I have nice adapters) would be an even better choice.crt said:Have you try lf357?
I see in datasheet this op amp is superior than lf356.
I know this devices is discontinue
and this device is still 'sale' in my favorite "electronic shop" with same price with lf356.![]()
I have a pair of smd OPA627...somewhere 🙂
OPA627 is slowly getting "old"...would there be a better sounding IC today...maybe AD8610, if I understood Per correctly ?
OPA627 is slowly getting "old"...would there be a better sounding IC today...maybe AD8610, if I understood Per correctly ?
I mean, the driver have a small heatsink (like in DX amp) and separated from the BIG heatsink for output transistor.
I have try to measure the pin only have 9mm length
when i use 10mm spacers the pins will not arrive to the top of PCB.
@peranders
In my town, is very hard to find OPA134 (mostly the shop only have opa2134) and the price is pretty expensive - Rp.75.000 (around US$8)
and the price of LF356 only Rp.4500 (US$0,5)
I don't have paypal or something like that
and I have a very limited budget😀
sorry for my BAD english
I have try to measure the pin only have 9mm length
when i use 10mm spacers the pins will not arrive to the top of PCB.
@peranders
In my town, is very hard to find OPA134 (mostly the shop only have opa2134) and the price is pretty expensive - Rp.75.000 (around US$8)
and the price of LF356 only Rp.4500 (US$0,5)
I don't have paypal or something like that
and I have a very limited budget😀
sorry for my BAD english
It's nothing wrong with OPA627, quite the opposite but today you have tons of good opamps.tinitus said:I have a pair of smd OPA627...somewhere 🙂
OPA627 is slowly getting "old"...would there be a better sounding IC today...maybe AD8610, if I understood Per correctly ?
The driver transistors be mounted on the main heatsink and the pins are sufficiently long. What is the problem really? Why do you want them to be on a separate heatsink?crt said:I mean, the driver have a small heatsink (like in DX amp) and separated from the BIG heatsink for output transistor.
I have try to measure the pin only have 9mm length
when i use 10mm spacers the pins will not arrive to the top of PCB.
I'm sure you can ask nicely if somebody would donate two of their _free_ samples of OPA134crt said:In my town, is very hard to find OPA134 (mostly the shop only have opa2134) and the price is pretty expensive - Rp.75.000 (around US$8)
and the price of LF356 only Rp.4500 (US$0,5)
I don't have paypal or something like that
and I have a very limited budget😀

Hi Jan
I can´t find C114 and c115 on the component list.
But at the schematic it looks like 100nF 150V.
And Vishay MKP 1837 is 160V 10%, perhaps should go there.
For C104, 107, 108, 112, 113, the Vishay MKT 1817 is within the spec of 60V/100V 5% ?
Am I wrong ?
And the 5W resistors are all wirewound ?
regards
I can´t find C114 and c115 on the component list.
But at the schematic it looks like 100nF 150V.
And Vishay MKP 1837 is 160V 10%, perhaps should go there.
For C104, 107, 108, 112, 113, the Vishay MKT 1817 is within the spec of 60V/100V 5% ?
Am I wrong ?

And the 5W resistors are all wirewound ?
regards
I will update all the cap info in the component list later today, and upload it. It also seems like some of the original caps (which I have plenty of stock on for my own use) seems to be hard to get now. Maybe they are even obsolete.....
I will notify you all here when uploaded
I will notify you all here when uploaded
Jan,
Would there be any benefit raising the bias futher than the prescribed 30-50mA, with a lower rail voltage of course?
-John
Would there be any benefit raising the bias futher than the prescribed 30-50mA, with a lower rail voltage of course?
-John
With the ClassAB amps I have built there have been no benefit from raising bias, on the contrary...there always seem to be an exact optimal bias point...usually the amps seem more stable with a specific bias...I usually also judge by the temperature on the heatsinks
Fore a stable soundstage left and right must be exactly alike
Fore a stable soundstage left and right must be exactly alike
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