NAD 3030 complete rebuild

Found the file - it was my ineptitude rather than any problem with Kicad (dropped it in a wrong folder :blush:).

I'm a retired Chemist, and although I've successfully built up a couple of SMD boards, it's not on my list of 'enjoyable' activities... the eyes are not really up to it anymore !
I've not tried routeing an SMD board yet though - maybe I'll have a go at this one, it's an easy size to start with.
 
I've just pulled my own NAD 3030, and would add a couple of comments re. the phono PCB's / circuit:

# The phono board layout in the manual has no position for the L401 inductor that's shown in the manual schematic. I can't actually see L401 (or L402) anywhere, from the phono input RCAs through to (or on) the phono pcb. Nor are they mounted under either the main, or phono, pcbs - so I don't think they exist in reality. My 3030 is from early-ish 1980, and is factory orignal as far as I can tell, albeit with faults (it's in the to do pile...).
# There is a small ceramic cap added under each phono pcb- it's hard to see, but seems to link Q401(C) and Q403(B), and is marked '102M' (1000pf, 20%). Q402 & Q404 have the same additional cap obviously.
# There is also a small Mylar cap added below each phono pcb, on the main pcb where the phono boards slot in. It's marked '102J' (1000pf, 5%), apparently as bypass to the output caps C421 (C422 resp.).
# In the RIAA circuit, C405 (C406) are Polystyrene caps, while C407 & C409 (and C408 & C410) appear to have been substituted by single Mylar caps - which I assume to be 3nf (it's impossible to see without dismantling the amp).
# Finally, C425 (& C426) are not on the phono pcbs, but are mounted directly to the phono input RCAs at the back of the amp.

To give you a better idea of what they look like (the 2 phono pcbs are marked 3310024 & 3310539). Width of the replacements will need to be max 50mm, but there's plenty of height available (if needed).

NAD 3030 Phono PCBs.jpg
 
# Finally, C425 (& C426) are not on the phono pcbs, but are mounted directly to the phono input RCAs at the back of the amp.
Yes these are placed at the input from GND to Chassis to screen for radio frequencies

The extra cap at Q401/Q403 is probably there to increase stability / reduce or eliminate oscillation. It's local feedback.

If making these boards, I think you should for sure add two bulk capacitors to the rails, say 100 uF or so with 100nF in parallel. The rails are regulated, but there is not real local decoupling or bulk at the board

Goldie99, you seem to know quite a lot about electronics for a chemist 😉 :up:
 
There are still a number of problems with the schematic, although a lot of it's looking much better.

# The error you're seeing is because you still haven't added a connector/terminal (J5 I presume) to the 'GND'; you only need one connection, to one of the GND's, and all are connected - but you must have one.
# You also still need to separate the signal and power grounds - they may be connected somewhere else in the amp, but they are separate on the phono pcb, and need to be routed & connected separately. Hint...J6
# You're still missing a cap from R411/R413 to GND.
# If you're going with SMD, no problem, but if you go discrete, then I'd remove the input inductor; the original pcb doesn't have it, and it'd be a very tight fit on the pcb...
# There are circuit problems around the C405 / C407 / C409 junctions, and possibly(?) the Q405(C) / C411 / R419 junction.
# Careful with the component value entries, e.g., R411 = '10m' for me is 10 milliohms, which would be virtually a dead short of the +ve rail to GND. The correct value for R411 is 10 Megaohms, which I'd enter as 10M. I'm not sure how Kicad interprets 'm' versus 'M' ? so it may not be an issue, but I know it treats 'M' as Mega.

Several are relatively minor points, but the more consistenty you can get at the schematic stage, the better - it's MUCH easier to correct before you've routed the board... and just the process of finding the problems / correcting everything is where you learn most about the software.

I've not worked on the pcb with SMD yet, so just one recommendation - go for 1206 part size - I wouldn't want to be hand-soldering anything smaller without the relevant tools.
 
There are still a number of problems with the schematic, although a lot of it's looking much better.

# The error you're seeing is because you still haven't added a connector/terminal (J5 I presume) to the 'GND'; you only need one connection, to one of the GND's, and all are connected - but you must have one. This is done
# You also still need to separate the signal and power grounds - they may be connected somewhere else in the amp, but they are separate on the phono pcb, and need to be routed & connected separately. Hint...J6
not entirly sure where/how these would seperated on the diagram
# You're still missing a cap from R411/R413 to GND.
done
# If you're going with SMD, no problem, but if you go discrete, then I'd remove the input inductor; the original pcb doesn't have it, and it'd be a very tight fit on the pcb...
done
# There are circuit problems around the C405 / C407 / C409 junctions, and possibly(?) the Q405(C) / C411 / R419 junction.
Done
# Careful with the component value entries, e.g., R411 = '10m' for me is 10 milliohms, which would be virtually a dead short of the +ve rail to GND. The correct value for R411 is 10 Megaohms, which I'd enter as 10M. I'm not sure how Kicad interprets 'm' versus 'M' ? so it may not be an issue, but I know it treats 'M' as Mega.Changed to 10M

Still getting that one fault.Ive done all the footprints now as well except the pins, how do you assign those?
1731750836183.png



1731750879680.png
 
would suggest:

Delete all of your J connections completely (J2, 3, 4 & 5 are not connected at the moment anyway - note the green dots).
not sure what you meant about the green dots??
im dealing with the other bits as well

1731773901177.png


if i take away the dots, it says they are not connected
1731774637407.png

1731774583451.png
 
J1 is fine - the green dot indicates the branch point to R401 & C426, it's nothing to do with J1

Either follow my suggestion to delete all J's and start them again (I didn't say delete just the dots), or, delete the green wire going to say J2, and add a new wire in the same place but actually connected to the small circle on the J2 symbol. The same for the others. If you can still see those little open circles, they're not connected.