It would be great if you could run the FF85 as Dave suggested, they are fantastic.
You've already cut the enclosure down some, how 'bout cutting off the top and leave just the 15 and 8 in it? You could surely come up with something to go on top for the new mid and tweeter that would compliment the lower triangular tower. Maybe leave the 15's disconnected until you can get a seperate sub amp. Do away with the tweeter altogether and just make a simple crossover for the 8" and FF85 as it will really soar in the upper frequencies without the help of a tweeter.
I realize the value these have to you and their history but making great sound should be a priority as well.
You've already cut the enclosure down some, how 'bout cutting off the top and leave just the 15 and 8 in it? You could surely come up with something to go on top for the new mid and tweeter that would compliment the lower triangular tower. Maybe leave the 15's disconnected until you can get a seperate sub amp. Do away with the tweeter altogether and just make a simple crossover for the 8" and FF85 as it will really soar in the upper frequencies without the help of a tweeter.
I realize the value these have to you and their history but making great sound should be a priority as well.
To calculate baffle step you use 4560/box width in inches which for your towers is 207hz. You should crossover just below this which is right on for the 8" and probably even the 15" if it is a Pro style woofer and not a SubWoofer. You would also need to move the 8" up as close to the mid/tweet as possible to avoid phase and combing issues. Pretty much a redo of the front panel/baffle.
Ironically I'm building enclosures about that size for a 15" woofer and it needs all that volume just for itself. What more do you know about the 15" woofer?
You basically want to keep the look of these for memory sake correct, not so much the drivers?
Ironically I'm building enclosures about that size for a 15" woofer and it needs all that volume just for itself. What more do you know about the 15" woofer?
You basically want to keep the look of these for memory sake correct, not so much the drivers?
901Fixer said:
Yes, for memory sake.
If you or anyone else would like to contact or send info directly to me you may do so at trailerparkwomen@hotmail.com
The PPA specs are as follows: (also see pic)
power (watts peak/ RMS) 800 - 250
Nom. Impedance 8 Ohm
Fs (HZ) 26.7
Qms 2.69
Qes 0.89
Qts 0.67
SPL (DB) 90.2
VAS (cu ft) 11.357
xmax(MM) Not listed
Voice coil 2.5"ksv
Magnet 70 oz
cone paper
surrond cloth
spider super
dust cap poly-concave
frame stamped steel
terminals spade
backplate bumped & vented
Attachments
Bill I like the look of the boxes and I understand why you'd want to keep them as close to the original as possible.
As I calculate things you have a box, the total volume of which is just on 190 liters, which is a little small for that Pyle woofer.
It sits tall off the floor on those legs too.
Would you consider making a second smaller tower and keeping the 15 as a bass boost cabinet??
As I calculate things you have a box, the total volume of which is just on 190 liters, which is a little small for that Pyle woofer.
It sits tall off the floor on those legs too.
Would you consider making a second smaller tower and keeping the 15 as a bass boost cabinet??
Moondog55 said:
I want to wrap these up as best as possible in their current incarnation and put this rig in the living room early next year.
I intend to build a HT set of "kit" speakers early next year when I have done the research and have the money.
Currently I am broker than broke and would like to complete these speakers for two hundred dollars or less, just to have something "decent" to listen to my vinyl with via my old Pioneer rig in the interim.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/sho...126&FTR=832873 &CFID=7920147&CFTOKEN=89898881
This is what i have not sure if thats what your looking for......
This is what i have not sure if thats what your looking for......
Big_Bill said:
You are basically missing the most important range of sound, what a full range driver does well, 200hz to 5khz, this is actually a good thing because you can now do it right. The driver you get to make this work is what you will hear the most.
The 15" is in 2.5 cuft, is this what Pyle suggested? The label says that its a Pro Audio woofer for small enclosures but also has an Fs of 26hz so should really be able to dig. It needs to have its own amp and be actively crossed over. Until the funds are available to do this leave it as is but disconnected.
For now just worry about the 8" and what ever new driver you get and the crossover for them as a 2-way. The FF85 is a mid/tweet so your existing tweeter may be eliminated.
If you stick around here long enough and listen to what the folks here have to say you won't wanna build the HT kit speakers you mentioned. I too came here with ideas and plans just to find out the inherent flaws in design or combination. Most here prefer the simplest most cost effective route to Hi-Fi so if what they suggest is opposite of what you were thinking its because your plan is/was overcomplicated or just not easy to implement.
You want the speakers in the pictures to look like they do and sound as good as they can for under $200 even if every driver in them was replaced, correct? Let the fanatics steer you.
I think you already know what the problem is, if the midrange is poor it really doesn't matter what happens to the bass and treble.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/sho...126&FTR=832873 &CFID=7920147&CFTOKEN=89898881
This price is unbeatable for a high quality midrange, get a pair and then ask for help with developing the correct XO, but I'd start with Petes advice on the Zobel, low pass the 8inch down low, 300Hz first or second order, I'd use a second order on the Peerless and high pass it around 3K.
I would keep the Pyle low-passed using the existing 12mH coil, that 8inch looks good below 500 but ragged and peaky above that.
the Peerless is supposed to be silky smooth and well able to handle high power with the correct XO
Performance graph for Peerless driver
http://www.speakerbits.com/net/catalogs/showpic1.aspx?id=PD150A
Notice our price in OZ is AUD$103- each
http://www.speakerbits.com/net/catalogs/showpic1.aspx?id=PD150A
Notice our price in OZ is AUD$103- each
Big_Bill said:
I totally understand what you are experiencing as I am still a newby and find basic information I was unaware of regularly. I'm certainly not suggesting you need to replace all of the drivers but you definately need to add a mid as you don't have one. Your affection is for the enclosures and not the drivers, you said youself they sounded bad.
The quicker you answer questions posed the quicker you can get answers. There will varying opinion on how you should proceed and since your target date for them to be ready isn't until early next year take your time and mull it all over.
Moondog55 said:
Thanks for your kind words Ted.
I’m not quite sure where I went wrong in my posts. I’ll try now to clarify what I’m thinking. My speaker cabinets sounded like crap when they were 6’ tall and had the original drivers in them. I’ve since cut the cabinets down and replaced the 15” and the 8” drivers, the only driver I am unhappy with now is the 3.5” Pyle closed back driver, which dates from the original build. I want to keep the style of the cabinet, but I can patch the front baffle in order to properly “baffle step” or space whichever replacement upper mid and or tweeter that is best (within my budget of $200.00) from the current AV8” driver. I want to do this now; the kit speakers are what will have to wait until early next year. I realize whatever I do going forward with these cabinets will be a compromise.
I now know from advice received here that the “baffle step” for the 15” and 8” driver is incorrect. I will disconnect the 15” driver and let the 8” driver just roll off at the bottom. I think it responds fairly low by itself from what I’ve read.
I don’t know whether to go with the Peerless (832873) 5.25” that you and others have recommended to replace the 3.5” Pyle and band pass it to work with my existing 1” soft dome tweeter, or the Fostex (FE103) Dave recommended to replace the 3.5” Pyle and the 1” soft dome tweeter so that there is no crossover point in that “critical” range?
Is it possible with my cabinets in there curent incarnation to properly space one of these two possible replacement drivers from the AV8” to avoid the phase and combing issues I have read about here?
What do you think?
With all due respect for Dave and the Fostex, it is my opinion ( and remember it is just an "Opinion" ) in your instance I'd use the Peerless driver with a suitable new XO and try and use whatever tweeter you have in the short term.
I understand "Broke" I've been unemployed now for close to 9 months and we are living on my wifes wage.
Do you have any information there on your current tweeter?
I'd follow the advice you've been given and roll off the woofer at or around 300Hz, band pass the Peerless 300 - 3000; and then high pass the tweeter using whatever XO slope gives the best results.
Perhaps you need to find another 15 inch for the bottom octave too as a 12mH inductor aint cheap, you already have it and 3.5 way speakers can have great bottom end.
Just remember that it would need to be an 8R driver or whichever amp you are using may have trouble.
The volume you have in the top of the cabinet may be a little large for the Peerless mid but that is an easy fix.
You may want to mount the tweeter under the midrange if you want your tweeter at ear height.
Can you find a cheap 15 inch car sub ( second - hand ) with dual 4Ohm voice coils?? Easy way to get an 8R driver and car subs are usually designed for small volumes ; low Vas.
The midrange is where most of the quality is in the system and as we have said you can start by getting that right.
you can probably sell that Pyle driver in the "Trading Post"
i'm contactable by email if that helps
I understand "Broke" I've been unemployed now for close to 9 months and we are living on my wifes wage.
Do you have any information there on your current tweeter?
I'd follow the advice you've been given and roll off the woofer at or around 300Hz, band pass the Peerless 300 - 3000; and then high pass the tweeter using whatever XO slope gives the best results.
Perhaps you need to find another 15 inch for the bottom octave too as a 12mH inductor aint cheap, you already have it and 3.5 way speakers can have great bottom end.
Just remember that it would need to be an 8R driver or whichever amp you are using may have trouble.
The volume you have in the top of the cabinet may be a little large for the Peerless mid but that is an easy fix.
You may want to mount the tweeter under the midrange if you want your tweeter at ear height.
Can you find a cheap 15 inch car sub ( second - hand ) with dual 4Ohm voice coils?? Easy way to get an 8R driver and car subs are usually designed for small volumes ; low Vas.
The midrange is where most of the quality is in the system and as we have said you can start by getting that right.
you can probably sell that Pyle driver in the "Trading Post"
i'm contactable by email if that helps
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