Hi, First off, great job on the install! I'm on my third Tundra and it seems with each passing upgrade to the interior the constraints get tighter and tighter. You did an excellent job on the install, with the box, the amp "holes", and picking of components. I have been driving a Tundra since 2010 and couldn't agree more that the stock audio from OEM is junk.
I have the JL Stealthbox in the rear with a 1000/1 driving those. In the doors I have Focal seperates up front and MB-Quartz in the back. Seeing that you have the Android Phoenix radio, I got rid of that last year, it will leave you always wanting something that you can't define, but know that something is missing. Keep your eye out for a deal on a Kenwood. It is the answer to the "what" that is missing. When you upgrade to it, you will understand what it is I'm speaking of. However with what you have put together you will be super satisfied with the upgrade over OEM.
You sir should think about opening an install shop or getting your own high end audio store open. You have a talent that I haven't seen in many years and you could be doing something that you love, if you enjoy this type of thing.
Again thank you for the post, I enjoyed the read and seeing that another like minded audiophile wound up going the same route I did.
I have the JL Stealthbox in the rear with a 1000/1 driving those. In the doors I have Focal seperates up front and MB-Quartz in the back. Seeing that you have the Android Phoenix radio, I got rid of that last year, it will leave you always wanting something that you can't define, but know that something is missing. Keep your eye out for a deal on a Kenwood. It is the answer to the "what" that is missing. When you upgrade to it, you will understand what it is I'm speaking of. However with what you have put together you will be super satisfied with the upgrade over OEM.
You sir should think about opening an install shop or getting your own high end audio store open. You have a talent that I haven't seen in many years and you could be doing something that you love, if you enjoy this type of thing.
Again thank you for the post, I enjoyed the read and seeing that another like minded audiophile wound up going the same route I did.
Well thank you guys I appreciate the kind words. As far as systems go this one is pretty tame compared to ones I have had in past vehicles. The one I had in my 96 explorer that I recently got rid of was one of those systems that I took to extremes. Probably one of the best sounding systems I've ever had. This time around I'm trying to keep everything pretty much looking stock without major modifications to the door cards that will bring down the resale value of the truck. Considering the truck cost almost 60 grand after mods I installed I'm not to willing to go cutting up the interior like I would in my prior much less expensive vehicles.
The Phoenix Automotive head unit is not going to work and I've been in communication with the company about returning it. It's to bad because it is a sharp looking unit but there is way to much noise coming through the speakers. There are some things I don't really like about the unit but those things I could live with if I could get it to sound right but I can't. I have diagnosed the problem and determined it to be coming from the radio's low level RCA out puts. Oddly the noise is not present in the radios high level speaker out puts just the low level that I happen to be using. There is two types of noise. When the truck is running you get both noise from the alternator and digital distortion. When the truck is engine off in ACC I get just the digital noise. When I disconnect the RCA's at the back of the unit leaving them connected at the DSP then to the amps that are still powered up just not getting a signal running to them the system is silent both with and without the engine running. The alternator noise I could probably fix by grounding the chassis of the radio to the truck body and by adding a filter (capacitor) but the other digital distortion is not so easy to fix because it is obviously the result of some factory defect. The fact that the system is silent with the RCA's disconnected shows that the rest of the system is installed correctly. Even the DSP is silent which is kind of surprising considering the balls of solder that came tumbling out of the unit when I opened it up. Dayton.........
The JL Stealth box you went with probably sounds pretty good considering how much time in R&D JL puts into developing those boxes. The Focal component sets are pretty popular with Tundra owners I have noticed. They always make a really solid speaker if you can afford them and MB Q's have always been known as really good choice for SQ. I've never used them personally but I've known plenty of people that have and they like them. I imagine it all sounds pretty good.
I will be definitely looking into the Kenwood option as well as Sony. I just need to get the return straightened out first. I don't think they will be giving me my money back because is has been more then 30 days but they better give me an exchange at least. Not that it will probably matter much because I think the defect is in the board layout and unless they have made a revision to the board I don't think anything will change with a new unit. I might be able to sell it though. It works fine if you are just going to use it as a plug and play replacement for the OEM unit without any aftermarket amps.
This is my first Tundra but I can see what you are saying about constraints. It's kind of funny considering how big the Crew Max cab is. It is about the size of a small apartment but the space for installing a system is quite limited. It would have been nice if the rear seats where on sliders like the front seats are. Being able to gain a mere 2 to 3 in's of extra space behind the rear seats would make a world of difference. As it turned out I needed to install 1/4" plate washers at the rear of the seats to kick the seats up and forward a half of an inch to get the backs of the seats off of the subs a bit. Now I just need to make covers for the amp compartments which I will do soon. I noticed during all of the rain we got here in California over the last couple of weeks there was condensation forming on the surface of the amps and that concerned me. So I should get those covers made sooner then later. That will probably be my next update.
Until then cheers and thanks again for the kind words.
The head unit I switched to is the Kenwood DMX-1057. The difference in SQ is amazing. I found a deal on one listed on eBay, otherwise the cost of it would have prevented me from making the purchase. I will keep a lookout for one as I have two other Tundra owners I'm friendly with and they are always on the lookout for deals.
Again I don't know what your area of employment consists of, but you definitely have a future in high end audio design if you should ever choose. I am pretty plugged into the Tundra, figuratively and litterally, so reach out if you ever have any questions, I have all the manuals and the Techstream should you ever need.
Again I don't know what your area of employment consists of, but you definitely have a future in high end audio design if you should ever choose. I am pretty plugged into the Tundra, figuratively and litterally, so reach out if you ever have any questions, I have all the manuals and the Techstream should you ever need.
Thanks. I'm just now looking into Techstream for the truck. I will probably be picking that up soon. I've got Forscan for my Mustang which is basically the same thing for Fords. For work I'm a carpenter/contractor. Here is another thread that shows a project I finished a while back.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...odness-come-check-it-out.384012/#post-6964985
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...odness-come-check-it-out.384012/#post-6964985
So far this head unit will likely be the one I will get to replace the Phoenix Automotive unit.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158XAV9500/Sony-XAV-9500ES.html
I was looking at the Kenwood too but at least at Crutchfield's it is out of stock. I'm not real impressed by the Alpine unit nor the Pioneer. The JVC unit doesn't look bad and it's cheaper but the Sony ES unit has better specs and uses top of the line components plus it has a three year warrantee on parts and labor. Considering the price tag that's good to know. Of course there is almost $500 in additional costs with all of the adaptors, idata links and dash kits that it takes to properly install any of these units and retain OEM functionality.
I need to contact Phoenix Automotive again and get this return started.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158XAV9500/Sony-XAV-9500ES.html
I was looking at the Kenwood too but at least at Crutchfield's it is out of stock. I'm not real impressed by the Alpine unit nor the Pioneer. The JVC unit doesn't look bad and it's cheaper but the Sony ES unit has better specs and uses top of the line components plus it has a three year warrantee on parts and labor. Considering the price tag that's good to know. Of course there is almost $500 in additional costs with all of the adaptors, idata links and dash kits that it takes to properly install any of these units and retain OEM functionality.
I need to contact Phoenix Automotive again and get this return started.
The JVC and Kenwood are actually the same company, so can't go wrong with either of those. Sony builds a great head unit, so you can't go wrong there either. I wanted a knob control for volume and the fact that the Xcelon Recievers had the controls to adjust timing on each speaker is what sold me on going with the Kenwood. I would stay aware from the Pioneer, the interface on the screen is very laggy, so much so that its noticeable while trying to use it. Kenwood also has the Android and Apple Screen Mirror function where you can use the big screen as the display for your phone. Really nice feature that I just recently found out about two months ago. Ebay has some of the Kenwoods listed at $1000 for new with free shipping, but if you're willing to wait for one you can get one for about $800 new. Some people avoid Ebay, and I can understand their reasoning, but I've always had good results if I was willing to put some time into finding the best deal. The iDatalink Maestro RR2 is what I used as the interface as it allowed me to program two functions with each steering wheel control, and the ability to program three outputs to relays for my radar detector, backup lights, and air compressor. But again, the Sony is a great choice, the interface on that unit is very quick.
I think they might but with a 15% "restocking fee". I guess I need to ship it back to them and if they find the same problem with the unit they will cover the shipping if not then it is on me. There was also some damage to the screen I noticed once I pulled the plastic protector sheet off of the screen. It looks like something got caught between the glass and the LED when they bonded them together at the factory. That alone should qualify me for a new unit at their cost.
The volume knob would be nice but since I usually use the volume control on my steering wheel it isn't a deal breaker for me. The Sony unit has all of the same features and controls as the Kenwood does. They are both flag ship models so that is what I would expect but I think the Kenwood has a little bit more with regards to video play back. I have to do a side by side comparison of the two radios and dig a little deeper before I pull the trigger on either one of them yet but those are the two that I am considering as of right now but there is one other Android radio that I have to look into as well. I forget the name of the company right now but I think I saved a link to the radio in my bookmarks. I'll have to check.
It kind of sucks the way car audio is these days. Very few brick and mortor shops anymore. There use to be so many different stores you could go and audition equipment before spending your money. Audio gear is one of those things I really don't like buying on line not knowing what it truly sounds like. I have quite the little collection of gear I bought that didn't end up working with what I wanted. Mostly speakers. Plus I have a lot of gear that I have accumulated over the years that is just taking up space in my storage unit. I think here before to long I will post most of the stuff in the classified section and see if I can't sell some of it.
So what about the Maestro RR2 having the ability to program outputs to relays? What is that all about? Are they controlled with the radio? I'm not sure I understand what the deal is with that.
15% restock ,
Probably normal for most places these days. Given the issues you’ve found they should refund everything. If it were me I’d just bite the bullet. Get as much of a refund as they are willing to offer and move on. Don’t let them just send you a replacement. They imo have already proven their quality control is suspect. And who knows, perhaps some of this is shipping damage related. Whatever the case you are clearly dealing with the wrong people. No offense to you but in the end the difference is at mostly a couple hundred dollars. Don’t worry about it, move on.
Your system is going to be awesome, no doubt.
Best
Probably normal for most places these days. Given the issues you’ve found they should refund everything. If it were me I’d just bite the bullet. Get as much of a refund as they are willing to offer and move on. Don’t let them just send you a replacement. They imo have already proven their quality control is suspect. And who knows, perhaps some of this is shipping damage related. Whatever the case you are clearly dealing with the wrong people. No offense to you but in the end the difference is at mostly a couple hundred dollars. Don’t worry about it, move on.
Your system is going to be awesome, no doubt.
Best
That's the way I have them set up. There are three outputs on the RR2 Module that can be programmed to send a signal, latch a signal, or pulse the signal with the ability to set the time on the pulse. Since the Tundra doesn't have enough room to add aditional switches for everything I wanted to control, this was a solution. Basically you go to the screen in Kenwood that controls the outputs, the outputs latch on the relay signal input, and the relay handles the heavy load to turn on the back work lights, or turn on the compressor, or the radar detector.
This is from Crutchfield's site:
And here is a clip explaining how it works.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=GKZ5cr5Gymw
The Sony unit is able to perform this with the RR2 attached also. What's really nice about it is each output (3) can also be programmed to the steering wheel buttons allowing you to control each of the outputs with the steering wheel or the head unit.
This is from Crutchfield's site:
Command center
The ADS-MRR2 features three programmable outputs which allow you to control relay-driven aftermarket accessories from an iDatalink Serial Port-compatible Kenwood, JVC, Alpine, Sony, or Pioneer in-dash receiver. These outputs can be individually configured to Latch, Toggle, Follow a CAN signal in the car (firmware dependent), or have a custom output configuration, as well as setting Delay On and Delay Off times for each output. You can also assign a steering wheel control button from the vehicle to control one of these outputs. The ADS-MRR2 also features a dedicated port for radar detector integration that allows you to connect to select Escort radar detectors (sold separately).And here is a clip explaining how it works.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=GKZ5cr5Gymw
The Sony unit is able to perform this with the RR2 attached also. What's really nice about it is each output (3) can also be programmed to the steering wheel buttons allowing you to control each of the outputs with the steering wheel or the head unit.
Okay. Thanks for the info. I didn't know anything about that. I just ran a switch to some LED lights that I have mounted in an aftermarket bumper that I installed a while back. Finding a space to install the switch was certainly limited. I want to install some bed lighting pretty soon so that is a feature that might come in handy. Most people just splice into the interior lights that come on when the door is opened but I want to be able to turn on the lights without having to open the door so maybe that will work.
OK. a bit of an update here. The Phoenix Automotive radio is going back for a refund but now there is a 25% "restocking fee". I am seeking a refund and not an exchange. Just be done with it.
Good news is that I will be receiving a brand new Sony XAV-9500ES by Friday afternoon along with all of the iDatalink RR2moduals and harnesses I need for installation. I got the head unit off of Ebay for just a little over $1000.00. Most places where asking over $1400.00. So I got a good deal.
I've also decided to change the DSP unit out. I'm replacing the little Dayton Audio for a Audio Control DM-608 with 6 in and 8 out DSP Matrix Processor that I also picked up off of Ebay for $380.00 new open box. So I got a good deal on this as well. This should all be arriving by Friday and Saturday.
So I had a few things left to button up still on the install besides the head unit such as covers for the "amp wells" I guess you can call them. So I made those.
I still need to get some inserts or "T" nuts and some stainless steal machine screws to attach the covers but that is what it will look like when its done. I still have to tuck those wires under the carpet there so you don't see them as well. I will probably do that in the morning.
I have to say that for the fact that the subs are in such a small sealed box I wasn't really expecting to get the sub extension that I am getting right now. Those two shallow mount 12's are putting out a pretty decent amount of base and they are playing pretty low too. Granted if they where in an optimal ported enclosure I think they would really shine but I'm more then happy with the way they are performing right now. I'm really impressed by them to be honest. They are 4ohm DVC so the two of them running parallel are running at 1ohm which drives about a thousand watts out of that JP8 class D amp I've got them hooked up to and after driving them hard for over an hour playing some pretty base heavy material neither the amp or the subs peeked much above 85 degrease F. Barley warm to the touch. So I would say that I am equally impressed with the Down4Sound amplifiers that I chose to use. I took a chance with a brand that I had never used before and so far they are delivering. I can't wait to get the Sony and the Audio Control put into the system so I can finally break out the microphone and the RTA start doing some tuning. Once that happens I will do a break down of the different components of the system and do a review on each one.
Chow for now.
Good news is that I will be receiving a brand new Sony XAV-9500ES by Friday afternoon along with all of the iDatalink RR2moduals and harnesses I need for installation. I got the head unit off of Ebay for just a little over $1000.00. Most places where asking over $1400.00. So I got a good deal.
I've also decided to change the DSP unit out. I'm replacing the little Dayton Audio for a Audio Control DM-608 with 6 in and 8 out DSP Matrix Processor that I also picked up off of Ebay for $380.00 new open box. So I got a good deal on this as well. This should all be arriving by Friday and Saturday.
So I had a few things left to button up still on the install besides the head unit such as covers for the "amp wells" I guess you can call them. So I made those.
I still need to get some inserts or "T" nuts and some stainless steal machine screws to attach the covers but that is what it will look like when its done. I still have to tuck those wires under the carpet there so you don't see them as well. I will probably do that in the morning.
I have to say that for the fact that the subs are in such a small sealed box I wasn't really expecting to get the sub extension that I am getting right now. Those two shallow mount 12's are putting out a pretty decent amount of base and they are playing pretty low too. Granted if they where in an optimal ported enclosure I think they would really shine but I'm more then happy with the way they are performing right now. I'm really impressed by them to be honest. They are 4ohm DVC so the two of them running parallel are running at 1ohm which drives about a thousand watts out of that JP8 class D amp I've got them hooked up to and after driving them hard for over an hour playing some pretty base heavy material neither the amp or the subs peeked much above 85 degrease F. Barley warm to the touch. So I would say that I am equally impressed with the Down4Sound amplifiers that I chose to use. I took a chance with a brand that I had never used before and so far they are delivering. I can't wait to get the Sony and the Audio Control put into the system so I can finally break out the microphone and the RTA start doing some tuning. Once that happens I will do a break down of the different components of the system and do a review on each one.
Chow for now.
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Attachments
You may want to use a fastener (like the two-piece ball and socket connectors used for speaker grills) that will allow you to quickly remove the covers. in case one amp fails or there is another problem. Even with fuses, amplifiers can flame up when they fail.
I didn't see any fan cooling. Even class D amplifiers can run hot. Centrifugal fans are low-profile and can move a lot of air.
I didn't see any fan cooling. Even class D amplifiers can run hot. Centrifugal fans are low-profile and can move a lot of air.
Thanks. Snaps? Oh those aren't snaps. Those are a dish shaped washer (commonly used in marine applications) with a machine head screw. I drilled and tapped the steal channel that the seats are mounted to so I could secure everything down.
1000 watts is just right for the subs. They won't use it all. The subs are rated at 450 watts I think x 2 and I always like to have a little headroom. Due to the small air volume in the sealed sub box you need to have a lot of power going to them to get strong low base output.
Those attachments for holding speaker grills on speakers is actually a pretty good idea. I hadn't even considered that. I think I might just do that. Thanks for the suggestion.
As for fans, they won't be needed. I put the system through a pretty hard torcher test a couple days ago. I ran it for about an hour and a half at about 80% output with the covers in place. The tracks I was playing where pretty base heavy and compressed (loud). I was trying to put the system through the trials to make sure it would be bullet proof. After playing hard for an hour and a half nothing even broke 85 degrease F. The amps never got hot nor did the speakers.
Update. I now have everything to replace the head unit and the DSP.
The Sony XAV-9500ES. This is Sony's flagship model so I anticipate the sound quality in this unit to be as good as it gets. For the price it better be. The screen has some heft to it and the whole thing feels like a quality piece of kit. So far I'm liking it. I'm going to try and get it wired and installed today. Hopefully it is done raining here and I can get some dry time.
The Audio Control DM-608 DSP. With this DSP I will gain more control of the sound then I am currently getting with the Dayton Audio unit. Plus this one will be completely silent where as the Dayton not so much and it is just a better DSP all together. The Sony has some pretty high end DSP capabilities built into the head unit but it has limited channels otherwise I could just use it.
The idatalink Maestro RR2. Unlike the Android radio that I'm replacing the Sony needs an external module to communicate with the trucks CAN bus so I can retain the functionality and features that are part of the stock radio such as steering wheel controls. This particular version being the RR2 as opposed to the original RR has three programable assignments that can be used to switch up to three external devices such as fog lights or winches. These can be assigned to any one of the steering wheel buttons or buttons on the radio and they can also be triggered by any number of other things such as turning on your head lights or shifting into a gear such as reverse. There isn't much room on the Tundra's dash to accommodate toggle switches so this can be a very useful feature.
Here are all of the different harnesses and adaptors that I takes to hook up the Maestro to the Sony and the Tundra. Figuring out everything I needed was kind of a pain in the butt because their web site doesn't explain things very well. They will list three different harnesses that are compatible with my truck but won't tell you anything about them or the differences between them. You have to really dig around to find that info. I found most of it over on their forum reading through the different threads. But I figured it out.
This is the head unit without the screen attached mounted in the Metra 99-8252 dash kit for the Tundra 2014 thru 2021. It can be used to mount single and double din radios. It looks decent but it is a bit plasticy.
To make sure that the dash kit doesn't rattle I applied some killmat to it. It's much better now.
So that's what I got to replace the Android unit and hopefully get rid of the unbearable noise that made the Android unacceptable. I took some video of the noise coming from the unit to show Phoenix Automotive what the problem I was having sounded like. Maybe later I will upload them to youtube and post the links here so everyone can hear how bad it was. That radio goes back today. It's all boxed up and ready to go. I just need to take it to UPS.
I also picked me up some of these to attach the covers on the amp bays. Should work nicely but they sent me to many of the female ones and shorted me a male so I'm going to need to get more because I'm short one set this way.
Anyways. I'm going to go make some breakfast then get out there and see if I can get this stuff installed in my truck today.
So chow for now.
The Sony XAV-9500ES. This is Sony's flagship model so I anticipate the sound quality in this unit to be as good as it gets. For the price it better be. The screen has some heft to it and the whole thing feels like a quality piece of kit. So far I'm liking it. I'm going to try and get it wired and installed today. Hopefully it is done raining here and I can get some dry time.
The Audio Control DM-608 DSP. With this DSP I will gain more control of the sound then I am currently getting with the Dayton Audio unit. Plus this one will be completely silent where as the Dayton not so much and it is just a better DSP all together. The Sony has some pretty high end DSP capabilities built into the head unit but it has limited channels otherwise I could just use it.
The idatalink Maestro RR2. Unlike the Android radio that I'm replacing the Sony needs an external module to communicate with the trucks CAN bus so I can retain the functionality and features that are part of the stock radio such as steering wheel controls. This particular version being the RR2 as opposed to the original RR has three programable assignments that can be used to switch up to three external devices such as fog lights or winches. These can be assigned to any one of the steering wheel buttons or buttons on the radio and they can also be triggered by any number of other things such as turning on your head lights or shifting into a gear such as reverse. There isn't much room on the Tundra's dash to accommodate toggle switches so this can be a very useful feature.
Here are all of the different harnesses and adaptors that I takes to hook up the Maestro to the Sony and the Tundra. Figuring out everything I needed was kind of a pain in the butt because their web site doesn't explain things very well. They will list three different harnesses that are compatible with my truck but won't tell you anything about them or the differences between them. You have to really dig around to find that info. I found most of it over on their forum reading through the different threads. But I figured it out.
This is the head unit without the screen attached mounted in the Metra 99-8252 dash kit for the Tundra 2014 thru 2021. It can be used to mount single and double din radios. It looks decent but it is a bit plasticy.
To make sure that the dash kit doesn't rattle I applied some killmat to it. It's much better now.
So that's what I got to replace the Android unit and hopefully get rid of the unbearable noise that made the Android unacceptable. I took some video of the noise coming from the unit to show Phoenix Automotive what the problem I was having sounded like. Maybe later I will upload them to youtube and post the links here so everyone can hear how bad it was. That radio goes back today. It's all boxed up and ready to go. I just need to take it to UPS.
I also picked me up some of these to attach the covers on the amp bays. Should work nicely but they sent me to many of the female ones and shorted me a male so I'm going to need to get more because I'm short one set this way.
Anyways. I'm going to go make some breakfast then get out there and see if I can get this stuff installed in my truck today.
So chow for now.
Well this is kind of a bummer. I managed to get the head unit in yesterday but when I fired it up I'm getting the same noise. The thing is I know where it is coming from now. The noise is coming from the secondary air injection pumps. These are two air pumps that pump air into the exhaust at start up and for about 2 seconds at shut off. There is also noise coming from the alternator. SOOOO......Fu%^. I guess I am going to have to filter the power supply. First I will try grounding the radio chassis to the frame and see if that helps any. Will update as soon as I know what to do. Damn it man.