Well, if I had a lathe I'd just whip some up. 😉 Now there's an excuse!
I just like nice hardwood knobs to go with nice hardwood cases. Maple or ash or cherry, nothing exotic. You have a source on 'em Ed, or just facilities to make 'em? 2" diameter is a nice size, 3/4 to 1" deep. Light dome to the top perhaps. To fit 1/4" shaft, probably should have a setscrew as some of the source switches can be quite stiff.
Parts Connexion has some decent knobs.
C
I just like nice hardwood knobs to go with nice hardwood cases. Maple or ash or cherry, nothing exotic. You have a source on 'em Ed, or just facilities to make 'em? 2" diameter is a nice size, 3/4 to 1" deep. Light dome to the top perhaps. To fit 1/4" shaft, probably should have a setscrew as some of the source switches can be quite stiff.
Parts Connexion has some decent knobs.
C
Got the hum to almost nothing lifting earth altogether. One channel was quiet (a little hiss) the other had a bit of the buzz goin still but very quiet. And then I went to change the volume and *zap* a shock and the left side is dead. Of course, this had to happen with earth missing.
My amps auto-switch when there is signal present, and the bad side "sees" signal just turning the X-Bosoz on rather than needing a signal from the source going through.
Back to square zero. Too bad too, 'cause I had been listening way too loud (my wife said she could hear it in her car as she was driving up the street!) and finally getting that major kick in the chest on the bass tracks AND my ears were not crying out in pain much... 😉
So, give up on the whole diy amp thing (entirely tempting) or try again here. I'm guessing it is probably just toasted IRF610's here, but could it be something else?
C
Hi C,
I have been there. I toasted a few set of FETs myself. 🙂
Very likely its just the FETs, but check the diodes(zeners) and VREFs too.
You can't give up.
Just have a beer to stiffen your resolve.
Cheers!
Russ
I have been there. I toasted a few set of FETs myself. 🙂
Very likely its just the FETs, but check the diodes(zeners) and VREFs too.
You can't give up.
Just have a beer to stiffen your resolve.
Cheers!
Russ
Heh.
Well, I think I may order another whole setup, because I've been thinking I want one down in the bat cave to use for building/testing anyhow. We'll see. I'll haul it back down and open it up and see what I see soon. Maybe tomorrow. Work has me worn pretty thin right now so that's some of it. Ok, that's most of it.
I also have to look into the Joshua Tree too, as there's a point most of the way along where there ceases to be any output. I don't need to play that loud anyhow so no big deal but it's just odd, you know? Especially since it's BOTH channels that do this (2 boards, balanced signal after the BOSOZ through it). It didn't used to do this with the old PIC so I may put that back in and see what it does.
What 610 variant are you using? Curious so I can get the right stuff if I place another order with Digikey or wherever.
C
Well, I think I may order another whole setup, because I've been thinking I want one down in the bat cave to use for building/testing anyhow. We'll see. I'll haul it back down and open it up and see what I see soon. Maybe tomorrow. Work has me worn pretty thin right now so that's some of it. Ok, that's most of it.
I also have to look into the Joshua Tree too, as there's a point most of the way along where there ceases to be any output. I don't need to play that loud anyhow so no big deal but it's just odd, you know? Especially since it's BOTH channels that do this (2 boards, balanced signal after the BOSOZ through it). It didn't used to do this with the old PIC so I may put that back in and see what it does.
What 610 variant are you using? Curious so I can get the right stuff if I place another order with Digikey or wherever.
C
When it comes to toasting, I too have been there. What a pain. You might like to check out my recent failsafe PSU post! PSU Thread
Crazy, all those parts are listed on the parts list. Who'da thunk. 
Thanks for looking it up and posting anyhow Brian. 🙂
New stuff should be here Friday. Pulled the FET's today, found an aluminum shaving underneath one - how the heck? But it had poked through the pad, not sure if that grounded that FET or not since the sinks are anodized. Ahh well. The side that went bad is the side that I had already wired backwards for a couple seconds till the 22uF (35v) cap blew. Wired power backwards. So, stupid mistakes work their way back 'round and stuff. 🙂 It still plays, just VERY quiet.
I'll get to add the rest of the inputs and stuff while I have it all apart, which is a good thing to be doing so not really trouble.
I'll only be working about 60 hours this week, not too bad. May push over 70 next week. Ugh. Pays for this mistake a few times over, anyhow.
Now, when're those DACs gonna be ready!
C
Thanks for looking it up and posting anyhow Brian. 🙂New stuff should be here Friday. Pulled the FET's today, found an aluminum shaving underneath one - how the heck? But it had poked through the pad, not sure if that grounded that FET or not since the sinks are anodized. Ahh well. The side that went bad is the side that I had already wired backwards for a couple seconds till the 22uF (35v) cap blew. Wired power backwards. So, stupid mistakes work their way back 'round and stuff. 🙂 It still plays, just VERY quiet.
I'll get to add the rest of the inputs and stuff while I have it all apart, which is a good thing to be doing so not really trouble.
I'll only be working about 60 hours this week, not too bad. May push over 70 next week. Ugh. Pays for this mistake a few times over, anyhow.
Now, when're those DACs gonna be ready!
C
Well, I'm sick of this.
Had problems removing components, pads were peeling off. Managed to get things soldered back in anyhow, fired it up. The hum I used to have problems with is gone, but now there's a nice hum that increases with volume, whether the chassis is earthed or not. Though connecting/disconnecting the earth to chassis while things are all hooked up causes a pop (i.e. heard over the speaker) which doesn't seem right to me. Resistors R1/R2 and R6/R7 on the amp boards are getting hotter than anything else. Smelled something burning while trying it in my stereo, not sure if it was that. Though the resistors may always have heated up that much. Running it on the bench with no amps on the outputs and I didn't get the smell, so maybe it was just some wood dust had settled insomewhere and was burning off initially. I may burn it in some time when I'm bored.
the JT board I went over *again* - still just cuts out completely most of the way up, both sides do this. Yeah, never have the knob anywhere near that region, so it's not that big a deal.
Makes me want to go pre-amp shopping. The cost of this one is starting to get up there with all the grief. More than I want to put into something that hums.
C
Had problems removing components, pads were peeling off. Managed to get things soldered back in anyhow, fired it up. The hum I used to have problems with is gone, but now there's a nice hum that increases with volume, whether the chassis is earthed or not. Though connecting/disconnecting the earth to chassis while things are all hooked up causes a pop (i.e. heard over the speaker) which doesn't seem right to me. Resistors R1/R2 and R6/R7 on the amp boards are getting hotter than anything else. Smelled something burning while trying it in my stereo, not sure if it was that. Though the resistors may always have heated up that much. Running it on the bench with no amps on the outputs and I didn't get the smell, so maybe it was just some wood dust had settled insomewhere and was burning off initially. I may burn it in some time when I'm bored.
the JT board I went over *again* - still just cuts out completely most of the way up, both sides do this. Yeah, never have the knob anywhere near that region, so it's not that big a deal.
Makes me want to go pre-amp shopping. The cost of this one is starting to get up there with all the grief. More than I want to put into something that hums.
C
Check the voltage going to each relay at the step that is getting you the drop out.
I would focus on the controller though since it seems to be effecting both channels. Are you using the JT balanced or SE?
Sorry for your run of bad luck here.
I would focus on the controller though since it seems to be effecting both channels. Are you using the JT balanced or SE?
Sorry for your run of bad luck here.
JT is being used balanced, one board per channel. I'll toss the old PIC in there next time I open it up, see what that does.
Hum only seems to be a problem above half volume at which time it's too loud for most situations anyhow. Will let it play for a while, keep an eye on it in case something explodes...
I think I need a way to adjust the balance a little. Is there an easy place to put a pot that would alter the gain of the BOSOZ stages vs something additional in the signal path?
Is the resistors getting really hot normal?
Half my frustration is unrelated - work is hell right now, I shoveled snow in the rain this morning (talk about HEAVY - totally wiped me out) and I'm wondering if I may be getting sick... Sometimes life just sticks its foot out to trip you and laugh.
C
Hum only seems to be a problem above half volume at which time it's too loud for most situations anyhow. Will let it play for a while, keep an eye on it in case something explodes...
I think I need a way to adjust the balance a little. Is there an easy place to put a pot that would alter the gain of the BOSOZ stages vs something additional in the signal path?
Is the resistors getting really hot normal?
Half my frustration is unrelated - work is hell right now, I shoveled snow in the rain this morning (talk about HEAVY - totally wiped me out) and I'm wondering if I may be getting sick... Sometimes life just sticks its foot out to trip you and laugh.
C
Hi C,
The 3W and 1W resistors will get pretty warm, that is normal.
Been kinda long day here too. Hey if you are feeling like it I have something I would like to send you. No Charge. Email me.
Cheers!
Russ
The 3W and 1W resistors will get pretty warm, that is normal.
Been kinda long day here too. Hey if you are feeling like it I have something I would like to send you. No Charge. Email me.
Cheers!
Russ
Ya should see an e-mail from me.
Hum is a non-issue at the levels we listen. Actually I think there IS none at all. Maybe it's something similar to metalman's experience. I'm hoping. 🙂 Speakers are ~90.5dB/2.83v and big and rarely see playback levels above 80dB. Except when I'm alone. I already recounted how well that went over a few posts ago. :lol: But I suspect a little hum isn't going to make a difference there, as my ears go dead pretty quick so it's always short-lived.
C
Hum is a non-issue at the levels we listen. Actually I think there IS none at all. Maybe it's something similar to metalman's experience. I'm hoping. 🙂 Speakers are ~90.5dB/2.83v and big and rarely see playback levels above 80dB. Except when I'm alone. I already recounted how well that went over a few posts ago. :lol: But I suspect a little hum isn't going to make a difference there, as my ears go dead pretty quick so it's always short-lived.
C
Hi Russ, Hi Brian,
I just checked your site and saw the Twisted X-BOSOZ are out of stock -- will they be available again and if so, how soon?
thanks,
LC
I just checked your site and saw the Twisted X-BOSOZ are out of stock -- will they be available again and if so, how soon?
thanks,
LC
We actually have a few more sets of the pre boards, but are out of the power suppply boards. We are talking about what to do about it. Our other power supplies would both work well.
The TXPS uses a similar zener-shunt regulator, and provides for plenty of filter capacitance (4 - 35mm snap-ins). It uses an off-board bridge, however, and the 30A bridge we usually use seems silly for something that draws less than 1A per side.
The LCPS uses an LM317 in a CLRC arrangement, but we would swap out the standard 1N5819 schottky diodes (40V) for 1N400x and change the 50V caps to 100V (on one side at least). With the current pin spacing, that would mean 4 - 220uF 100V FCs, and the smaller caps (10uF and 22uF) would become 10uF 100V FC. It also uses a trimmer to get just the right voltage, and can do 1A per side.
I plan on testing out the LCPS in this arrangement to see how it sounds, but I am betting it will be fine.
The TXPS uses a similar zener-shunt regulator, and provides for plenty of filter capacitance (4 - 35mm snap-ins). It uses an off-board bridge, however, and the 30A bridge we usually use seems silly for something that draws less than 1A per side.
The LCPS uses an LM317 in a CLRC arrangement, but we would swap out the standard 1N5819 schottky diodes (40V) for 1N400x and change the 50V caps to 100V (on one side at least). With the current pin spacing, that would mean 4 - 220uF 100V FCs, and the smaller caps (10uF and 22uF) would become 10uF 100V FC. It also uses a trimmer to get just the right voltage, and can do 1A per side.
I plan on testing out the LCPS in this arrangement to see how it sounds, but I am betting it will be fine.
xbosoz psu
Brian or Russ or Anybody,
I asked question in a new thread but it looks like more responses in this thread.
Anyway I fired up the psu boards last night and measured +9 and 0 volts (+/- respectively) and then a little smoke!
Not sure what I can check without adding power to confirm my build.
Pathmark
Brian or Russ or Anybody,
I asked question in a new thread but it looks like more responses in this thread.
Anyway I fired up the psu boards last night and measured +9 and 0 volts (+/- respectively) and then a little smoke!
Not sure what I can check without adding power to confirm my build.
Pathmark