NAP-140 Clone Amp Kit on eBay

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#3,381
Ahh

Ruwe said:
102 most likely means 10 with added two zeros, i.e 1000 ohms. That's the common way to mark the values on electronic components packages. It's not common to use it on schematics though, but for sure it's not 100 ohms in that location.
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I did also suspect something to be wrong, but was not sure.
I go for 1kOhm.

Think I will go for Piher PTC10LH01-102A2020 (see at mouser)

Thanks for the quick reply, and enjoy your weekend 🙂
 
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#3,382
Check the trimpot drawing (datasheet) you refer to. It is for a horizontal adjusting type and has different pin spacings to the PCB. For Piher brand, in that syle, you would need either V10,V11 or V13 style rather than H01.
 
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#3,383
I cracked one to see if it is original. Yes, it is. This is how it should look inside. I bought a small stock from bankrupted repair shop.
 

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#3,387
In fact Naim + Focal make sense. Contemporary Naim sound too dark. That's the reason many users risk malfunction of Naim amp and use them with very bright sounding high capacity/low inductance pleated loudspeaker cables like Kimber, contrary to Naim recommendations. Focal is on the bright side of neutral so it is possible that their loudspeakers can compensate amp's dull tone.
 
#3,388
ivanlukic said:
Suitable cheap and simple heatsink for Naim clone can be made from what we here in Serbia call aluminium "flah" (from the German word "flach" meaning "flat"). I usually buy 2 meters long piece 80mm wide and 8mm thick and then cut it to suitable lengths. Good side of this mounting method is that nut and bolt can be used instead of threading the heatsink. 250mm piece is about half a kilo in weight. It is absolutely enough for even loud home listening.

Different mounting methods can be seen at the attached photo.
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Where you buy aluminium?
Is it a physical shop or a internet one?
 
#3,393
A real NAP140 is actually an updated/uprated NAP110. Judging by the pics of the internals and comments from a repair earlier in this thread, the significant differences are the transformer size and semis, some of which were simply replaced by types consistent with other contemporary models.

I couldn't resist posting a link to some high quality pics of the NAP110/NAC42 combination here. You may need to sign up to view images at the site.
 
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#3,395
Which NAP kit/pcb

Hi,
after reading some page of this 3d, I decided to build a NAP 140 clone.
This 3d is enormous, over 300 pages and it's difficult for me find informations than I need.
I ask you council to start my work:
- which is nou the best kit to buy?
- shall I buy a soldering kit or a bare pcb and buy parts on digikey/mouser?
Thank you and sorry for my bad and poor english...
 
#3,396
For a best possible clone, it is better to buy your own premium parts but.....first you would need to know how to choose them. That takes forever and posting for help with every choice gets tedious for you and for anyone trying to help.

If you have not already begun to solder and assemble electronic projects, I would buy an assembled PCB first, get advice just to choose the transformer and components for the power supply, case and connectors etc. Then assemble it all in a suitable case. That is surely difficult enough to begin with. You can upgrade low cost components as you see fit, when you have the basics and some confidence from successfully building the project.

Looking at finished boards only - or at least kits that are complete with components, will narrow the choices a lot. Even so, the case and power supply are much more expensive than the components which are actually the easy part, once you become confident with colour codes, markings, using tools and good soldering techniques.
 
#3,397
Thank you.
I have built an Aleph 30 clone and its aluminium case. It seems to work well. Now I'm building a preamplifier Zen Balanced Linestage. I'm quite able to solder parts, no problems at all.
But I understand nothing about circuits. I just copy and, in case of doubt, I ask to some expert one!!!
I have read that ready made kits have some fake Sanken transistor, and some parts doesn't work, does it is true?
 
#3,398
Great 🙂. You may also know that large MT200 size Sanken transistors are obsolete but Zerozone kits come with recycled original type power transistors. They appear to be genuine but no one can guarantee what you get unless you buy from authorised distributors. I do find genuine new Sanken parts in other kits too but there are still problems because they are not matched - maybe the grades aren't even the same. Testing and sorting power transistors is expensive and sometimes it isn't possible to get matches without having large stocks of parts to choose from.

Apart from being narrower and only having a single mounting bolt, there is no reason that you could not use Sanken's T03P size versions in most NAP models. These are the types Naim use now and they will be the real thing from agents like Digi-Key.
 
#3,400
ivanlukic said:
In fact Naim + Focal make sense. Contemporary Naim sound too dark. That's the reason many users risk malfunction of Naim amp and use them with very bright sounding high capacity/low inductance pleated loudspeaker cables like Kimber, contrary to Naim recommendations. Focal is on the bright side of neutral so it is possible that their loudspeakers can compensate amp's dull tone.
Click to expand...
I notice the most expensive Focals are extremely expensive. I wonder if this explains the Statement? A person with more money than sense who wants to spend £100k on a pair of speakers probably thinks a £10k amplifier is a bad investment! 😀

People are so dumb sometimes. The Human Race is less like a race than the motions of a crowd of shoppers in Lidl on a Saturday.
 
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