Not in my recollection. There were DIY replica boards offered from Germany more than 10 years ago but as you can see, the Ebay clones now have the field covered with very low cost kits. Occasionally, I've seen blank PCBs offered too.
If you want to make your own boards, have a look at the development of Jeff Young's clone design, following from #20 here: NAP250 clone
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I made a pcb design that you are free to use, usually I upload the files in my project thread but if they aren’t found there you can PM me if interested
I'm doing a short run of NAP250 boards (with regulators; without SOA).
This is a true nostalgia project with considerable research done into the original circuit and device selection. I'm even deleting the silkscreen and solder-mask on the boards. (It will be a two layer board with plated-through holes, so not entirely old-school).
I have designs for both the original regulators (again, without SOA), and an inverted one which references the VAS to ground, greatly increasing its PSRR at high frequency.
See more here:
NAP250 clone
Cheers,
Jeff.
This is a true nostalgia project with considerable research done into the original circuit and device selection. I'm even deleting the silkscreen and solder-mask on the boards. (It will be a two layer board with plated-through holes, so not entirely old-school).
I have designs for both the original regulators (again, without SOA), and an inverted one which references the VAS to ground, greatly increasing its PSRR at high frequency.
See more here:
NAP250 clone
Cheers,
Jeff.
Attachments
Congratulations, great work.
.
If you make a few more, I book for the purchase of a pair of PCBs.
.
If you make a few more, I book for the purchase of a pair of PCBs.
I went ahead and posted a GB thread: https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gro...-amp-boards-regulator-boards.html#post5965534
(@ultima legione, if you get a chance please indicate in the GB thread which regulators you're interested in)
Cheers,
Jeff.
(@ultima legione, if you get a chance please indicate in the GB thread which regulators you're interested in)
Cheers,
Jeff.
...a small amp...NAP140 clone..
Hi
i want to start in the future a small amp project- clone would be ideal:
is this a board for small money ? its a mono board:
Naim NAP140 40w*2 output rear stage power amplifier board-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on AliExpress
or is it better to start with the MX50SE? APEX 14
chris
Hi
i want to start in the future a small amp project- clone would be ideal:
is this a board for small money ? its a mono board:
Naim NAP140 40w*2 output rear stage power amplifier board-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on AliExpress
or is it better to start with the MX50SE? APEX 14
chris
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Hi Chris,
Is this for a first project? I don't think the NAP circuits are very beginner-friendly. It's a design that's been tweaked to within an inch of its life.
Also, most aliexpress amps are built with counterfeit parts: some not as good as the real ones and others not fit for purpose at all.
Out of the others you listed, I think the MX50SE would be most suitable for a beginner if you can just get the PCB and buy the parts yourself.
But I'd recommend the ACA over any of them. (See the DIYAudio Store.) It's more expensive, but it's easier to understand, comes with real parts, and will sound better.
Cheers,
Jeff.
Is this for a first project? I don't think the NAP circuits are very beginner-friendly. It's a design that's been tweaked to within an inch of its life.
Also, most aliexpress amps are built with counterfeit parts: some not as good as the real ones and others not fit for purpose at all.
Out of the others you listed, I think the MX50SE would be most suitable for a beginner if you can just get the PCB and buy the parts yourself.
But I'd recommend the ACA over any of them. (See the DIYAudio Store.) It's more expensive, but it's easier to understand, comes with real parts, and will sound better.
Cheers,
Jeff.
I agree with Jeff that the NAP-140 would be a difficult choice if it is your first project. It was my first audio project, and it was very challenging. It didn't help that the ebay boards had bad parts, counterfeit parts, were physically damaged and had very thin tracks. I burnt out 2 boards before I got on top of it, but it was a frustrating experience.
The ACA would definitely be a good start if you have the $$. It is well documented, well designed and from all accounts, sounds great. The MX50SE sounds good and as Jeff says, would be a better option.
The AX-6 (Retro 50W) would be a better choice than the AX-14. The AX-14 requires some work to get it up and running nicely. 100W is a big step up from 40W and for living room power, 40/50W is plenty.
What are your goals and experience levels?
The ACA would definitely be a good start if you have the $$. It is well documented, well designed and from all accounts, sounds great. The MX50SE sounds good and as Jeff says, would be a better option.
The AX-6 (Retro 50W) would be a better choice than the AX-14. The AX-14 requires some work to get it up and running nicely. 100W is a big step up from 40W and for living room power, 40/50W is plenty.
What are your goals and experience levels?
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Thank you Jeff
Thank you AVtech23
I started since 2 years here with Diy. Class D TPA3250 (fx502spro) and TPA3255 (what is wrong...) was my beginning. then i modded the CM6631A+9023 DAC.
now i am actually busy with the LM1875 (ebay kit and with FF i started the composite). so i am not really in rush😉 ( i am an EE and still have no idea of audio😛😉)
my plan will be that i go deeper, deeper in some "details" of an amplifier. its partly an exercise with my son (11)- just soldering and get a very small overview in electronics - 😉
yes the ACA was my plan but you both confirm as competent amplifier builder that the MX50SE is fine for start.
thx for that
chris
Thank you AVtech23
I started since 2 years here with Diy. Class D TPA3250 (fx502spro) and TPA3255 (what is wrong...) was my beginning. then i modded the CM6631A+9023 DAC.
now i am actually busy with the LM1875 (ebay kit and with FF i started the composite). so i am not really in rush😉 ( i am an EE and still have no idea of audio😛😉)
my plan will be that i go deeper, deeper in some "details" of an amplifier. its partly an exercise with my son (11)- just soldering and get a very small overview in electronics - 😉
yes the ACA was my plan but you both confirm as competent amplifier builder that the MX50SE is fine for start.
thx for that
chris
Hi ultima legione, how to set the 2k trimpot before the soldering it? At 2k or at zero onms. Thanks
I was one of the first people to build one of these clones at the beginning of this thread about 11 years ago. I would just like to ask what amp kit or board would run on the same PSU setup, at least the same transformer AC 24-0-24
I was about the first or second person to build one of these clones 11 years ago at the start of this thread.
I just wanted to ask which modern amp board would be a worthwhile upgrade to my NC220 clones. I would love to refuse the power supply which is a AC 24-0-24 setup.
I need something reasonably powerful since my current B&W 607 are only about 85db sensitivity.
I would like something with more detail and subtlety in its presentation.
Any advice very gratefully received
I just wanted to ask which modern amp board would be a worthwhile upgrade to my NC220 clones. I would love to refuse the power supply which is a AC 24-0-24 setup.
I need something reasonably powerful since my current B&W 607 are only about 85db sensitivity.
I would like something with more detail and subtlety in its presentation.
Any advice very gratefully received
The low transformer voltage of NAP140 (24+24VAC) is what restricts the power available from a given amplifier design and load impedance. All Naim NAP series amplifiers and similar designs like Avondale's, share a common electrical design so to get more power, you really need a more appropriate transformer - up to the power limits of the components and thermal design, which usually meant 28+28VAC secondary windings for a resulting +/- 40VDC power supply. Only NAP250 and NAP135 used regulated supplies to safely squeeze a maximum 125W/4R from that supply.
However, the difference between 70, 80 or even 125W/4R isn't all that much in acoustic terms. Perhaps the impression of more bass from the larger models is what you are looking for. On the other hand, I've seen a few NAP140 clone builds that had the barest of minimum transformer. Some even resorted to cheap E-I laminated types to find a substitute with secondaries in the range of 24-28V on their local mains supply. In my experience, this doesn't work out so it could mean having one or more transformers custom wound if you want a true clone. Depending on where you live, that can be frighteningly expensive.
An easy way to get more audio power from a given supply voltage is to bridge 2 amplifiers. That's fine if you have 8R or higher impedance speakers but not less, even if some of us routinely do it. They will likely only be using their system at a comfortable domestic level of a few watts, thus safely, though it rather defeats the purpose of bridging and increases risk. On the other hand, some people just feel more confident about their system when the knob is below 10 o'clock yet it still seems loud enough, quite revealing, detailed etc 😉
FWIW, The Zero Zone NAP200 clone is a great build, If the correct components are supplied.
However, the difference between 70, 80 or even 125W/4R isn't all that much in acoustic terms. Perhaps the impression of more bass from the larger models is what you are looking for. On the other hand, I've seen a few NAP140 clone builds that had the barest of minimum transformer. Some even resorted to cheap E-I laminated types to find a substitute with secondaries in the range of 24-28V on their local mains supply. In my experience, this doesn't work out so it could mean having one or more transformers custom wound if you want a true clone. Depending on where you live, that can be frighteningly expensive.
An easy way to get more audio power from a given supply voltage is to bridge 2 amplifiers. That's fine if you have 8R or higher impedance speakers but not less, even if some of us routinely do it. They will likely only be using their system at a comfortable domestic level of a few watts, thus safely, though it rather defeats the purpose of bridging and increases risk. On the other hand, some people just feel more confident about their system when the knob is below 10 o'clock yet it still seems loud enough, quite revealing, detailed etc 😉
FWIW, The Zero Zone NAP200 clone is a great build, If the correct components are supplied.
"More detail and subtlety" says larger class A envelope to me. But you're still going to need some class AB headroom for those B&Ws, so I'd be looking for a push-pull class A design.
FirstWatt F5 is popular, but not noted for its subtlety. F6 might fit the bill, or maybe the Hiraga 30W? Hawk A18?
But any of these will need a bigger PSU....
FirstWatt F5 is popular, but not noted for its subtlety. F6 might fit the bill, or maybe the Hiraga 30W? Hawk A18?
But any of these will need a bigger PSU....
Ok so truth be told I probably don't need more power. I just want to upgrade audio quality and since the speakers aren't very sensitive it's would be a bonus. Really I am trying to work out if I built another of these with higher spec components it would be worth it or something like the mx50 kits. I also have a my reference C dual mono. Which sometimes sounds amazing and other times s ems to lack control. One of those asx125 ice power modules is also an option.
It's annoying cos when I built the naim clone I totally over specced the PSU. The transformer is 800VA.
These days they are so expensive
These days they are so expensive
The transformer is fine then. Those class A topologies will need larger capacitor banks, but those are easy enough to build.
I don't think you're going to get much of an audio quality upgrade from the MX50 or ASX125. The MX50 has the current mirror in the input differential and a slightly more sophisticated current source, but aside from that is similar enough to the Naim topology. My personal view is that class D is for subwoofers or non-audiophile listening, so best not to ask for my opinion of the ASX125. 😎
Doing a premium parts build can be fun, and you'll get some improvement solely from expectation bias, but changing topologies will make a bigger difference than changing active parts (transistors), and a much bigger difference than changing passive parts (capacitors, resistors, connectors, etc.).
I don't think you're going to get much of an audio quality upgrade from the MX50 or ASX125. The MX50 has the current mirror in the input differential and a slightly more sophisticated current source, but aside from that is similar enough to the Naim topology. My personal view is that class D is for subwoofers or non-audiophile listening, so best not to ask for my opinion of the ASX125. 😎
Doing a premium parts build can be fun, and you'll get some improvement solely from expectation bias, but changing topologies will make a bigger difference than changing active parts (transistors), and a much bigger difference than changing passive parts (capacitors, resistors, connectors, etc.).