I've not had much experience of class d but the Sonneteer Bronte tripath amp i had some years ago didn't do it for me and it was not a cheap amp. I'm not good with review speak so i'll just say it was highly detailed, clinical even but uninvolving. I just didn't enjoy the music as much as i did with my class a/b or valve amps. Haven't had another class d amp since.
The my-ref (FE) mono blocks i'm currently using are better imo (and cheaper)
The my-ref (FE) mono blocks i'm currently using are better imo (and cheaper)
I have owned one diy Hifimediy TK2050 and one commercial Fenice TA2024.
The first was good for its low price, but sounded boxy and weak on the bottom compared to My_ref FE.
The second had better soundstage and richer lows than TK2050 (and even better price), but My_ref FE blows it away in mid frequencies and sounds mure natural/organic and tubey, in a positive manner. And it's much more powerful, of course...
The My_ref FE i built had much more hours of burn in last weeks and its quality has increased constantly in time. I'm now quite stunned about how it sounds, given its price level! Very few SS amplifiers i tested can live up to it even in a 10x price tag.
I don't know how Dario managed to achieve this, but please keep on doing it!
I totally agree with this. My-Ref FE mono blocks better anything commercial i have tried up to £1500.00 (this includes several tube amps)
Cheap class D is usually compromised by a poor/weak power supply among other things. I think you would need to try comparing the 'FE' to something like a well built Hypex amp which (would have probably cost much more to build)
I said it before, the only negative i can find regarding the FE mono blocks i'm using is that i don't know what to build next. Whatever it is probably wont be better, just different.
I used your last "suggested best parts" BOM, with some minor differences.
I used 4V PK Blackgates in C9, KP 1834s in C7 and C32, KC1850 in C30, AMCH in C12, Nichicon PW in C1 and C2, Kendeil K01 big cans in C101 and C102 (just as i had 2 spare pairs), Audyn true coppers in C13.
Also used z-foils in R7, R10, R12, R13 and R37 (using your suggested method: it works a charm!).
More: 300VA 22V spare toroids i previously owned; Valab attenuator + Elma switch to bypass it for pure power amplifier configuration; silver shielded signal hook ups; shielded power cables inside; Schurter DENO ground wire choke on earth line. I had to connect chassis grounds to avoid hum, redirecting them to DENO choke right after chassis connection.
I tested it using Monitor Audio Silver S6, Proac D28, Dynaudio Audience and Avalon Opus Ceramique speakers. It sounds a bit less flowing on Proacs, maybe due to their 8 ohm impedence (transformers output 22V, not 24V), but it's still very very good on them too!
You can be assured that i built/rebuilt very good power supplies for both class D amplifiers i tested, replacing original ones - but they were still no match for My_ref FE.
Surely Hypex amps would perform better, but i had no chance to test them.
I forgot: i also tested Nuforce Reference amps (i can't remember exact models) and they were much better than the 2 class D amps i owned. They are from a much higher price level, though... They were closer to My_ref FE, but it was quite some time ago so i am not able to do a reliable comparison. For what i can remember, they were not better anyway, surely not in musicality.
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Unless you will need more power...will you ever need to build another amp? 😉
But audiophiles are rarely satisfied for a long period... 😀
Thanks 🙂
KP1834s are very good caps, particularly for C7.
The KC1850 will sound very good but I would prefer an AMCH.
Very good! 🙂
Can you post some pictures for other builders? 😉
Yup pictures please 🙂
I don't see me building more power amps any time soon. The heat and power consumption of class A tube and SS put's me off, along with the build costs.
Class D - Not for me (so far anyway)
Interesting to hear your impression of the Nuforce amp Luca. Reviewers often seem to fall for the large price tag and masses of detail over musical enjoyment.
I will stick with the My-Ref FE but i would like to try them with some really high end speakers one day though.
I don't see me building more power amps any time soon. The heat and power consumption of class A tube and SS put's me off, along with the build costs.
Class D - Not for me (so far anyway)
Interesting to hear your impression of the Nuforce amp Luca. Reviewers often seem to fall for the large price tag and masses of detail over musical enjoyment.
I will stick with the My-Ref FE but i would like to try them with some really high end speakers one day though.
Has anyone mounted the boards parallel with the heat sinks. If so, what kind of clearness is needed(heat sink height)
I am having an issue with one of my mono amps. These boards are from the first run and am just getting around to finishing them up now.
The issue is that I am not getting -14.6v on this board. I suspected the LM317 as I was getting continuity on all three pins. I removed it from the circuit and it tested fine but put in a new one to be safe. The problem still persists. I am getting 1.25v and -35v across those points. Looks like I need to go hunting for a solder bridge somewhere. The relay does click and the led comes on but after 10 seconds or so the led goes out and the relay clicks again.
The channel that does work is fantastic. Can't wait to get the second running.
I will post pics of the board shortly. I need to get better quality ones to post up. In the mean time if anyone has any suggestions on other checks I would appreciate the advice.
James
The issue is that I am not getting -14.6v on this board. I suspected the LM317 as I was getting continuity on all three pins. I removed it from the circuit and it tested fine but put in a new one to be safe. The problem still persists. I am getting 1.25v and -35v across those points. Looks like I need to go hunting for a solder bridge somewhere. The relay does click and the led comes on but after 10 seconds or so the led goes out and the relay clicks again.
The channel that does work is fantastic. Can't wait to get the second running.
I will post pics of the board shortly. I need to get better quality ones to post up. In the mean time if anyone has any suggestions on other checks I would appreciate the advice.
James
Hi James,
did you take all those:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip...tion-build-thread-tutorial-8.html#post3531423
Hey Buzz, Good to see you here in the FE community
By parallel I assume you mean rotating the LM3886 90 degrees. That appears to require either a whole bunch of lead bending or an adapter which might introduce an unknown factor to the FE design. Dario can comment on that. The addition of an "L" bracket or transfer block does sound like an interesting possibility. I might try that myself.😉
I have built a couple sets that are alternative arrangements based on the lower heat dissipation requirements of the LM3886. Many PC CPU heat sinks are adequate as used in my Mini Build, and a single small piece of stock from Heatsinks USA can handle one or two modules as used in the Monoblocks. So I feel the single module format and low heat properties allow many imaginative mountings.
😀
By parallel I assume you mean rotating the LM3886 90 degrees. That appears to require either a whole bunch of lead bending or an adapter which might introduce an unknown factor to the FE design. Dario can comment on that. The addition of an "L" bracket or transfer block does sound like an interesting possibility. I might try that myself.😉
I have built a couple sets that are alternative arrangements based on the lower heat dissipation requirements of the LM3886. Many PC CPU heat sinks are adequate as used in my Mini Build, and a single small piece of stock from Heatsinks USA can handle one or two modules as used in the Monoblocks. So I feel the single module format and low heat properties allow many imaginative mountings.
😀Attachments
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Thanks for the comments Bob. I like your build. I am at the point where I struggle with buying a case that will work or taking time to make one. Admittedly I have grown tired o f case making.
Your idea has me hooked again
and am now pondering a simple five piece (HS, bottom/front, cover, 2 brackets) stereo chassis based on my monoblocks. I'll post the design and cost in a couple days. It will require just two bends on inexpensive 1/16" aluminum from my local shop. If you like it - could save you some effort. Stay tuned ....
This is the monoblock. For a stereo build the height will be at minimum equal to the width of the FE modules. The depth will have be set to allow mounting up to a 300VA (D=4.8") toroid trani. Power switch and LED mountable on front or back. The width could be expanded to the 17" standard to match other system components.
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