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MyRef_C with Ultimate BOM

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#741
So, basically you have got run out of town on a rail on your answer but just as 1MOR and Troy said, we will help you its just that you are the first guy to not do the research before you started asking questions. That guy, whomever he may be, always gets the treatment 🙂
Read up and ask some questions. Dumb questions are fine if it looks like someone has at least put in the effort to answer it themselves.
Lots of MyRef pics here http://picasaweb.google.com/home?tab=mq
 
#742
As far as more orders shipping:
I now have the rest of the LDRs I needed to continue shipping. I have them in pairs and I need to match those pairs to each other to get quads. Baby tomorrow like I said and cleaning like mad today. I should be able to make my second to last shipping this Saturday. It will be nearly every kit gone by Saturday. If not every kit is gone there might be 3 kits or so that are missing a part I will have to order but I think that I have everything for all except one order.
Uriah
 
#745
jonclancy said:
regiregi22 said:
Thanks Andrew and Regi,

I see the problem now, thanks, but haven't experienced it as I've only used the LDR volco as a separate unit that is always powered up (when using MyRefCs or Arcams). I'll bear this all in mind when I put my latest rig together.

Cheers

Jon
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Have you tried yo left on the power amp and shutting down the LDR attenuator?
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#748
1MOR said:
I think Uriah and friends have gone over the top on this GB. As a newbee of sorts, I always read all the posts regarding a project, refer to the circuit, go over the BOM, and take notes while reading everything. I also do a google search for posts and threads, wherever they may lie. As a result, I am transitioning from a very expensive high end 2 channel stereo system, to a same system of mostly DIY components which exceed the performance of the commercial components which were formerly in my system.

So yes N7XG, read all 1500 posts. And as it has been suggested, if you are not prepared to make the intellectual investment into these projects, you may want to consider purchasing a commercial DIY kit from a vendor, with step by step instructions and check boxes, and an 800 customer help line. I am quite sure that someone will gladly purchase your kit should you choose not to proceed with this project. I am not trying to be negative towards you but, this is the way DIYAUDIO functions.

Ah, the intoxicating aroma of burning electrical components! 😀
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Yes i agree these guys have gone way past the point most would i think you you all should take a step back and let the rest get on with it ,i took diy audio up to learn thats what gives me satisfaction when i get it right not asking other people to do it for me 🙂 regards john (newbee of sorts )
 
#749
I am also a proponent of learning by researching and then doing. Don't think of this group as your mommy or daddy, but rather as friends willing to help when you're in a jam.

On the other hand, if you are still genuinely confused after trying to learn how to do it on your own, DO NOT PUT YOURSELF OR THE EQUIPMENT AT RISK.

You do not need to read every post in any of the referenced threads. You can certainly tell after the first sentence if a post is going to be relevant to what you are seeking.

To all posters here and in the new thread just started: please stay on topic. I know many of you are trying the LDR thingy, but, other than being part of this group buy, that really has nothing to do with My Ref.

Finally, when you're done building, please share your experience and impressions with the group. You don't need a lot of flowery reviewer language to let us know how it sounds.

Peace,
Tom E

Peace,
Tom E
 
#750
All I was trying to ask was for any information that could assist me. Nothing more, nothing less. I have been doing electronics for the past 50 years, can read a schematic and build. Having a check list provides me with a tool to help with the build. On the other hand if all I got was a box of parts and no schematic, or other documents I would be at a loss. I am new to this forum and it is going to take some time to catch up.
 
#753
N7XG said:
..... I have been doing electronics for the past 50 years, can read a schematic and build. ....

....I am new to this forum and it is going to take some time to catch up......
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If you have been doing electronics for 50 yrs I suspect the biggest issue is those new fangled tools called the PC and internet. And EVERYTHING revolves around those!! 😱

The schematic can be printed from the original thread that Mauro started himself. I agree, not much can be done without that so starting there is smart.

Secondly the "original" BOM was an excellent guide to component population. (EDIT: you will have to translate the schematics and original BOM to the new "Ultimate parts" in the kit. But it should be more tedious than difficult.)


Once you have those printed and you look at the PCB it is very easy to follow.

If you need detailed pictures to print and mark up let me know I can break out the camera. Here is pictures of pair 2 out of the 3 I have. You can zoom in on the picture for closer looks:

Picasa Web Albums - troystg - Public audio
 
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#754
LED and R3

I couldn't edit my previous post, so I need to know exactly which two holes are for the LED.

Their are 3 holes Left center right, does the LED go into left and right?

Also R3 in most pictures looks like troystg's a white ceramic resistor,
this build has red boards and a Caddock that looks like the attached picture.
I can not figure out how the included heat sink fits. Please advise.
 

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#755
The heatsink for the resistor points the fins inward and over top of the LM318 so install that first. Then remove the fin that will be directly above the LM318 by bending it. It will snap off in two bends.
LED is polarized just like a cap so look at the caps and notice that the short leg is negative. Now look at the bottom of the board and you will see that two holes go to one trace and one hole goes to another trace. Use the two holes closest together that come from different traces. Plus and minus are indicated on the board.
Uriah
 
#758
1MOR said:
I think Uriah and friends have gone over the top on this GB. As a newbee of sorts, I always read all the posts regarding a project, refer to the circuit, go over the BOM, and take notes while reading everything. .................................................. if you are not prepared to make the intellectual investment into these projects, you may want to consider purchasing a commercial DIY kit from a vendor, ..................... this is the way DIYAUDIO functions.
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A man/woman that could be my disciple judging by the advice to read and learn to understand.
We do not hand it out on a plate.

I, particularly, do not expect Uriah to do all the work. In fact he has already done more than we deserve. THANKS.

For those that need help and/or find problems, then I expect all of us to contribute to the solutions.
 
#759
I just want to be sure

I haven't done this for a few years, so:

reading the value of the three small yellow capacitors C10, C12, C34.

“Usually the first two digits of the code represent part of the value; the third digit corresponds to the number of zeros to be added to the first two digits. This is the value in pf.”


Using that method:

220 is 22 with no zeros = 22pF

100 is 10 with no zeros =10pF

221 is 22 with 1 zero = 220pF

Is my thinking correct?

I don’t want to solder these in and get it wrong.


Thank You
 
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