Thanks for the response! I have read this extensive thread and saw that it was suggested to use a solvent to clean the pen--I just didn't know if that would melt the plastic or something, and wasn't sure what to clean it with.
I was wondering about actually cutting the entire pen to the desired size and using it as-is for the pivot holder, since it would be pretty solid. But then I was looking at the plastic cone at the end where the ballpoint sticks out, and wonder if the plastic edge (where the ballpoint tube assembly comes out) might bump or interfere with the set screw.
I'll try to consolidate the other questions I have when I get a chance, so as not to clutter this thread too much.
.
I was wondering about actually cutting the entire pen to the desired size and using it as-is for the pivot holder, since it would be pretty solid. But then I was looking at the plastic cone at the end where the ballpoint sticks out, and wonder if the plastic edge (where the ballpoint tube assembly comes out) might bump or interfere with the set screw.
I'll try to consolidate the other questions I have when I get a chance, so as not to clutter this thread too much.
.
penkosey
The actual pen refill is not used (unless it has a metal tube), just the "nib" or ball point and ballpoint holder (on almost all "real" pens these are metal, but some like the ubiquitous BIC and Paper Mates "write bros" stick pens use plastic, these should not be used). If the only suitable thing you can get has a metal "nib", but a plastic tube then it will need to be attached to a piece of metal. The metal nibs are typically maybe a cm or so long.
You could use the pen, but the tube needs to be metal, as above. Then cut the body of the pen shorter by a cm or so , so that the nib end is at least 1 cm from the pen body itself.
dl1000v:
The actual pen refill is not used (unless it has a metal tube), just the "nib" or ball point and ballpoint holder (on almost all "real" pens these are metal, but some like the ubiquitous BIC and Paper Mates "write bros" stick pens use plastic, these should not be used). If the only suitable thing you can get has a metal "nib", but a plastic tube then it will need to be attached to a piece of metal. The metal nibs are typically maybe a cm or so long.
You could use the pen, but the tube needs to be metal, as above. Then cut the body of the pen shorter by a cm or so , so that the nib end is at least 1 cm from the pen body itself.
Don't worry about cluttering this thread. I know it is a little long and some details get lost.
dl1000v:
What you have looks good. The bigger issue is whether or not you want to attach the armboard to the existing turntable or have it free-standing. It seems like many go for a free-standing mount instead of an armboard.Well, I do!
Made a neat solition for the counterweight and pulled some wires in the arm. Still puzzling what the armbase will be.....
I'm progressing........slowly
HI Stew,
In your opinion Which is the best protractor to set up a 12" uni pivot arm with, Iv'e read a little bit about 3 point protractors, (as opposed to a 2 point) but have not found any practical info on them. Do you have any info that might help to make one?
I will over the winter be building a new 319 unipivot using a Bakelite 1.1/4" dis tube that I will cut & shape down to a hexagonal or possibly 5 sided taper ! very retro as a homage to Alfons Mucha.
Lots of details to sort out Not least how to glue or bond Bakelite ?????? Anyone?
In your opinion Which is the best protractor to set up a 12" uni pivot arm with, Iv'e read a little bit about 3 point protractors, (as opposed to a 2 point) but have not found any practical info on them. Do you have any info that might help to make one?
I will over the winter be building a new 319 unipivot using a Bakelite 1.1/4" dis tube that I will cut & shape down to a hexagonal or possibly 5 sided taper ! very retro as a homage to Alfons Mucha.
Lots of details to sort out Not least how to glue or bond Bakelite ?????? Anyone?
protractor
I think that Conrad Hoffman's arc protractors work very well and you can make one specifically for the length of your tone am. For me, it seems that no matter how well I think I have the two points aligned there is still variation along the arc. You can download his arc generator at Vinyl Engine or at least you could when I got mine. It's free. YMMV
Steve
I think that Conrad Hoffman's arc protractors work very well and you can make one specifically for the length of your tone am. For me, it seems that no matter how well I think I have the two points aligned there is still variation along the arc. You can download his arc generator at Vinyl Engine or at least you could when I got mine. It's free. YMMV
Steve
I agree!
However, if that's wrong, then I need to go back to school, because I must have missed a major concept in geometery.
Best Regards,
TerryO
gluing bakelite, and cartridge alignment
Jay,
319?
Er 2 point vs. 3point? or do you mean a single point vs. the locations for 2 null points? Either can work as long as you are accurate.
As far as a protractor goes, I just use a single point type. I align at 66mm from the centre of the spindle. I just plunk the arm down, and move it around on its own base until I get proper alignment. If you were fixing the arm to a specific mounting distance, with a specific overhang, I would use the geometry from an existing design. For example, I think I was initially using the SEAC WE8000 effective length of 306 mm (O/H= 13mm, O/S= 18°), because it is one of the few arms that had a geometry where the O/H was a whole number measurement (13.0mm vs something like 15.2mm) as well as the O/S being measured in whole degrees (18° vs 17.3 °). This is one of the reasons that I left so much up to the end user/maker. It all depends on the dimension from stylus tip to the pivot (which must be measured accurately!). And it must be measured using your cartridge mounted for the effective length. I could draw up a protractor with your exact dimensions and provide you with the distances from the centre of the platter spindle if that might be helpful.
Be careful (as in a prudent amount of caution) so that you do not ruin the Bakelite. Once sanded it cannot be added to if you over-sand any part of it. As far as glue goes it is very tough as Bakelite is a thermoset plastic. I have a little kit that I bought called "Bondic". It is a UV curing resin that comes with the glue and the correct light to set the glue in 5-15 secs (depends on how thick you apply the glue. Problem is that it might not work with Bakelite, but should. Do a search for repairing Bakelite radios. There are a ton of links.
Jay,
319?
Er 2 point vs. 3point? or do you mean a single point vs. the locations for 2 null points? Either can work as long as you are accurate.
As far as a protractor goes, I just use a single point type. I align at 66mm from the centre of the spindle. I just plunk the arm down, and move it around on its own base until I get proper alignment. If you were fixing the arm to a specific mounting distance, with a specific overhang, I would use the geometry from an existing design. For example, I think I was initially using the SEAC WE8000 effective length of 306 mm (O/H= 13mm, O/S= 18°), because it is one of the few arms that had a geometry where the O/H was a whole number measurement (13.0mm vs something like 15.2mm) as well as the O/S being measured in whole degrees (18° vs 17.3 °). This is one of the reasons that I left so much up to the end user/maker. It all depends on the dimension from stylus tip to the pivot (which must be measured accurately!). And it must be measured using your cartridge mounted for the effective length. I could draw up a protractor with your exact dimensions and provide you with the distances from the centre of the platter spindle if that might be helpful.
Be careful (as in a prudent amount of caution) so that you do not ruin the Bakelite. Once sanded it cannot be added to if you over-sand any part of it. As far as glue goes it is very tough as Bakelite is a thermoset plastic. I have a little kit that I bought called "Bondic". It is a UV curing resin that comes with the glue and the correct light to set the glue in 5-15 secs (depends on how thick you apply the glue. Problem is that it might not work with Bakelite, but should. Do a search for repairing Bakelite radios. There are a ton of links.
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To fix or not to fix..... The armbase. Well, due to the lack of space on my Technics TT, and the possibilty to use it on a renovated Lenco L75. I opt for a free standing armbase. The height adjustment for on or beside the deck will be the trick. And an armlift is still spooking around my brain, i refuse to make to make a good sounding tonearm out of spare and by an armlift for €50. Not my style!
Keep on the good work, Mark
Keep on the good work, Mark
Latest Version
Hi Everyone
Been a bit quiet of late-lots to do at work and in the house-I hate replacing silicone sealant in a shower!
Here are some pics of my latest arm. Let me know what you think.
Regards
Chris
Hi Everyone
Been a bit quiet of late-lots to do at work and in the house-I hate replacing silicone sealant in a shower!
Here are some pics of my latest arm. Let me know what you think.
Regards
Chris
Attachments
9 inch variant ? any ideas ?
Hi Folks ,
Went back reading this thread .. so many projects .. so little time
Thanks for all the great reading stuff so far . now here my question :
I'm having a bunch of very delicate high compliant MM / MI carts here that would realy benefit from as low as arm mass as reasonably possible .
Any ideas about a 9 inch convert ? please chime in
TIA
Paul
Hi Folks ,
Went back reading this thread .. so many projects .. so little time
Thanks for all the great reading stuff so far . now here my question :
I'm having a bunch of very delicate high compliant MM / MI carts here that would realy benefit from as low as arm mass as reasonably possible .
Any ideas about a 9 inch convert ? please chime in
TIA
Paul
I can't see the problem Paul. Just shorten the rod and balance it with a somewhat lighter couterweight...
Regards