They could be a reson of weak bass. Before going to expensive Mundorfs i have used with excellent results Panasonics recommended in Budget BOM.
Agreed, The Panasonics equivalent are installed on my beta build and produce excellent results.
Brings up another question. I have four 18,000 uf caps ordered by mistake. It's my understanding the the value of the cap in that position is a recommended minimun. Can something that high be used or will it damage other parts of the amp? If so, dtses is welcome to try them via USPS (~$4.00 U.S)
Brings up another question. I have four 18,000 uf caps ordered by mistake. It's my understanding the the value of the cap in that position is a recommended minimun. Can something that high be used or will it damage other parts of the amp? If so, dtses is welcome to try them via USPS (~$4.00 U.S)
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Bob, atupi,
sorry for being unclear, this was referred to C101 & C201
I'll make another search in the closet, hope there is another pair/ two of spare BCs to make it 4x2200uf per rail.
sorry for being unclear, this was referred to C101 & C201
I'll make another search in the closet, hope there is another pair/ two of spare BCs to make it 4x2200uf per rail.
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thanks Bob, very kind of you 🙂
these caps shouldn't damage anything anyhow, I'm convinced. The surplus value could only affect on bass slowness or make it even deeper alternatively! Anyway, meanwhile I'll try to find some additional BCs and check them first. I have only 24VDC on the rails after rectification, so there should be plenty of options here besides expensive Mundorfs. Moreover I have already ordered more than a month ago ELNAs LP5 that most likely are lost by mighty chinees postage, though still I'm hoping that sometimes the day will come 😀
these caps shouldn't damage anything anyhow, I'm convinced. The surplus value could only affect on bass slowness or make it even deeper alternatively! Anyway, meanwhile I'll try to find some additional BCs and check them first. I have only 24VDC on the rails after rectification, so there should be plenty of options here besides expensive Mundorfs. Moreover I have already ordered more than a month ago ELNAs LP5 that most likely are lost by mighty chinees postage, though still I'm hoping that sometimes the day will come 😀
New chassis arrived!
Bob, Jac... you should feel guilty for making me spend 260€ in HiFi2000 aluminum chassis...😀
I've buyed Pesante Dissipante for the Fremen Edition and Slim Line for the DCB1
BTW, aren't they beautiful?
Bob, Jac... you should feel guilty for making me spend 260€ in HiFi2000 aluminum chassis...😀
I've buyed Pesante Dissipante for the Fremen Edition and Slim Line for the DCB1
BTW, aren't they beautiful?
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They are beautiful and i have plans to order the same from HiFi2000. But why you didn't ordered the front panel already drilled and chemically "repainted" (i dont know the word) ?
I think all you needed was a little nudge to do what you wanted.Looks like it will be a special build. We will be watching.
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Because that service would have added 100-150€ more... not now... maybe in the future.... 😉
The term you want to know is anodized.
I think all you needed was a little nudge to do what you wanted.
Maybe there's some truth...nevertheless you should feel guilty... 😀😉
Looks it will be a special build. We will be watching.
It will take some weeks... not much time in this period and also nicotine abstinence still hurts....
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the one with external heatsinks is superb! I found similar case on ebay and was contemplating to use for the next project - smth from Nelosn's "F" burning amps 🙂
Bob, atupi,
installed another pairs of BCs making it 8800uf per rail, unfortunately same bass issue, very noticeable and poor reproduction...😕
added few pics including my one channel hi-end passive green Alps preamp 😀
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All I can see is your R3 variation. What did you do there? Have you tried alternatives at C13?
You probabllly don't want to hear it, but I always go for the published BOM on all my projects even when I know I will upgrade/mod later. For my JC-2 and Mini DAC I bought the kits plus an extra PCB to use for component adjustments. Those with a higher level of expertise may not have to take those precautions - I do. 🙂
Also, what led you to suspect the SMD resistors were the cause of the hum problem? I still have hum with active preamps on the RC and none on the beta.
You probabllly don't want to hear it, but I always go for the published BOM on all my projects even when I know I will upgrade/mod later. For my JC-2 and Mini DAC I bought the kits plus an extra PCB to use for component adjustments. Those with a higher level of expertise may not have to take those precautions - I do. 🙂
Also, what led you to suspect the SMD resistors were the cause of the hum problem? I still have hum with active preamps on the RC and none on the beta.
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cheers Bob,
I decided to go for DALE 3w 1% 1R resistors (paid 3USD incl delivery for 5pcs) as see no point paying $$$ for Caddocks. DALEs should be definitely better than simple cement ones, so I paralleled them. All in all whether it is Caddock or any other R3, there shouldn't be such huge bass difference as I have now.
yep, reported several pages ago that no difference has been perceived (my goal was only the bass issue) when using 2x0.47uf Wima mkp. Moreover as I read in this thread that these Russian big ones should give even better bass if compare to some cheaper caps.
not much, but when I desoldered my accidentally bought Caddocks and replaced the rest of smd resistors with new ones, then replaced Caddocks with Vishay 1% 0.4w resistors and gave it a test run, I heard no hum at all, then I was very curious could it be the Caddocks giving annoying hum, so placed them back one by one and could confirm now that they are dead silent, so the only guess is that some of the smd resistors could be bad or damaged...
Need to say that neither with Vishay, nor with current Caddocks in smd part bass reproduction didn't change.
Anyway I could only hope that using several Caddocks instead of Susumu could only improve the sound of FE🙂
I decided to go for DALE 3w 1% 1R resistors (paid 3USD incl delivery for 5pcs) as see no point paying $$$ for Caddocks. DALEs should be definitely better than simple cement ones, so I paralleled them. All in all whether it is Caddock or any other R3, there shouldn't be such huge bass difference as I have now.
yep, reported several pages ago that no difference has been perceived (my goal was only the bass issue) when using 2x0.47uf Wima mkp. Moreover as I read in this thread that these Russian big ones should give even better bass if compare to some cheaper caps.
not much, but when I desoldered my accidentally bought Caddocks and replaced the rest of smd resistors with new ones, then replaced Caddocks with Vishay 1% 0.4w resistors and gave it a test run, I heard no hum at all, then I was very curious could it be the Caddocks giving annoying hum, so placed them back one by one and could confirm now that they are dead silent, so the only guess is that some of the smd resistors could be bad or damaged...
Need to say that neither with Vishay, nor with current Caddocks in smd part bass reproduction didn't change.
Anyway I could only hope that using several Caddocks instead of Susumu could only improve the sound of FE🙂
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WOW
Dario,
I feel totally guilty. It's all my fault. I should punish myself severely.
Truth is, I have just enough metal working ability to make something DIY as a chassis and it won't look 1/10 that good. Very Nice!
Jac
Dario,
I feel totally guilty. It's all my fault. I should punish myself severely.
Truth is, I have just enough metal working ability to make something DIY as a chassis and it won't look 1/10 that good. Very Nice!
Jac
What is the center gizmo ? Don't recognize it.
Take a look here.
Sorry but here you're completely wrong, IMHO.
The cement wire resistor is the way to go if you don't want to buy the Caddocks.
Bass performance can be seriously affected by the wrong choices...
Also the Takman REX resistors you used instead of SMD parts can affect seriously bass and timbre in general if used in the wrong direction.
I've tried Takmans on beta boards (both REX and REY) in all positions and none entered the BOM, guess why... 😉
Yes, you should... 😉 😀
As Bob's already indicated, I was only waiting something to decide to buy them... 😉
hi Dario!
will check that on the following week. I would be very happy and surprised if R3 swap will bring the bass to normal level.
thanks, Dario! I've noticed the direction and checked it once more time when you mentioned it several pages earlier giving a link to R10 orientation. Anyway I've already tried metal film Vishay 1% there with no success.
As a designer of FE, would you advice to replace these Caddocks to smd resistors if swapping R3 will not help?
will check that on the following week. I would be very happy and surprised if R3 swap will bring the bass to normal level.
thanks, Dario! I've noticed the direction and checked it once more time when you mentioned it several pages earlier giving a link to R10 orientation. Anyway I've already tried metal film Vishay 1% there with no success.
As a designer of FE, would you advice to replace these Caddocks to smd resistors if swapping R3 will not help?
Which Caddocks? I can't see any in your build...
Do a favour to youself and buy Caddocks MP915 for the regulator, it will make a BIG difference in bass performance.
I would suggest to builders to start with one of the two BOMs (full or 'on a budget') and only after trying different parts so it would be possible to make a comparison to a common base.
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