Usually I visit this site.
Translate from French to English usually here in Canada not a problem.
If I remember well they have one more thread for Kaneda, right now I did not found that.
Last time I read it it had over 100 pages.
https://forums.melaudia.net/showthread.php?tid=6548
https://forums.melaudia.net/showthread.php?tid=3976&pid=214908&highlight=Kaneda#pid214908
The one from Narsis Kaneda was posted from Japan in English
Translate from French to English usually here in Canada not a problem.
If I remember well they have one more thread for Kaneda, right now I did not found that.
Last time I read it it had over 100 pages.
https://forums.melaudia.net/showthread.php?tid=6548
https://forums.melaudia.net/showthread.php?tid=3976&pid=214908&highlight=Kaneda#pid214908
The one from Narsis Kaneda was posted from Japan in English
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Typically, Kaneda uses Vero boards in all his own builds and in his articles.
You don't really need to make PCBs.
Only P2P, in true DIY tradition.
https://ph7dc.but.jp/dc_amp/279-SCT3060-959-606type-2.html
🙂
Patrick
You don't really need to make PCBs.
Only P2P, in true DIY tradition.
https://ph7dc.but.jp/dc_amp/279-SCT3060-959-606type-2.html
🙂
Patrick
Patrick you right, but that is an art by itself!😎
I am not familiar that type of build (using Vero boards) and for that reason I would rather use a real PC board.
Tired to look for smoke when I turn it first time on (because of errors possibility). Ha, ha.🙄
Here is this typical Kaneda circuit, 14W power with low distortion (not bad), I would surely test it if there is a layout.
Unfortunately this to complex to me to draw it with the computers Paint program.
Also it does take too much time to draw it, can take days to draw it from zero.
Most of the parts I have for this amp or a close replacement, only the SIC Fet needed but those are available online order.
I am not familiar that type of build (using Vero boards) and for that reason I would rather use a real PC board.
Tired to look for smoke when I turn it first time on (because of errors possibility). Ha, ha.🙄
Here is this typical Kaneda circuit, 14W power with low distortion (not bad), I would surely test it if there is a layout.
Unfortunately this to complex to me to draw it with the computers Paint program.
Also it does take too much time to draw it, can take days to draw it from zero.
Most of the parts I have for this amp or a close replacement, only the SIC Fet needed but those are available online order.
Attachments
https://plus.harenet.ne.jp/~kadoki/audio/analog/power/sicmosrohmpowr/267sicbfetpwr.html
You can find lots of these circuits.
Can't build them all.
IMHO, just pick the latest one.
Patrick
You can find lots of these circuits.
Can't build them all.
IMHO, just pick the latest one.
Patrick
Yes you right about that!🙂
The one I just posted the Kaneda 271, it is from 2020, gives 50W power (capable to drive most speakers) and that is good base to start a group build.
One day maybe someone will draw a layout for a PCB. 😊
To me interesting no-one interested to build the simple Narsis Kaneda and how good it sounds.
Still available all components how I built it. It drives my 87db Visatons well.
The one I just posted the Kaneda 271, it is from 2020, gives 50W power (capable to drive most speakers) and that is good base to start a group build.
One day maybe someone will draw a layout for a PCB. 😊
To me interesting no-one interested to build the simple Narsis Kaneda and how good it sounds.
Still available all components how I built it. It drives my 87db Visatons well.
Most important is that you have fun. 🙂
Patrick
Patrick
Today evening I replaced the M Fidelity pot with a 10K Blue Alps type. Before I had an old 100K type.
One thing I realized with this amp, with a good record sounds good with a bad or weaker records it sound boring and dull / lifeless.
Sometimes I am happy for her other times I want to turn it of to use something better.
I will see, needs more time maybe some tweak........ Not bad but I have better that makes me very inpatient..
One thing I realized with this amp, with a good record sounds good with a bad or weaker records it sound boring and dull / lifeless.
Sometimes I am happy for her other times I want to turn it of to use something better.
I will see, needs more time maybe some tweak........ Not bad but I have better that makes me very inpatient..
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I removed the Blue Alps (10K type) from the amplifier.
I just did not like it, made the amplifier act like a tiny small amp without dynamic.
I replaced with the small green cheap ($1) potentiometer (10K type also) and in this set up outperforms the blue Alps!
I turn on the Blue Alps almost all the way and still I missed more power.
With this little pot at 11 o clock I am already at good listening level.
I think all those blue Alps on Ebay, Ali Express made in China even do marked as a Japanese.
This one I purchased 10-15 years a go. I do not like it.
Looks like some of those old potentiometers I removed scrap amplifiers those are better than the Blue Alps.
One like that was in the amp at first but 100K type and sometimes scratchy.
I have a (pricey) green TKD 50K type, I hope that is not a junk either.
I just did not like it, made the amplifier act like a tiny small amp without dynamic.
I replaced with the small green cheap ($1) potentiometer (10K type also) and in this set up outperforms the blue Alps!
I turn on the Blue Alps almost all the way and still I missed more power.
With this little pot at 11 o clock I am already at good listening level.
I think all those blue Alps on Ebay, Ali Express made in China even do marked as a Japanese.
This one I purchased 10-15 years a go. I do not like it.
Looks like some of those old potentiometers I removed scrap amplifiers those are better than the Blue Alps.
One like that was in the amp at first but 100K type and sometimes scratchy.
I have a (pricey) green TKD 50K type, I hope that is not a junk either.
Attachments
Member
Joined 2006
Ever wondered why Kaneda amps still using vintage metal can transistors, and what are those strange looking resistors on the vero boards? 😀
The thin type is Susumu metal film, the ones with metal line coiling around are called Fukushima Futaba skeleton resistor (ie, with outer resin removed).
Here are the reasons why they were chosen by Kaneda san: 😄
https://www7b-biglobe-ne-jp.transla...=ja&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=zh-TW&_x_tr_pto=wapp
Attachments
Kaneda and Hiraga are both from an "earlier" generation, just like my most respected Mr. curl.
It is totally understandable that they like using devices that they are familiar with, and probably have plenty of stock.
Vero boards are useful when you only make one or two.
And like the tube amp guys, some like making amps by P2P in free air.
The resistors on the left I also use (Nikkohm RP44) :
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...crescendo-ii-ak4495-dv20a.285630/post-5487214
The skeleton is similar to Vishay naked S102's.
But our recent experiments with the Le Monstre showed that there is next to no impact on exotic passives, unless you deliberately use ones that are known to distort, like carbon resistors.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/hiraga-le-monstre-2024.413301/page-10#post-7765648
Cheers,
Patrick
.
It is totally understandable that they like using devices that they are familiar with, and probably have plenty of stock.
Vero boards are useful when you only make one or two.
And like the tube amp guys, some like making amps by P2P in free air.
The resistors on the left I also use (Nikkohm RP44) :
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...crescendo-ii-ak4495-dv20a.285630/post-5487214
The skeleton is similar to Vishay naked S102's.
But our recent experiments with the Le Monstre showed that there is next to no impact on exotic passives, unless you deliberately use ones that are known to distort, like carbon resistors.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/hiraga-le-monstre-2024.413301/page-10#post-7765648
Cheers,
Patrick
.
Attachments
It is really frustrating.
Some potentiometer sound dark, lifeless, missing the dynamic.
Others sound bright & too much Ssssssssing, too much sibilance even most of my Diana Krall CD's.
Especially female vocals.
I using an AudioAlchemy CD player, Kimber 8TC cable and DIY Visaton speakers.
The speakers and the cables I have about 22 years or so, I know them well.
I tried even SMD resistor based attenuator and that even has darker sound.
After a couple track I removed it. $20 US plus shipping each of those.
The potentiometer I used to use for testing one channel is open up (died). 😢
I have 3 different type Blue Alps but some of those has a dark plastic sound either.
I will try to replace the interconnect cable (cheap Monster) with a Siltech. Lets see if it get better. I don't think the cable.
All day frustrated me
I could build or produce something rather than testing & soldering potentiometers. 🙂
Some potentiometer sound dark, lifeless, missing the dynamic.
Others sound bright & too much Ssssssssing, too much sibilance even most of my Diana Krall CD's.
Especially female vocals.
I using an AudioAlchemy CD player, Kimber 8TC cable and DIY Visaton speakers.
The speakers and the cables I have about 22 years or so, I know them well.
I tried even SMD resistor based attenuator and that even has darker sound.
After a couple track I removed it. $20 US plus shipping each of those.
The potentiometer I used to use for testing one channel is open up (died). 😢
I have 3 different type Blue Alps but some of those has a dark plastic sound either.
I will try to replace the interconnect cable (cheap Monster) with a Siltech. Lets see if it get better. I don't think the cable.
All day frustrated me
I could build or produce something rather than testing & soldering potentiometers. 🙂
This is what we use :
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...reamp-with-output-buffers.384796/post-7064891
https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/comp...udio-attenuator-24-steps-100k-log-p-9884.html
Costs a bit more than 20USD. 🙂
And we chose our own resistors.
Patrick
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...reamp-with-output-buffers.384796/post-7064891
https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/comp...udio-attenuator-24-steps-100k-log-p-9884.html
Costs a bit more than 20USD. 🙂
And we chose our own resistors.
Patrick
This was less costly, but very difficult to DIY.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...a-zgf-headphone-amplifier.225577/post-4347276
Patrick
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...a-zgf-headphone-amplifier.225577/post-4347276
Patrick
One or two of those it may cost more than one of my DIY amplifier. 😛
You know Patrick I was sure the Blue Alps are a dissent quality. I bought a few of them😢 some stepped attenuators. They are crap! (sorry but they are)
Just realized the last two days or so they are much worst than the old Alps or the old Korean / Japanese or East Germany made RFT potentiometers.
Right now I need one or two something acceptable quality to test my amplifiers (to set them up) and after that the one will deserve it will be upgraded with the best available capacitors, pots, wires, etc.
Frustrating when I think I am very close, the work is done to be a keeper amplifier and I replace a potentiometer and (what a heck) I have to start all over again.
At least now I know some of the popular potentiometers how bad they are!
You know Patrick I was sure the Blue Alps are a dissent quality. I bought a few of them😢 some stepped attenuators. They are crap! (sorry but they are)
Just realized the last two days or so they are much worst than the old Alps or the old Korean / Japanese or East Germany made RFT potentiometers.
Right now I need one or two something acceptable quality to test my amplifiers (to set them up) and after that the one will deserve it will be upgraded with the best available capacitors, pots, wires, etc.
Frustrating when I think I am very close, the work is done to be a keeper amplifier and I replace a potentiometer and (what a heck) I have to start all over again.
At least now I know some of the popular potentiometers how bad they are!
There are no genuine Blue ALPS which are stepped.
Those are Chinese inventions.
The only transparent attenuator is IMHO switched resistors.
Whether rotary switch or relay.
And of course both resistor and switch qualities are important.
There is no "cheap" solution.
An amplifier is not just the amp PCB.
It is also power supplies, heatsinks, .....
But your DIY, your choice.
I would at least want one reference to compare with.
Patrick
Those are Chinese inventions.
The only transparent attenuator is IMHO switched resistors.
Whether rotary switch or relay.
And of course both resistor and switch qualities are important.
There is no "cheap" solution.
An amplifier is not just the amp PCB.
It is also power supplies, heatsinks, .....
But your DIY, your choice.
I would at least want one reference to compare with.
Patrick
Today all day I listen to music, using an old potentiometer from an old dismantled amplifier.
It is acceptable, without the dull Blue Aleph sound, or from the Chinese SMD resistor type stepped attenuator
or the harsh sibilance, sssssssss sounds from the small green potentiometer.
I enjoyed to listen.
Soon I will build a decent preamp with a good quality potentiometer and use that to test and drive all my DIY amplifiers.
Until now I thought Blue A is a decent quality potentiometer, I was wrong.
I found out the hard way only a couple days a go.
I have an older good quality Japanese (10 Kg+) Kenwood CD player with a Blue Alps (!) in it for the variable output.
Before I used to use that for DIY purpose, testing but right now she needs some attention.
It may need to be recapped, sometime does not want to read some CD, skips, etc.
It is acceptable, without the dull Blue Aleph sound, or from the Chinese SMD resistor type stepped attenuator
or the harsh sibilance, sssssssss sounds from the small green potentiometer.
I enjoyed to listen.
Soon I will build a decent preamp with a good quality potentiometer and use that to test and drive all my DIY amplifiers.
Until now I thought Blue A is a decent quality potentiometer, I was wrong.
I found out the hard way only a couple days a go.
I have an older good quality Japanese (10 Kg+) Kenwood CD player with a Blue Alps (!) in it for the variable output.
Before I used to use that for DIY purpose, testing but right now she needs some attention.
It may need to be recapped, sometime does not want to read some CD, skips, etc.
I didn't believe that an original(?) Alps Blu, with the same impedance as others, would make a difference! That it would introduce sibilance! I know that sibilance can be the symptom of a wrong crossover on the tweeter
CSandrelli Most of my Blue Alps and other potentiometers / attenuators are purchased on Ebay and AliExpress.
I think I found today the reason why I have those nasty sibilance.The (cheap) Monster interconnect cable to bright and when it meet something has a brighter sound like the green potentiometer" start overemphasizing the ssssssssss sounds.
Not the speakers fault, I use that speakers over 22 years.
Of course they are not perfect but I can recognize her sound even if you wake me up from my dream.
I also have a pair standing Mirage speaker and on that sounded similar.
That has metal "titanium" dome tweeters for that reason I do not like to use for testing.
Attachments
While scanning some of my downloaded KiCAD files (for reference), I found this one zipped folder, it contains 3 schematics in a whole KiCAD job files. The files I believe was shared by one member, he provided the link for downloads. It does contain one completed pcb lay out with gerbers included and one incomplete lay-out. The zipped files attached contains them all, (opens in KiCAD program).
The BJT version looks interesting to me, are these schematics a true Kaneda designs?
The BJT version looks interesting to me, are these schematics a true Kaneda designs?
