Yes, I did listen to the 15" by itself in OB before I made the boxes.
These speakers are quite sensitive, so you do not need a lot of power to make them play loud.
But if you will be using them in OB, you should consider using some EQ or DSP to get bass from this speaker (would also require a reasonably powerful amp of maybe around 100 very clean watts or so), this will also help to break them in a bit faster than if you're using boxes.
Thinking about it, perhaps a simple old-skool pre stage with the classic +/- bass and treble knobs would be enough, add a good old "rumble" filter and you should be relatively safe from over excursion.
But if you're using a bigger box, you need less eq and power, but you still need some firm control, so maybe 15 clean watts is enough for home use.
How would you like to test the amplifiers?
If you are thinking of using these as sort of a cheap "sacrificial" 15" to avoid burning your more expensive speakers, then yes, they would work very well.
Perhaps you would even prefer these cheap 15" to some more advanced multi-way speakers.
These speakers are quite sensitive, so you do not need a lot of power to make them play loud.
But if you will be using them in OB, you should consider using some EQ or DSP to get bass from this speaker (would also require a reasonably powerful amp of maybe around 100 very clean watts or so), this will also help to break them in a bit faster than if you're using boxes.
Thinking about it, perhaps a simple old-skool pre stage with the classic +/- bass and treble knobs would be enough, add a good old "rumble" filter and you should be relatively safe from over excursion.
But if you're using a bigger box, you need less eq and power, but you still need some firm control, so maybe 15 clean watts is enough for home use.
How would you like to test the amplifiers?
If you are thinking of using these as sort of a cheap "sacrificial" 15" to avoid burning your more expensive speakers, then yes, they would work very well.
Perhaps you would even prefer these cheap 15" to some more advanced multi-way speakers.
The frequency response greatly influences the sound of a loudspeaker. If you want to hear the character of The amplifiers, the loudspeakers should be balanced. The Fane 15" has a rising midrange and treble, which needs correction if you want to listen to the amplifiers.
But it doesn't have to be perfect, I had good effects with just three parametric filters set up in the mediaplayer (raspberry pi with volumio). This corrected the basic rising trend enough).
That's a difficult question. They can all sound good and bad, and room influence plays a big role in end result. My room has quite a lot of reflections, so open baffle does not work very well.
Member
Joined 2009
Paid Member
thimios, I found very satisfiying performance using a single 15" full range driver in a large open back box: A Big'un - the Audio Nirvana Super 15
The large box is reminiscent of a U-baffle
I suspect the fane does not have such a balanced frequency response in the treble
given the price of the fane, I think it's worth trying
The large box is reminiscent of a U-baffle
I suspect the fane does not have such a balanced frequency response in the treble
given the price of the fane, I think it's worth trying
Hi Gareth,i haven't the money to buy speakers, two or three times to try.
I'm looking for something good for sure!
Member
Joined 2009
Paid Member
There are no guarantees in life
If you want first time right And you don’t have a chance to listen first then I’m not convinced the Fane is your best choice without EQ, but there are many other proven projects on the forum. One example is a pencil based on Mark audio and there are other examples if you search around
If you want first time right And you don’t have a chance to listen first then I’m not convinced the Fane is your best choice without EQ, but there are many other proven projects on the forum. One example is a pencil based on Mark audio and there are other examples if you search around
Some time ago (fresh driver, note sharp irregularities around 10kHz) I made measurements of a 12-250TC at many (horizontal) angles in an open baffle. The blue curve in the middle is the acoustic power, averaged across the angles. Note that there are no prominent peaks in the response, equal to not much resonances. There are broad dips at 2.8 and 5kHz, I did not notice them audibly so far. I suppose the peaks and dips in the individual measurements result from reflections inside the various cones
. Didn't save a waterfall - but I reckon it looked ugly. I like this method more, waterfall graphs may look nice but are prone to processing errors. Hope this helps you.I will repeat the measurements once both drivers are broken in and I finally got time for it.
Attachments
Last edited:
This was measurement of a 12-250tc taken outdoors on tripod, in a non ideal shaped but heavily stuffed cabinet with an Earthworks M30 microphone.
Just to add that using eq with a DSP the ringing all but disappears, add to that 200 taps of FIR and it is a very nice picture, the Sure DSP is more than capable as is the ADAU1701 freedsp.
The FIR trace was a dirty measurement indoors with foam lense, FIR file created with RePhase.
Attachments
Last edited:
New LCR notch, now 9.5 ohms // 4uF // 0.24mH (2 x 0.12mH in series).
It sounds better, to my ears this is not the 2.5KHz area which is annoying but around 8KHz.
Next I'll remove it because I ordered a DAYTON AUDIO DSP-408.
BUT
I use a tube amp with no feedback, DF is about 5 which is acceptable but a little bit low for this driver.
Is it a good idea to tame the Fs impedance in this case?
12mH inductors are affordable (20eur) and if capacitor film is prefered, it's possible to find some 47uF for cheap (18 in //).
Does it worth it?
It sounds better, to my ears this is not the 2.5KHz area which is annoying but around 8KHz.
Next I'll remove it because I ordered a DAYTON AUDIO DSP-408.
BUT
I use a tube amp with no feedback, DF is about 5 which is acceptable but a little bit low for this driver.
Is it a good idea to tame the Fs impedance in this case?
12mH inductors are affordable (20eur) and if capacitor film is prefered, it's possible to find some 47uF for cheap (18 in //).
Does it worth it?
