Need help designing a home theater subwoofer

So I got the driver home for a few days now.

Got in touch with Solen because it seems like the drivers are missing powder coating, or are scratch.

Solen are coming back from holiday next week. So I’ll have to wait.

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Also, I don’t know if I can rotate the top or anything, but the hole doesn’t seem to be align/Centered
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Also, I cut all the pannel 2 days ago.
None of my cut were good.
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So I had to make a pass on the table saw on all the baffle pannel (4) and (4) grill baffle (pannel that will be used for the grill as spacer before the slat).
Fortunately, the other pannel seems to still fit the size and the newly sawn panels.

Also, I knew 3/4 plywood wasn’t really 3/4, but never measure and update my cut list accordingly.

Think I saved it today tho. Nothing bondo and/or pl glue can’t fix. But time will tell.
 
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With the drivers, the hole not 100% matching is a very usual, minor fault.
The scratches at the basket may be from putting them into boxes. Nothing I would even think about. They are quite heavy and may get scratches from their own weight.
At least nothing has anything to do with sound quality. Remember these are very low priced in comparison to comparable drivers.
 
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With the drivers, the hole not 100% matching is a very usual, minor fault.
The scratches at the basket may be from putting them into boxes. Nothing I would even think about. They are quite heavy and may get scratches from their own weight.
At least nothing has anything to do with sound quality. Remember these are very low priced in comparison to comparable drivers.
Is there anything to do with the un-aligned holes?
 
Manufacturing tolerance is +/- 10% for drivers [ mostly] so that misalignment is nothing, cosmetic only and will in any case be hidden by the washer you need to use when screwing them down.
Washer? Why using a washer? If you want the head of your fastener inset in the flange of the driver you don’t use washer.


The head of cap screw I want to use (1/4-20) doesn’t even enter in the recessed hole.

10% is huge when it comes to tolerance of such a big company.

It’s like sayin on a 10cm (or 10in)lenght the hole can be 1cm (or 1 in) away. That’s huge.
 
That’s just the gasket and glue mess right? . The hole (s) is fine. I can mount @ 3x 3/4 ply thick baffle 1/4-20 cap screws thru a dayton umax18 and swap in a B&c 18 in the same box, same holes, etc.
Don’t know?! That’s what I’m asking.

If it’s only glue and gasket I can unglue it and rotate the gasket to align the holes, from gasket and flange, together.
 
If it’s only glue and gasket I can unglue it and rotate the gasket to align the holes, from gasket and flange, together.
If you look at the product image on Parts Express, you'll see the same kind of misalignment.

There's no way I'd even think about trying to unglue something like this to improve a purely cosmetic issue. Of course you can make it relevant to you, but you're just increasing your misery.

Like it or not, many drivers are still partially hand assembled, and it's common to see minor issues like this on surrounds/gaskets/frames. Soft parts are also difficult to trim precisely because they deform easily. This isn't a boutique item that's making money off cosmetic perfection, so they're also not going to spec everything like it is.

Washer? Why using a washer? If you want the head of your fastener inset in the flange of the driver you don’t use washer.
Perhaps the washer protects the surround/gasket/flange?
 
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Centering the cone is the most critical operation while manufacturing a driver. It can only be done with a part assembled cone. You can not repeat the process without taking the dust cap of, which will destroy the cone. Only missing the ideal position just a very little will make the cone tilt. This is no place where you, as a complete novice to speaker building, are able to "improve" anything. If you do not want the driver, return it, but don't start fixing things that aren't broken.
 
In the meanwhile, I cut all my pannel and made all the brace. Did 2 window brace because why not. And quarter rounded all of them.
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In order to do this, I upcycled an old ikea 15in wide cabinet. And used a 24x30 melamine sheet I had from a temporary counter we had when renovating the house.
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diyAudio Member
Joined 2007
Didn’t mean to unglue the cone.
Juste like the “gasket” spurns the flange which seem to cause the unalign problem.

It’s hard to tell it’s it’s a soft or hard part in the Center of the flange/surround. Don’t know how to call this part.
I have to say it again.
It isn't a "problem" it is merely a very minor cosmetic issue and will have no effect on the performance of the speaker, so long as you use washers under the bolt head.
Excellent repurposing of an old cabinet
Nice work on the window pane braces
I add small blocks of scrap timber/MDF/Ply where the brace meets the box sides, and at random alignment.
Some people thinks it helps with breaking up vibration on the panels
 
I have to say it again.
It isn't a "problem" it is merely a very minor cosmetic issue and will have no effect on the performance of the speaker, so long as you use washers under the bolt head.
Excellent repurposing of an old cabinet
Nice work on the window pane braces
I add small blocks of scrap timber/MDF/Ply where the brace meets the box sides, and at random alignment.
Some people thinks it helps with breaking up vibration on the panels
I know it’s not a problem for most of you.
I make my loudspeaker so I can make it “as mine” as possible. In that case, I want to have as flush screws head I can, just because I think it’s looks better. I don’t want to have “huge” screw head poking out the driver.

If there’s nothing I can do about it, then be it, but at least I would have tired. An email was sent to the shop that sold me the driver and they are proactive in getting something done about the problem that isn’t a problem.


As per your tips on the bloc you add, you want to make sure I understand it right.

You’d do something like this,
5FEF961A-9F95-4482-B7A9-D25846A9387D.jpeg

even tho I have brace that will look like this:
456DE3CD-A372-4208-8B6A-D04087B36A7A.png


Or is it the same thing, but instead of placing them all in the middle you would place them randomly?

Note that the middle pannel that divide the box into 2, will be at 30%. I now have 2 window pane brace as I wrote a bit earlier that will be install towards stage 1/4 of the box, on each side. So let’s say, #3 brace and #7 (starting from the left)


Regarding holding panel qu’Holmes the glue dries. I don’t have clamp big enough.
So I was thinking of using either of those:
1- screws, perpendicular to the pannel.
2- pocket screws,
3- brad nails,
Or, seen this today:
4- screwing until glue dries, then removing them and filling the holes.

What is best?

Also, just heard about 2 parts wood filler. Never heard of that. Have you guys have any experience with this type of wood filler?
 
I know it’s not a problem for most of you.
I make my loudspeaker so I can make it “as mine” as possible. In that case, I want to have as flush screws head I can, just because I think it’s looks better. I don’t want to have “huge” screw head poking out the driver.

If there’s nothing I can do about it, then be it, but at least I would have tired. An email was sent to the shop that sold me the driver and they are proactive in getting something done about the problem that isn’t a problem.


As per your tips on the bloc you add, you want to make sure I understand it right.

You’d do something like this,
View attachment 1126853
even tho I have brace that will look like this:
View attachment 1126854

Or is it the same thing, but instead of placing them all in the middle you would place them randomly?

Note that the middle pannel that divide the box into 2, will be at 30%. I now have 2 window pane brace as I wrote a bit earlier that will be install towards stage 1/4 of the box, on each side. So let’s say, #3 brace and #7 (starting from the left)


Regarding holding panel qu’Holmes the glue dries. I don’t have clamp big enough.
So I was thinking of using either of those:
1- screws, perpendicular to the pannel.
2- pocket screws,
3- brad nails,
Or, seen this today:
4- screwing until glue dries, then removing them and filling the holes.

What is best?

Also, just heard about 2 parts wood filler. Never heard of that. Have you guys have any experience with this type of wood filler?
I think that with 4 braces evenly spaced you will do ok, what you picture is a waste of material and just add more weight, is like when you have laundry for 1 measure cup and you put 3 measures, you just waste 2 measures cause wathever you add more than 1 measure will not make your clothes cleaner, just wasting resources.
My 2 cents.
 
I think that with 4 braces evenly spaced you will do ok, what you picture is a waste of material and just add more weight, is like when you have laundry for 1 measure cup and you put 3 measures, you just waste 2 measures cause wathever you add more than 1 measure will not make your clothes cleaner, just wasting resources.
My 2 cents.
It’s hard with bracing.

Some people says 4 will be enough, some people says what I did is a good starting point 😂😅
 
diyAudio Member
Joined 2007
I use in addition to the bracing you show, but much smaller than the detail in your drawing, say 42 * 70mm; I use a lot of 42*19mm planed timber but I don't use as much window pane when I do use it.
If those longitudinal bracing bits are centred as per your drawing them all the sub-vibrations add up, as per Planet 10 the ideal is for those to be staggered, say for instance 1/4; 1/3; 1/2 or at random by adding or subtracting some nominal amount like 11mm to each spacing.
GM mentioned in my build that the usual amount / maximum amount of bracing is 10% of the internal volume, I never bothered to add it up or guess it tho but I am sure it was a less
 
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It’s hard with bracing.

Some people says 4 will be enough, some people says what I did is a good starting point 😂😅

Just build a cylindrical cabinet with longitudinal braces... mount that in a "normal" box. The box won't be subjected to any acoustic pressure so it can be light and the cylinder should be the lightest geometry per internal volume.

Sure, too late by now.... but that's why the El Pipe-O design exists.
 
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