No, you don't have the right answer. Trace each lead back to its origin and mark them.
Bob, its usually me that screws up and makes assumptions, but we cannot assume anything in this case.
Seems like you are lucky not to have exploded one or more of your filter caps. You may have damaged one bank.
You should have two wires that you want to connect to the bridges connected to the Ground bus. One will connect to the negative side of one bridge, the other to positive side of the other bridge. IFyou followed the red positive and black negative convention AND you have a black and a red wire connected to the ground bus, you MAYhave it right, but we need to verify that.
We also need to verify that the pairs of wires you have at each bridge correspond to separate connections.
In short, Do what Bill says. Find out which wire goes to the negative cap terminal, which the positive and which ones to ground. Label accordingly.
Connect the two ground wires to the bridge terminals - connect on to one a positive and one to a negative. With your meter's black lead connected to Ground, verify that you have + and - voltages on the remaining terminals and report back.
Something just struck me - you once mentioned left and right bridges. Are we talking about a mono block or a stereo amp?
BTW, There is obviously something messed up with your amp. We are trying to help you find the problem. It doesn't help us much if you give a partial answer to what we ask you to test and assert that you have it right. Sure, this is an early step, but your oddball, inconsistent measurements and imprecise reporting don't inspire confidence. We will continue to help if you are willing to go through it in an orderly fashion with us. Be specific about what you measure.
You should have two wires that you want to connect to the bridges connected to the Ground bus. One will connect to the negative side of one bridge, the other to positive side of the other bridge. IFyou followed the red positive and black negative convention AND you have a black and a red wire connected to the ground bus, you MAYhave it right, but we need to verify that.
We also need to verify that the pairs of wires you have at each bridge correspond to separate connections.
In short, Do what Bill says. Find out which wire goes to the negative cap terminal, which the positive and which ones to ground. Label accordingly.
Connect the two ground wires to the bridge terminals - connect on to one a positive and one to a negative. With your meter's black lead connected to Ground, verify that you have + and - voltages on the remaining terminals and report back.
Something just struck me - you once mentioned left and right bridges. Are we talking about a mono block or a stereo amp?
BTW, There is obviously something messed up with your amp. We are trying to help you find the problem. It doesn't help us much if you give a partial answer to what we ask you to test and assert that you have it right. Sure, this is an early step, but your oddball, inconsistent measurements and imprecise reporting don't inspire confidence. We will continue to help if you are willing to go through it in an orderly fashion with us. Be specific about what you measure.
To be safe, I wouldnt have him reconnect anything until he verifies the origin of all four wires. There is a chance that he could wire both banks backwards and blow everything up.
That is 100% positive that I have it correct, going to open chassis to take some photos.
Sorry about this , I just mounted bridges to left and right chassis panels and yes it is a mono block amp.
This could be very easy if you would just follow our directions.
Now you are saying everything is correct when in a previous post you said that both black wires went to the ground from the neg bridge terminals, which they should not. Have you changed them? Are you sure you are not about to explode all of your filter caps?
Now you are saying everything is correct when in a previous post you said that both black wires went to the ground from the neg bridge terminals, which they should not. Have you changed them? Are you sure you are not about to explode all of your filter caps?
an ex. left bridge. V+ to V+ cap. V- to 0 cap.
right bridge. V+ to 0 cap. V- to V- cap.
in other words. one V+ and one V- will go to cap 0(ground)
and the bleeders will go V+ to 0, and the other one 0 to V-. not in series from V+ to V-
right bridge. V+ to 0 cap. V- to V- cap.
in other words. one V+ and one V- will go to cap 0(ground)
and the bleeders will go V+ to 0, and the other one 0 to V-. not in series from V+ to V-
For now if you can reach your capacitor bank and ground without disassembly just use the continuity function of your meter to verify connections and label them.
Does your other mono-block work? Could the cap bank pictures been of that one, and this one has an issue?
Edit:
This is why Bill and I are getting frustrated - Here is a case where you are being ambiguous and /or inconsistent. Rather than just say the connections are correct, tell us what they are.
Does your other mono-block work? Could the cap bank pictures been of that one, and this one has an issue?
Edit:
This is why Bill and I are getting frustrated - Here is a case where you are being ambiguous and /or inconsistent. Rather than just say the connections are correct, tell us what they are.
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How could you possibly know that the left bridge is for the V+ bank without seeing it in person or knowing where the wires run to?
No, it is not. If he does it wrong, both banks will be hooked up wrong. That's why we need to know where the wires originate.
I do see your point, but he will get in more trouble if he continues guessing.
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is this so damn hard to understand????? it do NOT matter if one use left or right bridge for V+ as long as the other bridge is wired the opposite way!"!!!
Well, then you tell me which of the two red wires dangling in his amp goes to the positive cap terminal. He won't tell us.
Now you are making assumptions that he knows it matters.
Now you are making assumptions that he knows it matters.
But, since JPDuarte has been so ambiguous about what wire goes where, specifying his right and left without knowing what leads he has there may lead him to miswire it. Let's wait until he verifies the connections before we tell him anything. Remember that we are not dealing with an experienced builder, what is easy and obvious to us doesn't seem so to him.
JP - the last time I blew up an output stage I was absolutely sure that the fets were matched to within .01V Vgs that I couldn't understand why it blew until I pulled it apart and saw that I had ignored the .1V place on the Vgs label meaning that one device turned on .1V lower than the rest and was taking all the current. I'd been so careful. I also color coded the PSU leads I soldered to my first Leach amp boards. Three of four channels worked fine. One kept instantaneously blowing up the limiting resistors in the rails. After many hours of troubleshooting verifying every value and part orientation, I finally noticed that I had reversed the power supply leads. Swapped them and the amp has worked fine for over 10 years.
The point of this is when trouble shooting assume nothing is correct. We cannot see your amp, so you have to carefully tell us what we ask for.
JP - the last time I blew up an output stage I was absolutely sure that the fets were matched to within .01V Vgs that I couldn't understand why it blew until I pulled it apart and saw that I had ignored the .1V place on the Vgs label meaning that one device turned on .1V lower than the rest and was taking all the current. I'd been so careful. I also color coded the PSU leads I soldered to my first Leach amp boards. Three of four channels worked fine. One kept instantaneously blowing up the limiting resistors in the rails. After many hours of troubleshooting verifying every value and part orientation, I finally noticed that I had reversed the power supply leads. Swapped them and the amp has worked fine for over 10 years.
The point of this is when trouble shooting assume nothing is correct. We cannot see your amp, so you have to carefully tell us what we ask for.
Here are more photos, I hope they can show you clearly how it is connected. Right wire is red connected to gnd bus and left wire is black to - caps.
Are these the wires paired to connect to one of the bridges?
Ambiguity alert - I hope that you don't mean right and left bridge. I took this to mean that the black wire on the left in this photo connects to the negative terminal of the cap bank and the red wire on the right in this picture connects to ground.
Also, verify that the black wire leading to the negative cap terminal connects to the input of your filter => Black wire - C L CC - output
Ambiguity alert - I hope that you don't mean right and left bridge. I took this to mean that the black wire on the left in this photo connects to the negative terminal of the cap bank and the red wire on the right in this picture connects to ground.
Also, verify that the black wire leading to the negative cap terminal connects to the input of your filter => Black wire - C L CC - output
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what the hell are you talking about? i gave a description of how the wires goes if its correct. not how it is wired.
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