That looks like a momentary switch that will require a switch driver, transformer and a relay. Do you have a link to the posting
Is that a Bulgin? Live would go to the centre of the three connectors with the transformer live to either of the other two depending on whether you want the switch to be on with the button in or out.If you are using the ring led in the switch it can look more effective when the button is out or flush[ it shows more brightly]
I used a similar Bulgin switch with my DCB1 but it it had 6 connections so I switched both the live and neutral.
As AndrewT would say always use a Light bulb tester just in case of errors.
I used a similar Bulgin switch with my DCB1 but it it had 6 connections so I switched both the live and neutral.
As AndrewT would say always use a Light bulb tester just in case of errors.
Link is not working. Copy this one to browser please
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=181155997227
Feel completely noob now
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=181155997227
Feel completely noob now
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Live will go to the Common.Check with your dmm for continuity on the other two from the common.Either will work for the transformer wire it just depends whether you wish the button to be in or out for the on position.I guess normally pushed in for on makes most sense.
Personally I prefer these they save a lot of messing.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/fused-snap-in-iec-chassis-plug-with-switch-218978
Personally I prefer these they save a lot of messing.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/fused-snap-in-iec-chassis-plug-with-switch-218978
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I've got his tester to check amp boards.
Electrical Test Equipment | Quick Test With 1.5m Cable | PAT Testing Equipment, PAT Testers
I guess bulb tester gives better protection..
Electrical Test Equipment | Quick Test With 1.5m Cable | PAT Testing Equipment, PAT Testers
I guess bulb tester gives better protection..
I guess bulb tester gives better protection..
Quick;simple and cheap to make one up and using one has certainly saved my *** on a couple of occasions.
Quick;simple and cheap to make one up and using one has certainly saved my *** on a couple of occasions.
Dario, I noticed you have sold dcb1. May I ask what are you using instead?
I've had two, I've sold the older one.
BTW I'm still trying to make it as transparent as a plain pot... 😉
Now I think I'm near but, as usual, it costs a lot...
I put new q1 and relay is clicking, but probably I have led position wrong.
If it is not critical I d like to leave everything as it is for now, desoldering does not give me any pleasure.
Output value was between 2 and 7 mv and stood approx on 3mv
In the place where value on board says -35 and +35 v I have measured values of approx 23.25 v
Inputs weren't shorted.
If it is not critical I d like to leave everything as it is for now, desoldering does not give me any pleasure.
Output value was between 2 and 7 mv and stood approx on 3mv
In the place where value on board says -35 and +35 v I have measured values of approx 23.25 v
Inputs weren't shorted.
I put new q1 and relay is clicking, but probably I have led position wrong.
If it is not critical I d like to leave everything as it is for now, desoldering does not give me any pleasure.
Fine 🙂
Led is only an indicator (but I would remove it, anyway).
Output value was between 2 and 7 mv and stood approx on 3mv
Excellent values
In the place where value on board says -35 and +35 v I have measured values of approx 23.25 v
Inputs weren't shorted.
Which secondaries values are you using, the other board measure the same?
Yes same. What do you mean by secondaries values? Transformer is r core 24 v secondaries.
I might be measuring wrong 🙂
I might be measuring wrong 🙂
Yes same. What do you mean by secondaries values? Transformer is r core 24 v secondaries.
I might be measuring wrong 🙂
Ok, so something else is wrong with 24V secondaries you should measure circa 34.5 VDC
On the other boards do you have same measures?
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