Need recomendations for 3-5" midrange driver?

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How is this Dayton woofer gonna perform vs. the Pyle PPA15 he already has?
Since the 15" and 8" Bill currently has are a little redundant anyway and he listens to rock, using the PPA15, his new Peerless mid and whatever he decides to go with for a tweeter might be a simpler Pro-style 3-way.
 
diyAudio Member
Joined 2007
Dayton models with a much lower peak and has better power handling as it works quite well in 70 liters, and I have a fancy for 3.5 way old fashioned boxes.

In fact that Dayton has a Qtc of 0.8 when modeled in that volume against the robust "Q" of 1.4 of the Pyle, and I know which I prefer.

The OP mentioned that he had a large (12mH ) inductor that he was already using as a first order on the 15inch woofer, I am suggesting he keeps it in place to give a boost to the lows from 100Hz down and cutting the 8inch at around 300Hz.

I personally would not be using that particular small woofer above 500 due to the obvious distortion it has in the upper registers, but it looks very good lower down
 
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There was a thread I took part in a while ago, where some-one was having trouble with a 3-way; from memory the poster on that thread crossed it around 400 passive.

I like to cross to the mid-range as low as possible but as the Dayton Classic models as giving maximum SPL at around 120/150Hz I'd try and cross about there.
But it does depend on the mid driver doesn't it? No good using 150 as the cross point if the mid has an in box resonance close to that point.

http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/295-325s.pdf

Because of the dip at 500 and the sharp peak at 1500 I wouldn't use it above 250/300, old "Rule of thumb " XO point anyway.
At that price point i'd use them in pairs for much better power handling and lower distortion, biggest drawback I can see would be the big box needed

Bill I hope we haven't lost you here!
 
So when compared to the Pyle PPA or even this Selenium 15PW3 I'm considering for my project,

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-338

how would you describe the differences? Are the Pyle and Selenium better for higher crossover points because they are ProAudio design and the Dayton better for lower bass? 300hz is the highest I'll cross them over so extended mid bass is not what I'm looking for.
 
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That link doesn't work for me' but I can't comment on actual performance as I've never used the drivers you ask about, happy to comment on graphed performance when I can see it tho.
i've always thought that pro audio and home audio have disparate goals tho.
 
Link fixed.

How would you describe the differences in HomeAudio vs. ProAudio? I know most ProAudio stuff is efficient which makes it louder easier. The Selenium woofer got rave reviews and I have the room for one of them per side or even a pair of the Dayton's per side. Decisions decisions.

Sorry for hi-jacking your thread Bill but your cabinets look alot like what I'm in the process of building and our combination of drivers will be similar. Now that you have gotten a little better grasp on the world of Hi-Fi don't forget to factor in personal taste and prefference. Science and math aside, there is seldom 100% agreement on how to go about achieving the same end result, sorta like Politics and Religion. So, as the old saying goes, when in the company of friends and family, never discuss politics, religion or Hi-Fi as things will turn nasty for sure.

Do you intend to sit down in front of these and listen to music or will you be standing and/or walking around the house? I think the Peerless mid you just ordered is gonna sound great regardless so it might be best to get it installed and then listen for awhile and keep perusing this site so as to grow your Hi-Fi knowledge for your next modification. It is addictive and now that I have finished moving I can really get started on the 3 projects I have planned.
 
Moondog55 said:

Thanks Moondog55!

You have been exceedingly kind, generous and an absolute gentleman to me, and I am very grateful! When I ask a pointed question you are the first and often the only one to give a pointed reply. I will download and practice with the software you have referred me to.



:)
 
Moondog55 said:
Ho ! Bill

I was looking through websites and I saw this was on special.
I know that your funds are short but I think this would be an ideal replacement for your Pyle 15, if you want to keep that hole and bottom chamber in use.
Plug the numbers into that box program from Jeff Bagby and see what it looks like.


http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-325

Thanks Moondog55!

I think you are absolutely right, they are ideal choices. I will purchase these early next year (or sooner depending on our budget).



:)
 
Moondog55 said:
There was a thread I took part in a while ago, where some-one was having trouble with a 3-way; from memory the poster on that thread crossed it around 400 passive.

I like to cross to the mid-range as low as possible but as the Dayton Classic models as giving maximum SPL at around 120/150Hz I'd try and cross about there.
But it does depend on the mid driver doesn't it? No good using 150 as the cross point if the mid has an in box resonance close to that point.

http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/295-325s.pdf

Because of the dip at 500 and the sharp peak at 1500 I wouldn't use it above 250/300, old "Rule of thumb " XO point anyway.
At that price point i'd use them in pairs for much better power handling and lower distortion, biggest drawback I can see would be the big box needed

Bill I hope we haven't lost you here!

Well Moondog55,

lets just say I’m lagging way behind but struggling to keep up with you all!


:(
 
diyAudio Member
Joined 2007
Bill when you start plugging numbers into box programs i think you will get an indication of why certain drivers work well and others don't.

I think that the Peerless will work well, just bear in mind that 3-way speakers are hard to get right, 3.5 ways a bit harder again and you may well spend a lot of time tweaking the XO.
As you may well be tweaking for a long time, I would suggest you build the XO external ( build a wooden box to sit on the floor ) it also has the added advantage of being less disturbed by the magnetic field of the drivers.

Fixer"
The main difference I see between pro drivers and "audiophile" drivers is the trade-off between efficiency and bass extension.
Hoffmans Iron rule prevails
 
Moondog55 said:
Bill when you start plugging numbers into box programs i think you will get an indication of why certain drivers work well and others don't.

I think that the Peerless will work well, just bear in mind that 3-way speakers are hard to get right, 3.5 ways a bit harder again and you may well spend a lot of time tweaking the XO.
As you may well be tweaking for a long time, I would suggest you build the XO external ( build a wooden box to sit on the floor ) it also has the added advantage of being less disturbed by the magnetic field of the drivers.

Fixer"
The main difference I see between pro drivers and "audiophile" drivers is the trade-off between efficiency and bass extension.
Hoffmans Iron rule prevails

Hello Moondog55!

I have now downloaded WinISD Beta, read the manual and figured out how to use the program and practiced with it.

I have also downloaded Jeff Bagby’s software, unfortunately I couldn’t find the manual, but did figure out how to use the Box Calculator and the Baffle Diffraction Response Model. I’m waiting until the morning to tackle the first two apps!

I have recently included (to the extent she can tolerate) my wife in to the project. She agrees with GWEE and thinks we should look into replacing the tweeter’s if a reasonably priced set can be found. Do you (or others) have any suggestions for 1” to 2” diameter textile or silk soft dome tweeter’s that would mate well with the Peerless driver’s in the 3000Hz and up range?

Bill.


P.S. Should I start a new thread for the tweeter query?




:confused:
 
diyAudio Member
Joined 2007
Do you want my personal opinion?/
I'd go for the Vifa Neo tweeter in the previous link
Because
1/ it has great response to 40k

2/ It is small; which means C2C distance Mid to Tweeter will also be small

look at Zaph Audio tweeter mish mash

http://www.zaphaudio.com/tweetermishmash/

3/ I think it is good value for money

4/ reputation for being easy to design cross-overs for

5/ probably irrelevant but I've used it and find it neutral in sound

6/ happy crossed over around 3K / 2nd order
 
Moondog55 said:
Do you want my personal opinion?/
I'd go for the Vifa Neo tweeter in the previous link
Because
1/ it has great response to 40k

2/ It is small; which means C2C distance Mid to Tweeter will also be small

look at Zaph Audio tweeter mish mash

http://www.zaphaudio.com/tweetermishmash/

3/ I think it is good value for money

4/ reputation for being easy to design cross-overs for

5/ probably irrelevant but I've used it and find it neutral in sound

6/ happy crossed over around 3K / 2nd order


I am unclear as to which vifa model number is the tweeter you refer to. Is it the Vifa xt 25 or the Vifa xt25sc50?
 
Hey you guys!

I am ready to design the crossovers for the speakers. I like and intend to purchase the Vifa D26NC-55-06 tweeters as soon as we have the funds. We do have funds to begin the crossovers however. For instance we can order parts and assemble the Zobel networks and the crossover components for the drivers since I have the data necessary (with the online specs provided for the D26NC-55-06) at hand.

Am I missing anything I need to have before proceeding?

Thanks, Bill.


Post Script: I remembered the tweeters were replaced some years after the original build. I Googled the numbers behind the face plate and they turned out to be Vifa D26TG-05-06 tweeters (http://www.madisound.com/catalog/PDF/D26TG05-06.pdf). The specs don’t look as good as the Vifa D26NC-55-06. What do you think about using them with the crossover / Zobel network I will design for the D26NC-05 until we have the money for said tweeters?
:)
 
diyAudio Member
Joined 2007
Very good question.
Short answer is no, crossovers are usually designed for specific drivers BUT, that Vifa D26TG-05-06 isn't a bad tweeter.

What you face if you use one then the other is reworking the baffle for the different sizes and shapes of the tweeter face plates.
I like the Neo tweeter mainly because of the small size of the faceplate, which allows smaller C2C distances, which means less comb filtering.

That Neo tweeter is in short supply and we never know when supplies will dry up.
If you have a bit of discretion I'd say buy the tweeters and wait for a while to build the XO.
I am a little lucky; I have 2 pair of those waiting to find a good use, I purchased 3 sets a long while ago on a close-out locally.

Bill I have just about used up what little knowledge and experience I have, I'm now hoping that some-one better than I am will now jump in and help with XO design for you.
P:S did you get the email??
 
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