New Markaudio MA200 8" Driver

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How about using Alpair 5.3 or CHN-40 as tweeter in 3d-printed chamber etc above MA200-M in that plan. Maybe first order PLLXO?

Sure, MA200 makes a good misbass, as did the A12pw, use whatever you want up top. A wide range of crossover points should work.

If you are biampling, you don’t have to worry about the levels. If nyouare trying to put together a passive, the small driver may not be sensitive enuff, given the sensitivity of the 8”. In either cae no need for the Rs.

dave
 
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For floor-standers for the Alpair 12P, you can consider 3 enclosures:
Thanks! Was planning Joan with 12P until this new MA200 came along. Now I’m not certain. Hoping the experts can chime in with which of these two drivers might be a better match for a low powered SET—specifically a 45 type. I currently own FHXLs with MAOP 10 drivers. My 45 monos sound glorious with these speakers but occasionally they run out of steam.
 
Rob7,

What type of musical genres do you mainly listen to? What is your listening distance and listening volume levels?

The MA 200MT sensitivity is slightly higher than the MAOP 10, but unlikely that will alleviate your situation with "running out of steam" with the 45 tube SET. The Alpair 12P again has a little higher sensitivity vs the MA 200MT...

I have read that they 45 type tube SETs can sound really nice with high efficiency speakers; however the output tends to be low (1.5 watts?) and this will eventually have limitations in terms of SPL and low frequency output.
 
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zman01

thanks again for your reply. Yes, the 45 type is quite limiting. I have a set of 101dB speakers and the output levels is significantly greater than the MAOP 10 FHXL… But the FHXL‘s just sound so much better. Was hoping to bridge that gap if even just a little.

High sensitivity and smooth impedance curve = good (with low power SET amps) is the extent of my knowledge. Based on this limited knowledge, the 12 P would seem to slightly edge out the 200MT. But, just wondering if there is more to consider?
 
did anyone find out any tweak for full metal cones to tame the last remaining resonances?

If its only above 10khz I know that these are not quite audible any more as long not peaking in a single high peak but only decaying longer time.
Respectfully disagree re: above 10khz resonance plateau, Alpair 10.3 in particular 7-14khz. Even though I could only hear up to 12khz or so sine wave, I had to keep raising notch filter frequency (by ear) until 10khz the geometric center of the entire plateau (according to company's published response chart, which I examined after finalizing the notch).

Dave's gloss coat tweak worked miracles on another AlMg driver, I reported in that thread.
 
zman01

thanks again for your reply. Yes, the 45 type is quite limiting. I have a set of 101dB speakers and the output levels is significantly greater than the MAOP 10 FHXL… But the FHXL‘s just sound so much better. Was hoping to bridge that gap if even just a little.

High sensitivity and smooth impedance curve = good (with low power SET amps) is the extent of my knowledge. Based on this limited knowledge, the 12 P would seem to slightly edge out the 200MT. But, just wondering if there is more to consider?

Rob7,

Would you consider having a look at your amplification chain too?

I have read the Nelson Pass F4 which itself has zero voltage gain (it has current gain only), can be driven with a low power tube amplifier like a 45 or 300B SET - that way you can enjoy the sonic signature of your 45 tube amp. A DIY F4 would give you 25 watt output @ 8 Ohms and 50 watts @ 4 Ohms - that is significantly higher vs what you have now and will increase the headroom to play your current and future speakers.
 
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Is there any chance you can talk them in to publishing the charts at like 50db to 100db rather than 10db - 110db? ;)
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Rob7,

The F4 is not just another "more powerful amplifier"... it has zero voltage gain, making it different from most of the other amplifiers that are out there. :) In theory using the 45 tube amp as a preamp driving the F4 you should be able to preserve a lot of the 45 amp "sound", but gain more headroom.
 
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Since the F4 has no voltage gain you will never achieve 25w at 8 ohms using the 45 amp as a preamp. The output will be limited by the voltage the 45 can produce which is going to be 4vrms at 2w into 8 ohms. If you have a 16 ohm tap you could use that and gain some output voltage to feed the F4. You will gain current output from the F4 and if you have 4v into 4 ohms it gives you 4 watts. With a 16 ohm tap 2 w = 5.65v which would give you 4 watts out at 8 ohms or 8 watts at 4 ohms. So if you want to keep the 45 in the signal path you will need a gain stage of 4 or more to give you enough output from the 45 8 ohm tap to drive the F4 to 25w at 8 ohms which is 14vrms. You could use the 45 to drive a preamp, then into the F4. In all cases the 45 output needs to be loaded by a resistor across the output terminals. It’s an interesting experiment and it might be useful to speak to someone who has actually done it, or finding someone with an F4 who would be willing to set it up with your speakers to try.
 
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Interesting -- would either amp be at risk (assuming 45se resistor-loaded across terminals)?

Currently I have a lightweight 45se for vintage alnico speakers, supported below by active subs or high-sensitivity woofers (bi-amped). Alas my heavyweight 45se monoblocks are in storage in the States.