ported would go down to 60hz with bit of EQ boost I guess. 8 drivers can take load of EQing without going into distortion.
Hart audio uses lots of small bass drivers in the rear of their speakers, and some (octagonal fronted) ones look well cool. If you had aperiodic damping and a little boost bellow resonant frequency, would the high f3 matter? 8 drivers (per side) per side could handle a lot of power. Surely the main limitation of small drivers is their small x max?
Sometimes, before deciding to do something, one could ask himself why does nobody do it successfully this way. I know some have a gene that forces them to do things different, just to do it different. In loudspeaker building anything has been tried. There are quite some usable multi driver columns that work, but build with carefully selected chassis, not some random, colorful China stuff, cheap on sale at Amazon.
These drivers are unable to reproduce any low frequency. Also, if something is offered very cheap, it might be because it is cheap crap. Like these drivers.
A short look at the provided data makes me reject them. The data do not seem realistic to me or the drivers are junk. Maybe both.
These drivers are unable to reproduce any low frequency. Also, if something is offered very cheap, it might be because it is cheap crap. Like these drivers.
A short look at the provided data makes me reject them. The data do not seem realistic to me or the drivers are junk. Maybe both.
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If you use multiple small full range drivers, you'll have the advantage of the cone brake up of a small cone, but the cone area/sensitivity of a large one, plus of you use caps to bias the treble to one driver, you have the beaming (or lack of it) of a small cone, all without the phase issues of a crossover, or the change of dispersion from a cone bass driver to a dome tweeter. The best speakers avalible may by cone bass/mid, dome mid/treble with complicated crossovers, but for someone enjoying a bit of diy (like myself) multiple cheap Amazon drivers is a practical solution. Yes, I have "the gene" that makes me want to do things differently, I'm not going to say that it's the best way, but I'm just curious to try it. Perhaps it would be cheaper and better in the long run to invest in some decent drivers and build ONE well engineered design from a respected designer, instead of multiple weird things, but coming up with weird ideas for speakers keeps my mind occupied in an otherwise dull, monotonous life.
There are drivers that can be used for such a collum. They need to have the parameters to deliver some bass, so you can equalize them. Because of the multiple cones you end up with an acceptable low end.
On the other hand, if the driver has no bass at all, you can not equalze it. 18 times 0 gives zero (bass).
The usual way to get such small drivers deliver is a vented cabinet. If the driver parameters are 100% not reflex cabinet capable, they disqualify.
Just one point about these Amazon drivers, they have a 20mm voice coil. No way to equalize the sh*t out of them.
On the other hand, if the driver has no bass at all, you can not equalze it. 18 times 0 gives zero (bass).
The usual way to get such small drivers deliver is a vented cabinet. If the driver parameters are 100% not reflex cabinet capable, they disqualify.
Just one point about these Amazon drivers, they have a 20mm voice coil. No way to equalize the sh*t out of them.
I found 9 x 4" had no bass, even equalized.
Should have been equal to cone area of a 12"..............
Granted, qts and Fs made for much higher F3...........
Not that this pertains, but I find a double 18 had better bass below 100hz than 4x12" (had same total sd x Xmax), same crossover, same location... I think it made a better air fan (2 x 18's) than a bunch of smaller drivers...........
Should have been equal to cone area of a 12"..............
Granted, qts and Fs made for much higher F3...........
Not that this pertains, but I find a double 18 had better bass below 100hz than 4x12" (had same total sd x Xmax), same crossover, same location... I think it made a better air fan (2 x 18's) than a bunch of smaller drivers...........
That's good. So much gets missed because of those that assume everything has been done, and play it safe.
In any case, it is fine that you use a separate sub arrangement to fill your bass needs. Subs don't need to be in the same location as the mains and in fact, a line array isn't going to do the same for them as the mains.. so it's an opportunity.
This thread is about this chassis
https://www.amazon.in/Grandale-17E-Full-Range-Woofer/dp/B09QKQRC9F
not about the principle.
To me the data provided at Amazon look very questionable.
Don't trust a response curve or TSP data you did not fake by your self...
Whatever "different" you do with it, there are much better ones to pick in a speaker system using multiples of identical drivers. There will be no audible bass under 90Hz.
If you use it DSP'd with a sub woofer, that is something different.
https://www.amazon.in/Grandale-17E-Full-Range-Woofer/dp/B09QKQRC9F
not about the principle.
To me the data provided at Amazon look very questionable.
Don't trust a response curve or TSP data you did not fake by your self...
Whatever "different" you do with it, there are much better ones to pick in a speaker system using multiples of identical drivers. There will be no audible bass under 90Hz.
If you use it DSP'd with a sub woofer, that is something different.
He is using 8 of them for low, that could squeeze out some more lows with EQ, 40Hz seems feasible...
I would make massive line array with this speaker like wesayso did (25 driver line array)
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ers-a-25-driver-full-range-line-array.242171/
He wants to use 8 per line, 4 for bass, 2 for kids and 2 for highs.
I made a small 9-driver line with 3" drivers, and if pushed lower than 80Hz with EQ, distortion was audible.
I would buy one or two drivers and test it out, before buying 50 drivers of unknown origin.
Where 25 drivers help out in the low end,
20 drivers work together to do the mid frequencies,
10 play up to about 7 kHz,
and 5 do the top end.
What's the x-max of this single driver?
xmax is 4.5mm
https://www.grandaleaudio.com/grandale-g-7/
this driver is used in LA similar to two towers!
https://www.grandaleaudio.com/grandale-g-7/
this driver is used in LA similar to two towers!
I doubt they will be similar to the Two Towers.
They were (and still are!) a labor of love, blood, sweat and tears.
No commercial product could replicate them and make money!
There's not much info on that driver, nor that company.
I'd be wary...
They were (and still are!) a labor of love, blood, sweat and tears.
No commercial product could replicate them and make money!
There's not much info on that driver, nor that company.
I'd be wary...
hmmm...now I have 2 x 4" and they give plenty of bass. I mean, one seas 12 RLY per side, only. The speaker is a little on the high $$ side, more towards 100 than 50 $, but it's worth it. Now in a lazy configuration on bookshelf without mid and tweeters to make some listening because they're always packed, and it's nice! no horror break ups from aluminum cone...well, listening to the radio < 1 W
So What are you saying ?
That your expectation of bass is different than mine.
I used 4" drivers in the TABAQ, a MLTL, and it does give out a nice impression of bass. I love my TABAQs, and for a small room, it is often enough. But it is not "bass" as, let's say what 25 drivers would put out, or dual 15" or 18" woofers.
There's a limit of how much air a little 4" cone can push around.
I don't think I would enjoy a little 4" driver in a small bookshelf other than background kitchen/elevator music. 🙂
I used 4" drivers in the TABAQ, a MLTL, and it does give out a nice impression of bass. I love my TABAQs, and for a small room, it is often enough. But it is not "bass" as, let's say what 25 drivers would put out, or dual 15" or 18" woofers.
There's a limit of how much air a little 4" cone can push around.
I don't think I would enjoy a little 4" driver in a small bookshelf other than background kitchen/elevator music. 🙂