I'm sure someone will find it usefull!
On my behalf, I can't say I'll do it - I still have sooo many open projects (and I still have to find a proper location for them) that I think I'll keep with the SS I have, at least I'd try it. BTW, I still have to change the input cap and apply the RevA mod, I still have to order the Caddocks... :|
OK guys. Based on a suggestion by Stream, I have started a new thread for pictures and comments on your completed FE projects. The idea is to generate new interest in the FE and add some buyers to the GB. Please take time to show us your projects.
Fremen Edition My_Ref Amplifier – Completed Projects and Photos
Jac
Fremen Edition My_Ref Amplifier – Completed Projects and Photos
Jac
Hi
it might be useful to motivate why so many of you have taken an interest in this amplifier and continued your refinement for many years!
What's special about other amps?
Comparisons made over the years, etc.
As I said before, I had an old myref that I updated following your work, made many years ago without much care, but I never expected so much quality ..Thanks to all!
I ordered Dario two new fremen edition boards to make another one ..
Thank you Jac, I will also bring my little experience on the new thread
Ciao a tutti
Giacinto
Ciao a tutti
Giacinto
Nice idea. I will let a few others respond on the new thread and see if they take your suggestion or I will add my own. Please add your thoughts and pictures.
New output resistors
I'm finally trying some new resistors for R3, the Mundorf M-Resist Ultra and Vishay-Dale RS-5.
Both interesting and better sounding than the Caddock MP930, better timbre and more detail.
For whom already tried TO247 manganin resistors, any clue for orientation?
I'm finally trying some new resistors for R3, the Mundorf M-Resist Ultra and Vishay-Dale RS-5.
Both interesting and better sounding than the Caddock MP930, better timbre and more detail.
For whom already tried TO247 manganin resistors, any clue for orientation?
Now one of those would be me..
But sorry, no help..
I am ashamed, just put them in..
😕
(have looked, I have put them in the same way as it was for the caddocks)
But sorry, no help..
I am ashamed, just put them in..
😕
(have looked, I have put them in the same way as it was for the caddocks)
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Those RS-5 's are very familiar looking..😉
Thank You for trying. Good choice.
I can imagine how they could work..
Have formed a long term opinion (based on the ATE) , curious of your findings.
Ciao, G
Thank You for trying. Good choice.
I can imagine how they could work..
Have formed a long term opinion (based on the ATE) , curious of your findings.
Ciao, G
OK, so you put them straight according markings.
To sound similar to Caddocks Mundorfs should go reversed.
But I've yet to decide which direction is the correct one, as you put them (straight) they sound more open, 3D and, maybe, 'natural' but they lack a bit of bass, fullness.
Reversed they gain bass and full ness but also a hint of hardness, and sound less 3D.
Usually the fuller, slower and less 3D sounding direction is the right one...but the added hardness doesn't seems right.
Maybe some burn-in is needed.
First impression is they're an easy good sounding choice, they sound musical, natural, full but lacks some detail Vs manganin ones.
Any suggestion about heatsink?
I've put on a minuscule one and they stay pretty much cold.
Dario, it's fantastic.
In the face of the naysayers.
I could have not put better my personal experience.
Yes, the difference between the two is exactly this, wirewound is the all-rounder, and really good sounding choice, very musical.
But the strong hand, grip, detail resolution is coming with the maganin types. And some hardness.
But I am getting always more the impression, based on trying in multiple systems, that this could be part of the 'resolution' and should be solved at system level..
It could be some hidden truth revealed..
At least my path is that one, I keep on resolving other problems, and manganin is getting more 'forgiving'..
In the face of the naysayers.
I could have not put better my personal experience.
Yes, the difference between the two is exactly this, wirewound is the all-rounder, and really good sounding choice, very musical.
But the strong hand, grip, detail resolution is coming with the maganin types. And some hardness.
But I am getting always more the impression, based on trying in multiple systems, that this could be part of the 'resolution' and should be solved at system level..
It could be some hidden truth revealed..
At least my path is that one, I keep on resolving other problems, and manganin is getting more 'forgiving'..
We used different sizes. I am putting small ones, Luca had put big heavy ones with loads of damping grease.
Also 2/3mm copper plate.
In his application I did not perceive not even hint of hardness.
I am putting goop, damping on the legs/board interface too.
Also 2/3mm copper plate.
In his application I did not perceive not even hint of hardness.
I am putting goop, damping on the legs/board interface too.
Ok. One difference. I am getting a very expressed, deep bass response from the manganin resistors. Deeper and more 'raw', as Giacinto would put it.. 🙂
Though it's dryer, quicker, and so maybe giving the sensation of less bass warmth?
Though it's dryer, quicker, and so maybe giving the sensation of less bass warmth?
So the TO247 is 5mm wider and has a 5mm wider lead spacing as well over the Caddock, correct? How much room is there for a heatsink?
While discussing R3, Pete (turion64) recently did a comparison in his system that included my quad resistors, possibly the Isabellahutte, and an Ohmite film resistor that he found. I believe he found the Ohmite worked best in his system. Care to comment on your results, Pete?
Here is the Ohmite info.
588-TNP10SHR330JE
Jac
Here is the Ohmite info.
588-TNP10SHR330JE
Jac
I’m in the process of typing up my build stories for your other forum post Jac but I’ll make some comments. The idea to try the Ohmites came from Jonathan (jwjarch) so I won’t take any credit for it. To first credit Dario, I love my FE Evo A audiophile parts build as you designed it. I wanted to try to see if the “veil” over the music (as someone described it) could be lifted simply by altering the power resistor at R3.
Jac was kind enough to send a couple of blank “quad” boards to me to replicate /construct what he did. I ordered the Ohmites (they are marked as becoming obsolete soon btw) as well after reading Jonathan’s post. Jac’s quads amazingly cleaned up the music coming out of the speakers ( you really should try them just as enlightening experience) but the warmth I loved with the Caddocks left as well, albeit it could just be on my system. Still, the quads are worth a try if you speakers tend to be a bit muddy on the lower end. When I put in the Ohmites (more delicate than the Caddocks but still rated well for how many watts they can handle with a heatsink) the “veil” was lifted in my system! The lightness and articulation was still there but the bottom warmth came back. The Cerefine at C9 was no longer a concerning factor it seemed. The Ohmites don’t really get that warm at the volumes I listen to. I put a thermocouple onto the heatsink (same one used for the Caddocks) and only measured maybe 39C .
I have the Isabellenhuette resistors in hand and figured out a scheme to rig them into a TO-220 space but haven’t gotten there yet. Ohmite sell these snap-on heatsinks (rather big) that are for two chips but I cut them in half and should fit the TO-247 size. You may have to mount the bigger power resistors with the heatsink side away from the 3886 side of the board. There should be a picture a the larger heatsinks mounted on the Ohmites in Jac’s forum post soon.
I’m very pleased with the Ohmites so much so they are mounted in three of my Evo A builds. I’ve placed my order for the new board version however so the larger power resistors have correct mounting onto the boards.
Regards, Pete
Jac was kind enough to send a couple of blank “quad” boards to me to replicate /construct what he did. I ordered the Ohmites (they are marked as becoming obsolete soon btw) as well after reading Jonathan’s post. Jac’s quads amazingly cleaned up the music coming out of the speakers ( you really should try them just as enlightening experience) but the warmth I loved with the Caddocks left as well, albeit it could just be on my system. Still, the quads are worth a try if you speakers tend to be a bit muddy on the lower end. When I put in the Ohmites (more delicate than the Caddocks but still rated well for how many watts they can handle with a heatsink) the “veil” was lifted in my system! The lightness and articulation was still there but the bottom warmth came back. The Cerefine at C9 was no longer a concerning factor it seemed. The Ohmites don’t really get that warm at the volumes I listen to. I put a thermocouple onto the heatsink (same one used for the Caddocks) and only measured maybe 39C .
I have the Isabellenhuette resistors in hand and figured out a scheme to rig them into a TO-220 space but haven’t gotten there yet. Ohmite sell these snap-on heatsinks (rather big) that are for two chips but I cut them in half and should fit the TO-247 size. You may have to mount the bigger power resistors with the heatsink side away from the 3886 side of the board. There should be a picture a the larger heatsinks mounted on the Ohmites in Jac’s forum post soon.
I’m very pleased with the Ohmites so much so they are mounted in three of my Evo A builds. I’ve placed my order for the new board version however so the larger power resistors have correct mounting onto the boards.
Regards, Pete
Wow Pete, thanks, it's a fine heatsink with a nice small size but it has a problem, though.
The spring is made from steel, a high magnetic one from what I've read so for me it's a no-no.
Is there a version with screws?