Here's two less expensive alternatives:
Faital 12FE330
Dayton 12LF400-8
Both have 8-9mm Xmax. Not much of a problem for home use. In fact, still good.
The 12LF400-8 is low Qts and looks really good in a closed midbass box with QT .5-.7 and easy crossover to a subwoofer. For those who don't mind a little group delay it can be put into a 90ltr box. And those don't mind a tweak or two can add 20, 30 or even 40 grams to the cone.
I've been looking at this tread and these options to upgrade a Peavey TNT130 bass combo amp witch is about 85ltrs. I'm leaning toward the 12LF400-8 due to sales prices right now and I can use one in the cabinet and build a small closed box and use the built in crossover to integrate the two together.
Faital 12FE330
Dayton 12LF400-8
Both have 8-9mm Xmax. Not much of a problem for home use. In fact, still good.
The 12LF400-8 is low Qts and looks really good in a closed midbass box with QT .5-.7 and easy crossover to a subwoofer. For those who don't mind a little group delay it can be put into a 90ltr box. And those don't mind a tweak or two can add 20, 30 or even 40 grams to the cone.
I've been looking at this tread and these options to upgrade a Peavey TNT130 bass combo amp witch is about 85ltrs. I'm leaning toward the 12LF400-8 due to sales prices right now and I can use one in the cabinet and build a small closed box and use the built in crossover to integrate the two together.
wish they made a 15" version too.
unnecessary, but would be nice
unnecessary, but would be nice
Hi guys,
Two of the 12RS430 fell in my lab and now I want to use them for subwoofers. I have no skill in any of the simulation software so maybe someone here can tell me what kind of box to put them in to get the most out of them? Any help/advice is appreciated.
Thanks
Two of the 12RS430 fell in my lab and now I want to use them for subwoofers. I have no skill in any of the simulation software so maybe someone here can tell me what kind of box to put them in to get the most out of them? Any help/advice is appreciated.
Thanks
It needs a ported cabinet something like 125L internal space with 2 slot ports of 20x5x39cm long is what a friend build with it, That way it should work to 30Hz with reasonable air vent speed and no bass boost with dsp or so needed.
I did hear that sub and for his use (a large mancave system) it works very well and goes very loud without being stressed. Tops are older EV speakers (on't remember the type, but 12" midwoofer and CD in horn), all dsp crossover with a DBX Driverrack and older crest amps. He mainly listen to old (pre-2000) hiphop and is an amateur scratch dj on that system.
You probally could make a more optimised system altough. But i never thinkered myself with it. But it gives an ID of what is needed.
I did hear that sub and for his use (a large mancave system) it works very well and goes very loud without being stressed. Tops are older EV speakers (on't remember the type, but 12" midwoofer and CD in horn), all dsp crossover with a DBX Driverrack and older crest amps. He mainly listen to old (pre-2000) hiphop and is an amateur scratch dj on that system.
You probally could make a more optimised system altough. But i never thinkered myself with it. But it gives an ID of what is needed.
So any thoughts on using 2 of these in a 5cuft sealed?
Currently using Beyma 12br70 25hz-800hz. Beyma is a great all rounders and sounds great but always looking for more performance.
Using Focus Fidelity for Room Correction.
It models very similar to a AE TD12S
Just not trying to spend $2500 on 4 AE.
Currently using Beyma 12br70 25hz-800hz. Beyma is a great all rounders and sounds great but always looking for more performance.
Using Focus Fidelity for Room Correction.
It models very similar to a AE TD12S
Just not trying to spend $2500 on 4 AE.
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Shorting rings aren't always necessary on LF drivers for relatively good performance. There are quite a few excellent drivers without impedance control, but that necessitates already low VC inductance to start with.
I agree with others on the front gasket design with these Faital drivers. The look of the cheap gasket really brings down the visual appeal. Alot of other brands do the same. It just looks like 💩.
I agree with others on the front gasket design with these Faital drivers. The look of the cheap gasket really brings down the visual appeal. Alot of other brands do the same. It just looks like 💩.
Which?
I’m using some pretty state of the art convolution so everything is moldable.
This Faital is checking all the boxes. Faster, tighter, lower distortion, more correction friendly, etc etc
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Rear mounting solves that 😉
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I personally don't like the look of rear mounted LF drivers. Its just looks less "refined" to me. Its also harder to access the drivers from the inside of the enclosure, so you need some form of removeable rear panel. This sacrifices enclosure rigidity among other things. Lastly, you lose a little enclosure volume, depending on how critical that is to your design.
Sure. Anyone can cut a sloppy hole in some wood. It takes some time and experience to do a nice clean round over. Plus I think looking at bolts is less refined.
Everything can present problems when you don’t know what you’re doing.
@camrector Care to share how you've attached the woofer to the front baffle ?
I've used threaded inserts before but depending on the length of the insert and thickness of the baffle - that can be an issue. It always forced me to make thicker front baffle than i really needed to.
I've used threaded inserts before but depending on the length of the insert and thickness of the baffle - that can be an issue. It always forced me to make thicker front baffle than i really needed to.
Doubling up on the front baffle is always a good move.
So this being 36mm sinking .75in screws is a breeze. Requires a right angle extension in spots to navigate the bracing
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I think I’ll pull the trigger on these guys. They model exactly like an Acoustic Elegance TD12S.
I’ll report back.
I’ll report back.
