Yes, I should have mentioned the Welwyn W24. These are certainly a high quality part - though not nonInductive like the Mills.
Yep, the larger the current, the more demanding the parts get.
Had the hacksaw out for this 3mm copper:
..and some Dow jam.
Had the hacksaw out for this 3mm copper:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
..and some Dow jam.
Wow! I like it. Someone who has tried stuff. So you can actually report sound differences.
I can see a 12-14watt Mills or Welwyn in my future. 🙂
Another recommendation for the full Welwyn W2x line of vitreous enamelled resistors:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tube...-enamel-vs-wirewound-resistor.html#post324511
AV8R is Tim de Paravicini (EAR/Yoshino), so it's a "Gold Plated" endorsement, I'd say.
Whatcha building Jaap?Yep, the larger the current, the more demanding the parts get.
Had the hacksaw out for this 3mm copper:
OK, this is what's on the table:An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
0.05uS / Div, most likely this is your local FM station
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The local FM antenna is close indeed, at 600 meters D)
The drawing is creative but correct wrt diodes.
Bas, I'm listening to my favorite music with my favorite audio gear, meditating about the Soul of Music. There will be a switch from AC to DC on my 2A3 SET soon. Break on thru to the other side... like Jim used to sing.
The drawing is creative but correct wrt diodes.
Bas, I'm listening to my favorite music with my favorite audio gear, meditating about the Soul of Music. There will be a switch from AC to DC on my 2A3 SET soon. Break on thru to the other side... like Jim used to sing.
Cool! Curious to hear about your findings! (I also have a 2a3 in the planning)Bas, I'm listening to my favorite music with my favorite audio gear, meditating about the Soul of Music. There will be a switch from AC to DC on my 2A3 SET soon. Break on thru to the other side... like Jim used to sing.
Hi Rod,
What is the maximum current that your regulator can conduct? I have a pair of your V7 board and I wonder if I can try them with my 304TH (10V/12.5A).
Thanks,
Duong
What is the maximum current that your regulator can conduct? I have a pair of your V7 board and I wonder if I can try them with my 304TH (10V/12.5A).
Thanks,
Duong
Hi Duong,
Single Regulators can deliver up to 6.5A for the 75TL.
They can also be parallel-connected - 2 Regulators can feed the 833C (10.0V 10A).
12.5A may also be possible - but a higher-power device is required for Q5.
Please send me some email, and I will check on the most suitable components.
Single Regulators can deliver up to 6.5A for the 75TL.
They can also be parallel-connected - 2 Regulators can feed the 833C (10.0V 10A).
12.5A may also be possible - but a higher-power device is required for Q5.
Please send me some email, and I will check on the most suitable components.
Rod,Hi Duong,
Single Regulators can deliver up to 6.5A for the 75TL.
They can also be parallel-connected - 2 Regulators can feed the 833C (10.0V 10A).
12.5A may also be possible - but a higher-power device is required for Q5.
Please send me some email, and I will check on the most suitable components.
Yes the 304TH is basically 4x 75TH in parallel, except for the filaments can be configured to 5V/25A or 10V/12.5A. Obviously I wouldn't want to run at 5V/25A since the power dissipation would be too much (12.5A is already a nightmare).
Running 2 boards in parallel is interesting, though I'm not sure if it's easy to adjust?
Email's sent, thanks alot.
Duong
The Coleman regulator is a current-only control regulator. This allows us to add currents just as Kirchoff's Law says we can. There is no contention between the two regulators.
To balance them, you just measure the voltage across R1, and trim the regulators until R1 has about the same voltage for each regulator. It does not need to be exact, but making them about equal spreads the power dissipation better.
Magz's 833C (10.0V 10A) SE amp "The MidLife Crisis" uses a parallel pair of Coleman regulators to feeds 10A to the 833C, and it works just fine:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubes-valves/232484-midlife-crisis-my-833c-amp-build.html#post3420189
To balance them, you just measure the voltage across R1, and trim the regulators until R1 has about the same voltage for each regulator. It does not need to be exact, but making them about equal spreads the power dissipation better.
Magz's 833C (10.0V 10A) SE amp "The MidLife Crisis" uses a parallel pair of Coleman regulators to feeds 10A to the 833C, and it works just fine:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubes-valves/232484-midlife-crisis-my-833c-amp-build.html#post3420189
Yes, just like putting AA cells (voltage sources) in series, current sources go naturally together in parallel.
I've changed to Welwyn in my 801A preamp. Could only get the 7Watt type (from Mouser) and I think...that I hear a little more hardness in the sound..so to me they appear to be a step back from the standard resistor that the regs came with it.
This is all so subtle that you can take my comments with a grain of salt.
This is all so subtle that you can take my comments with a grain of salt.
It's a surprise to learn that the Welwyn is actually worse - but - component makers have been skimping lately, and maybe the materials have been downgraded. A shame if so.
The resistors that come in the kits as standard have all been thoroughly tested over many samples and values, and always give vanishingly small (microampere) current-noise levels across the spectrum - measuring for the whole regulator. Other than the effect on the heating current, the resistors have very little influence on the sound, because they are well-buffered from the filament itself.
Try a Mills or two. They will either be a delightful experience - or end forever any interest in boutique resistors!
The resistors that come in the kits as standard have all been thoroughly tested over many samples and values, and always give vanishingly small (microampere) current-noise levels across the spectrum - measuring for the whole regulator. Other than the effect on the heating current, the resistors have very little influence on the sound, because they are well-buffered from the filament itself.
Try a Mills or two. They will either be a delightful experience - or end forever any interest in boutique resistors!
I don't think they are worse or better. I think it is more a case that the resistors in that position have very little influence (if any) on the sound. And that my perception of the sound is imagined.It's a surprise to learn that the Welwyn is actually worse - but - component makers have been skimping lately, and maybe the materials have been downgraded.
I'm assuming the quality of the welwyn is the same they have always been.
I'll keep them in there because they appear to be well made and have a 7 Watt rating. And will reserve boutique resistors for places where they'll have more effect. 🙂
I appear to have become a naysayer lately as I also found a CCS vs a resistor on pin 20 on a PCM 1794 DAC to make little to no difference. Where others reported a big improvement. Maybe I expect too much. Or maybe I tinker too often with my system. Perhaps if I listen to exactly the same configuration for months on end. I'll hear changes better. Or maybe they still need to break in...haha. 😉
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They look the same as Welwyn in an Audio Innovations 300 MK II I repaired a while ago. The AI was made 20 plus years ago?and maybe the materials have been downgraded
This position I don't like medium sized resistors as Welwyn W22.
10 Pcs Welwyn W22 R10J 0 1R 0 1 Ohm 5 Power 7W Wirewound Resistors | eBay
I use constantly 14W W24 Welwyn, I'm satisfied with it.
10 Pcs Welwyn W22 R10J 0 1R 0 1 Ohm 5 Power 7W Wirewound Resistors | eBay
I use constantly 14W W24 Welwyn, I'm satisfied with it.
Yep. Those are the ones I used.This position I don't like medium sized resistors as Welwyn W22.
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