Yes.
Well, 'BIB' rules down low, but with your setup, performance goals, narrow BW, budget; then again, you could go with the relatively inexpensive 12- 15" mobile audio subs and if 12", then even two more 12" (front/back sides opposed) 'down the road' if getting house destruction VLF becomes the primary performance goal.
Should I look into TQWT subs then ?
I also think I will have enough power, what will limit me is the power the driver could handle.
Gotcha, so by definition, they need to be opposed, both 'firing' at the same time, going in the own direction. (screenshot 1 and doodle one)
or could I Make something like screenshot 2 ? I guess its not sealed anymore. or like the back of the driver is sealed, but the front is 'throwing' into some kind of short port. (think its called 4 or 6th order IIRC)
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What’s the B&C?
That’s like 2 and 3 times the space I have avalaible.
It gets low? What’s that’s type of subwoofer and what are its avantages ?!
I dunno about the B&C (18ds115)yet.. havent tried it in this(green graph). White is the dayton. When I grow up I will
likely put the um18’s in sealed boxes with dayton sa1000 plate amp and dsp as suggested.
likely put the um18’s in sealed boxes with dayton sa1000 plate amp and dsp as suggested.
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Easier to deal with all this junk by just plugging your DSP into your laptop and being lazy I guess?? AI can do all the work now… why should we even figure anything out anymore with sawdust and create it as acoustical shapes/lengths inside?🙃🙂 Let’s grow ‘stupid’ together? 🥲. It’s kinda scary
Oh! Gotcha!
Sometimes people just want something that works.
Like I did with my 5.1 system. Bought a cheap decent one. When I had money, I bought a nice DIY kit and took my time to build the speaker.
Also, sometimes you have space or other constraint.
For now, I kinda want to build a subwoofer relatively rapidly, to be able to lend my 10in jamo to my friend and have a nice slick subwoofer.
But that would totally be my style to learn further down the road on how to build proper and different subwoofer. Some build on this forum are completely insane! Like the taped horn type with all the fold and all. 🥵
You could, but don't see the point based on the needs of your app, though if you ever move to a dedicated room with plenty of room and/or corner loading options.........
Yes, I've already confirmed sufficient power.
Correct.
It's slot loaded, so 4th order with the vent acting as a low pass filter, but no experience using them out in the open like in your app, so if wanting to explore this option, might be best to post your Qs on one of its dedicated threads.
BTW/FWIW, here's one of my stereo pair of circa 1970 20 Hz Fs, ~20 ft^3/567 L dual 15" Altec 515B prosound wide range TQWT 'subs' mass loaded/vented/tuned to ~14 Hz, so nowadays referred to as a ML-TQWT w/500 Hz/2nd XO to a 500 Hz expo horn, though capable to XO as high as 1200 Hz/2nd.
They were originally tuned to 32 Hz, the lowest recordings available back then, so would be a big waste of time/$$ at 80-120 Hz XO (having 25 lb AlNiCo motors, each driver is significantly? more expensive than any you've mentioned once inflation adjusted), hence my observations/recommendations/reservations re using prosound in your app, though back then there really weren't any other (non prosound) woofer options that went anywhere near this low without using higher Fs woofers either bass horn loaded or IB loaded multiples.
They were originally tuned to 32 Hz, the lowest recordings available back then, so would be a big waste of time/$$ at 80-120 Hz XO (having 25 lb AlNiCo motors, each driver is significantly? more expensive than any you've mentioned once inflation adjusted), hence my observations/recommendations/reservations re using prosound in your app, though back then there really weren't any other (non prosound) woofer options that went anywhere near this low without using higher Fs woofers either bass horn loaded or IB loaded multiples.
I just strated using rew in order to see if the subwoofer at the center of the room will have a nice response.
Started with subwoofer at the its usual location, and mic at the MLP (purple) and then switch the two, so subwoofer on the couch at the MLP and mic at the subwoofer location
got 2 very different reading.
I started a thread in the software forum to see what people think. But I think that i should keep the mic at the MLP and move the subwoofer around. I fear that if I put the subwoofer at the MLP, and the mic on the floor (rougly at the center of where the driver would be) the response wont be the same.
Started with subwoofer at the its usual location, and mic at the MLP (purple) and then switch the two, so subwoofer on the couch at the MLP and mic at the subwoofer location
got 2 very different reading.
I started a thread in the software forum to see what people think. But I think that i should keep the mic at the MLP and move the subwoofer around. I fear that if I put the subwoofer at the MLP, and the mic on the floor (rougly at the center of where the driver would be) the response wont be the same.
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Dunno, but searching 'slot loaded', 'BP4' should return many links covering the various loading types.
Will do! Will broaden my search.
Also, I was thinking this morning.
Would I be better to build a single 5cubic feet box, but one driver in it meanwhile I gather some more money for the second driver?
Or should I build 2x 2.5cubic feet box stuck together, (like the 5 cubic feet, but with a dividing wall in the middle) put one driver in on one side, and the other driver when I have the money in the other side.
Or it’s the same thing?
'Sounds' 😉 right to me. Rooms with any parallel surfaces will have eigenmodes/standing waves/harmonic resonances, so a cube has the most intense since they all sum as one set of harmonics with rectangular somewhat more random, etc..
If that’s normal, then it’s all good. But from what I’ve heard on YouTube, I didn’t expect this at all!
Here’s with 2 other reading, With subwoofer at mlp, and umik-1 where the middle of the 2 15’s would be.
Orange is « toward » the couch, and the blu-ish is closer to the wall on the left (when sitting on the couch looking at the tv)
Also, it’s crazy to see that I get roughly 100db when it was set at 75db using the generator.
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Expanded metal mesh painted black and set on battens perhaps>??
That is what I am considering for my current sub project.
That is what I am considering for my current sub project.
It depends on whether the chosen driver will work well enough once EQ'd in a box size that's the mean between the two optimums, i.e. 0.707x the optimal single driver box Vb, where 'optimal' is whatever size one can tolerate.
That said, the divider makes for some additional bracing, so seems the best overall choice. 😉
Either way, when you do get the 2nd one you'll need to run Audyssey and the amp's DSP again.