It will, but since the Fane has a peaking on-axis HF response some will still leak through, albeit rather corrupted. Far from being ideal for most home audio use, though it would probably serve for more restricted BW purposes.
I don't have any gear for measuring it.
It sounds to be well over 500Hz though.
The TV played through it sounds like you are there.
I wonder if your Fane W-bin's large throat and reflector type allows more highs overall than say the Klipsch "rubber throat" and its "ramps" - ?
a little 18" driver Fane type with ported back chamber - I'd like to sim it but don't know the distance between its speaker baffle and rear of cabinet YouTube
Klipsch Belle plan - the Belle was basically a "flattened" La Scala https://www.audioasylum.com/usr/1/12706/klipsch-belle-plan-3-3-web.jpg
a little 18" driver Fane type with ported back chamber - I'd like to sim it but don't know the distance between its speaker baffle and rear of cabinet YouTube
Klipsch Belle plan - the Belle was basically a "flattened" La Scala https://www.audioasylum.com/usr/1/12706/klipsch-belle-plan-3-3-web.jpg
Rockville RGS15 Single 15" Sealed Car Sub Enclosure Box 2.03 Cu Ft, 3/4" MDF | eBay
Would someone sim the 15 incher into the above box ..... with + 0.3 volume increase (stuffing)
Would someone sim the 15 incher into the above box ..... with + 0.3 volume increase (stuffing)
I think you'd be better off with an open baffle (maybe with wings) - it was cool that it simmed pretty nice in Nigel's W-bin
resonance looks around 90Hz
resonance looks around 90Hz
I need something to play loud enough to carry out the door into my back yard
with some bass. O.B. (with the 12"ers) is good in the room, but doesn't pressureize
enough to go through the door.
with some bass. O.B. (with the 12"ers) is good in the room, but doesn't pressureize
enough to go through the door.
I used to have a pair of the Fane 15" cabs, with McKenzie 200W drivers in them, (can't remember what model it was in the late 80's) with a 1"CD crossed at 1K [a bit too low actually, many diaphragms were used!] and while it sounded OK, it was certainly missing something.
Maybe I should get the sawdust flying again!
Maybe I should get the sawdust flying again!
- @hitsware - it might sound like it has some bass outdoors even in that stuffed 2 cubic foot box - I've run a nasty (sounds horrid inside - up close) little Klam8 outdoors with a high cutoff and cheap Sammisound 8 inch FR and at 150ft "loud" and at 75ft like a rock concert. How long it would play at that level = 😀 My klam 15 and probably klam 12 sound pretty good - with my atrophied shoulder muscles, are too heavy to lift upon a tripod. For the little klam, maybe some melamine sponges in the front chamber would help fidelity.
the little klam had maybe 10dB more to go than this video which overloaded the camera's audio up close
YouTube
the little klam had maybe 10dB more to go than this video which overloaded the camera's audio up close
YouTube
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I don't mean put the speakers outside.
I mean have the speakers as my inside system,
but be able to crank them loud enough to
hear through the open door …..
I mean have the speakers as my inside system,
but be able to crank them loud enough to
hear through the open door …..
I will just say that my setup is most definitely loud enough to be heard outside. Have not yet tickled the drivers more than maybe +/- 0,5-0,7mm in the box, toyed with them and got +/- 2mm in a small U baffle (with lots of EQ).
They are in an 80 liter closed box, dampening material is a mix of egg-crate shaped open cell foam (double layer just behind the driver), and 100% natural wool (behind the OCF). all the sides are internally coupled together by small beams, with an "x" of 2x2cm thick strips of spruce centered on every internal surface the beams are connected, and there is a solid ring of 3mm hard carbon steel around the connector cups (used tec7 as "lube" to get them in place = permanently stuck). So nothing fancy, but more than adequate. Building material is 15mm OSB with an extra layer of 12mm cheap but quality ply on the front baffle to make the drivers flush. Might get some 3-6mm ply on the sides for aesthetics, but still undecided.
Starts rolling off at 80hz. I also got that "bump" centered 90-100hz during sims, but it's not at all significant/noticeable in my room.
They are in an 80 liter closed box, dampening material is a mix of egg-crate shaped open cell foam (double layer just behind the driver), and 100% natural wool (behind the OCF). all the sides are internally coupled together by small beams, with an "x" of 2x2cm thick strips of spruce centered on every internal surface the beams are connected, and there is a solid ring of 3mm hard carbon steel around the connector cups (used tec7 as "lube" to get them in place = permanently stuck). So nothing fancy, but more than adequate. Building material is 15mm OSB with an extra layer of 12mm cheap but quality ply on the front baffle to make the drivers flush. Might get some 3-6mm ply on the sides for aesthetics, but still undecided.
Starts rolling off at 80hz. I also got that "bump" centered 90-100hz during sims, but it's not at all significant/noticeable in my room.
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Lanzar - OPTI1024 - Opti-Drive Pro 10'' Coaxial Full Range 4 Ohm Subwoofer
If I beef up my amps and go 4 Ohm I might make it ?
If I beef up my amps and go 4 Ohm I might make it ?
at that low price (shipped) and good reviews (Amazon) that Lanzar may be very good - plus could use it with guitar as one reviewer did.
I don't know where to get Fane in the US since MCM sold to Newark. My 250TC did not bump in a Karlson K12 - but it had no low bass - it played clearly without artifacts which can happen if the midrange is too anemic.
I don't know where to get Fane in the US since MCM sold to Newark. My 250TC did not bump in a Karlson K12 - but it had no low bass - it played clearly without artifacts which can happen if the midrange is too anemic.
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Had a couple of weeks to get into my Fane 15-300TC in a W bin.
I am finding it sounds excellent.
I usually end up going back to my 1980's Fane 12-50WRMS w bin but the 15 inch sounds great. Highly recommended.
I am finding it sounds excellent.
I usually end up going back to my 1980's Fane 12-50WRMS w bin but the 15 inch sounds great. Highly recommended.
I run mine fullrange, no high pass filter, and have not seen the cone moving at all. I can feel the cones are moving when I touch them, but that's it. I have them in a backloaded horn, which reduces excursion a bit.
You know, I didn't know which to choose, the 12" or the 15". I expected more treble and smoother sound from the 12. But my interest for laaaarge fullrange drivers was created by trying out 3", 4", 8" and then 10" drivers. I love the dynamics and powerhandling of a larger driver.
So this pushed me towards the 15" and this is fantastic. The response plot is pretty normal for any fullrange driver and the large cone and efficiency make for stunning dynamics and low distortion. It's in the same league or much improved from various Lowthers and derivatives I have heard (owned a pair of Lowthers myself).
So if you want loud and powerhandling, go 15". Regardless of how well the 12" handles it, the 15" will be better and it is good.
And if Fane decides to make and 18" tricone fullrange and it meets their standards for release, I WILL buy it. 😀
So this pushed me towards the 15" and this is fantastic. The response plot is pretty normal for any fullrange driver and the large cone and efficiency make for stunning dynamics and low distortion. It's in the same league or much improved from various Lowthers and derivatives I have heard (owned a pair of Lowthers myself).
So if you want loud and powerhandling, go 15". Regardless of how well the 12" handles it, the 15" will be better and it is good.
And if Fane decides to make and 18" tricone fullrange and it meets their standards for release, I WILL buy it. 😀
I hope sometime there will be a US seller. Drop Fane some fan - mail and tell them there's a huge market for an 18" FR with double whizzers which can reach 15KHz or better 😀
I know, right? The only reason anyone ever bothers with subs and fast/waw constructions is because the fullrange driver isn't big and manly enough. ;-)
Seriously though, the 15" sounds very good, not rough at all (unless the recording tells it to). People will say that the fullrange mid is so good, one takes deficiencies in treble and bass for granted. I think treble was already good with many drivers, by now we have some fullrange drivers that are also very capable for bass (and still good at the midrange thing).
Seriously though, the 15" sounds very good, not rough at all (unless the recording tells it to). People will say that the fullrange mid is so good, one takes deficiencies in treble and bass for granted. I think treble was already good with many drivers, by now we have some fullrange drivers that are also very capable for bass (and still good at the midrange thing).
they simplify things vs trying to get a smooth and coherent crossover with a coaxial. I still like coaxial for my Karlson stuff as a moderately strong motor is helpful.
Thomas ships to the US. They are out of stock at the moment but they are probably your best bet.