Hi Christian
Do not take my comments all to serious. I am no expert, just to be clear.
I have followed Synergy/MEH builds on diyaudio for many years, collecting inspiration and knowledge. I do not have my own experience yet.
BUT I am in the proces of building a pair of 80x60 degrees horns approximately 130x 95 cm in dimension, to be placed in my room-corners. I have come up with a design that allows me to experiment with replaceable "driver-boards", to be able to change drivers and positions. I will start my own Thread when I have something to show.
It is a bit of a marathon/mountain-climp to get my MEH´s build, it takes so much time/thoughts!
Happy experimenting
Steffen
Do not take my comments all to serious. I am no expert, just to be clear.
I have followed Synergy/MEH builds on diyaudio for many years, collecting inspiration and knowledge. I do not have my own experience yet.
BUT I am in the proces of building a pair of 80x60 degrees horns approximately 130x 95 cm in dimension, to be placed in my room-corners. I have come up with a design that allows me to experiment with replaceable "driver-boards", to be able to change drivers and positions. I will start my own Thread when I have something to show.
It is a bit of a marathon/mountain-climp to get my MEH´s build, it takes so much time/thoughts!
Happy experimenting
Steffen
how are you cutting these they look very precise ? with a router or cnc ?
interesting design, I don't see why it shouldn't work to have two chambers. I guess your mill is only 3 axis so you cannot make angled holes as per the pk sound design? it may also help to randomize the tweeter side holes size and position (within constraints) such that any error is distributed over position and frequency.
Hi Steffen
Wood is no problem... aluminum ist possible, but not so easy because of missing experience 😉
Yes, same problem here 😉
Yes, i have a "small" cnc router 😉 Its diy (not by myself) and i have a working area of ~45cm*45cm 😉
Wood is no problem... aluminum ist possible, but not so easy because of missing experience 😉
Hi Kipman
Randomice is a good idea... will try to figure out, if i can do that with Fusion 360... it's just a hobby 😉
Yes... but maybe later on i can try to reactivate my 3D Printer 😉
My hope is to have enough holes, that its not realy working as a chamber but at the samte time, tweeter is not disturbed.
Randomice is a good idea... will try to figure out, if i can do that with Fusion 360... it's just a hobby 😉
Strange
New version, but not really a big difference:
Blue: old verision
Red new version
Green: new version but different place in the room.
In generell it look not so bad, because the raise is, because the Horn starts loading. My hope was, that maybe the drop at ~105Hz would change.
Any idea, what i could try here?
Yellow: tweeter removed. So i have some reflections from the tweeter, but that doesn't seem to be that bad. But still no change in the 100Hz region.
New version, but not really a big difference:
Blue: old verision
Red new version
Green: new version but different place in the room.
In generell it look not so bad, because the raise is, because the Horn starts loading. My hope was, that maybe the drop at ~105Hz would change.
Any idea, what i could try here?
Yellow: tweeter removed. So i have some reflections from the tweeter, but that doesn't seem to be that bad. But still no change in the 100Hz region.
Maybe it is "simply" a resonance of the Horn.
It is only ~5mm thick.
When i knock the horn i get the feedback of the peak curve!!!
It is only ~5mm thick.
When i knock the horn i get the feedback of the peak curve!!!
Hi Christian
You can try to hot-glue some plywood-ribs on the classfiber-horn to tame/move the resonances!? Hot-glue is pretty strong if you use enough of it. And the ribs can be removed again.
Steffen
You can try to hot-glue some plywood-ribs on the classfiber-horn to tame/move the resonances!? Hot-glue is pretty strong if you use enough of it. And the ribs can be removed again.
Steffen
I had some Alubutyl left... not that much, but it seems to be the right Track 😉
Yellow without Alubutyl
Red with Alubutyl!
Yellow without Alubutyl
Red with Alubutyl!
Strange
3 Inlets:
Frequency response Tweeter:
I thoght the small holes would be the best... but, the 30mm round is the best 😉
3 Inlets:
Frequency response Tweeter:
I thoght the small holes would be the best... but, the 30mm round is the best 😉
Response of the Bass. Independent of the holes, almost some frequency response.
Red (small holes) is without alubutyl!
Red (small holes) is without alubutyl!
I have also a pair hf HR6040.
The big question: maybe the better choice?
https://products.electrovoice.com/binary/HR6040A EDS.pdf
Every comment is welcome 😉
The big question: maybe the better choice?
https://products.electrovoice.com/binary/HR6040A EDS.pdf
Every comment is welcome 😉
6.026 inches = 2250 hz. This is sort of close to the 17cm distance from the throat, if this is still correct. 17 cm = 6.69 inches.
What frequency is the dip? ( red trace ) - of the tweeter alone.
The closest I can estimate is around 2250 hz looking at your trace.
The closest I can estimate is around 2250 hz looking at your trace.
„ What frequency is the dip? ( red trace ) - of the tweeter alone.“
First picture is tweeter alone, with the three different inlets.
Second one the 5“ alone with the different inlets.
Color of the trace: color of the inlet.
First picture is tweeter alone, with the three different inlets.
Second one the 5“ alone with the different inlets.
Color of the trace: color of the inlet.