Please , help with switches.
For on off I need SPST ? 3A ?
For two sources I need DPDT ?
Thank you
For on off I need SPST ? 3A ?
For two sources I need DPDT ?
Thank you
I know the result but I am still going to watch the BBC's highlights starting about now.
Are those Russion in post199 really PIO (paper in oil)?
Are those Russion in post199 really PIO (paper in oil)?
Hi Andrew- according to Russian websites it is aluminium sprayed on paper soaked in ceresin, 1 layer of isolation.
Yes, I am on BBC One now. Hope Mclaren can push a bit higher.
Yes, I am on BBC One now. Hope Mclaren can push a bit higher.
heat sinking question
Hi,
My two monoblocks are running fine on the bench and I'm now planning the enclosure build. The LM3886 mounted on a massive heatsink are cold. R3 without heatsink is not warm at all, but the LM317 are. Is it safe to omit R3 heatsink, and is it safe to let the LM317 running without ?
Thanks,
Hi,
My two monoblocks are running fine on the bench and I'm now planning the enclosure build. The LM3886 mounted on a massive heatsink are cold. R3 without heatsink is not warm at all, but the LM317 are. Is it safe to omit R3 heatsink, and is it safe to let the LM317 running without ?
Thanks,
C13 Cap Options
Will,
No experience with the "z-silver" but Mr. HumbleHiFi thought they were more detailed with more emphasis on treble.
I just finished evaluating the "superior-z" Jantzens as C13 on the FE. In my system, the superior-z caps were thin in the mid-range. They seemed to emphasize the hi-mid and treble area but didn't have as much sparkle or detail as other caps on an FE. The soundstage was collapsed to between the speakers and instrument location was not very defined. They might be a good choice for a piece of equipment that needed help in treble, but I would still be tempted to bypass them for better imaging.
In direct contrast, the K71-4 of the budget FE BOM is far better in my system. The K71-4 has better detail, a wider and more defined soundstage and a warmer, fuller mid-range. That is saying something given the K71 is considered a bit cool in its presentation compared to other caps.
Going back to the z-silver, if the differences described in HumbleHiFi hold true, they would seem to be directionally wrong for the FE, at least in my system.
I will keep the superior-z caps for a time when I need to emphasize the treble.
Now it is on to breaking in the Audyn Plus caps.
Jac
Has anyone had any experience with jantzen z-silver caps?
Will,
No experience with the "z-silver" but Mr. HumbleHiFi thought they were more detailed with more emphasis on treble.
I just finished evaluating the "superior-z" Jantzens as C13 on the FE. In my system, the superior-z caps were thin in the mid-range. They seemed to emphasize the hi-mid and treble area but didn't have as much sparkle or detail as other caps on an FE. The soundstage was collapsed to between the speakers and instrument location was not very defined. They might be a good choice for a piece of equipment that needed help in treble, but I would still be tempted to bypass them for better imaging.
In direct contrast, the K71-4 of the budget FE BOM is far better in my system. The K71-4 has better detail, a wider and more defined soundstage and a warmer, fuller mid-range. That is saying something given the K71 is considered a bit cool in its presentation compared to other caps.
Going back to the z-silver, if the differences described in HumbleHiFi hold true, they would seem to be directionally wrong for the FE, at least in my system.
I will keep the superior-z caps for a time when I need to emphasize the treble.
Now it is on to breaking in the Audyn Plus caps.
Jac
My two monoblocks are running fine on the bench
Fine!
Pics, please 😉
The LM3886 mounted on a massive heatsink are cold. R3 without heatsink is not warm at all, but the LM317 are. Is it safe to omit R3 heatsink, and is it safe to let the LM317 running without ?
R3 has an heatink for safety, just in case someone plays 20Hz sine wave on low sensistivity speakers... 😉
LM317s will never give anything more than the designed current (faults apart) so it will never get hotter than what it runs now, wich is perfectly safe for the part.
At least according my calculation. 😉
Jac, I have been listening to the audyn plus caps that Bob sent me for about a week and I really like them. I had been using the K71-4s for all my previous listening. I have a few impressions of the plus caps, but I need to swap back to the k71s to be sure they are accurate. Having said that, I need a faster way to swap c13. Dario has eluded to his ideas for mounting the caps together with the potentiometer and I think I am going to try somthing similar. I have been throwing some ideas around for the last week or so and have come up with a simple solution. I am going to make a board that will integrate the potentiometer, c13 caps, RCAs and a location for bypass caps. Essentially just another passive pre. For now I am going to build this on perf board with jumpers, fastons for the caps, etc. If this seems like it is worth the time, and I have the time, I will make an atempt at making real artwork to etch a proper board. I have been doing a little research on eagle and diptrace, but this is a ways off. A proper board that could accept multiple brands of potentiometer (alps and tkd) and many different size caps would be convienient, and swapping caps could take seconds. I will post a pic when I get some time to impliment this.

I've often joked about having a switch that would allow swapping caps to match different music styles... but maybe you can pull off something similar for real. I think it could be useful if implemented without adding artifacts. Some classical music really sounds good with the Munforf ZNs.
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Jac, I have been listening to the audyn plus caps that Bob sent me for about a week and I really like them. I had been using the K71-4s for all my previous listening. I have a few impressions of the plus caps, but I need to swap back to the k71s to be sure they are accurate.
Will,
I am in a similar place with the Audyn Plus. I haven't done a comparison yet, but I like them and think that they may be on a similar level to the K71s, that is very nice. Since K71s won't be available forever and can be more expensive (depending on shipping cost), these may be a good addition for a budget BOM. I look forward to some comparisons.
I like your idea for a easy swap mini-pre. I'm sure the point to point will work just fine. Glad you are having fun.
Jac
It is too quite in this thread.
I shall ask something 🙂
1. That is a preferred placement of components within enclosure
2.what to do with the grounding ?
I shall ask something 🙂
1. That is a preferred placement of components within enclosure
2.what to do with the grounding ?
I put an order with audiophonics fr, among the items were 2 toroids. Week after order they got in touch with message: sorry, but our database was wrong , we do not have toroids in stock. Ok, I ask them for discount now on delivery for wasting my time.
I was going to order from selectronics (again, famous for their customer service) r cores but found one company which sells inexpensive ones. Has anybody clue who are they and if it is ok to order traffos ?
I was going to order from selectronics (again, famous for their customer service) r cores but found one company which sells inexpensive ones. Has anybody clue who are they and if it is ok to order traffos ?
If you're going to buy those toroids I suggest you to buy 225VA ones.
BTW not all toroids sound the same, Selectronic R-Cores quality is certain.

BTW not all toroids sound the same, Selectronic R-Cores quality is certain.

That is the thing, Dario !
Cheap does not mean quality...
It just p@@ed me off how well established business can waste time ( I mean audiophonics).
This monday backorder is coming from mouser and I am almost done, only traffo, enclosure, hook up wire (up occ I think) and some other bits...
Reading the grounding now...
Cheap does not mean quality...
It just p@@ed me off how well established business can waste time ( I mean audiophonics).
This monday backorder is coming from mouser and I am almost done, only traffo, enclosure, hook up wire (up occ I think) and some other bits...
Reading the grounding now...
The info I collected suggests that filtering may be benificial with receivers, but not necessary and possibly detrimental with power amps. I have used both and nothing jumps out as a big difference with either. Maybe someday I pay more attention with a strict comparison. I haven't experienced any noise with the plain inlet.
Someone with a scope/lab may be able to give a better report.
Someone with a scope/lab may be able to give a better report.
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I'm running naked and don't see a reason to do it, but I think others have tried it with success. As with your grounding question earlier, there is more than one possible answer and some feel very strongly one way or the other.
I'm running naked ......
Jac, Please put you'r britches on before you get arrested

Streaking went out of style years ago.😀
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Guys, is EMI/RF filter good addition or it is going to drain life out of power amp ?
I don't know, never tried filters on the my_ref apart a simple X rated film cap across hot and neutral.
BTW I think a very good quality IEC inlet (like Furutech ones) is preferrable, soundwise, to a filtered inlet, at least for a power amp.
I don't know why I pay attention to such details but somehow I d like to put better iec inlet... it is something like choosing disc brake colour for car 🙂
Rhodium plated IEC ?
Or this one with no fuse
Rhodium plated IEC ?
Or this one with no fuse
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